Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Wow, I’ve done goodwill repair on cars even up to 85k with Nissan still paying for a part of it. Well, this code isn’t one that can get fixed with a valve body cause I didn’t see any TSB’s. If it needs a trans, it needs a trans. I’ve been with Nissan now for 10 years. And I have 3 cars at work that are in line to get trans replaced, and 4 more waiting for approval. Goodwill didn’t help the person with 168,000 miles, that one is customer pay and waiting if the customer wants to do it.
Okay, if the Juke isn’t much over 5 years old, and now only just past the mileage of the 5year 60,000 powertrain warranty. Best bet is call nissan customer help line. They will say you need to bring it to a Nissan dealer, and might be responsiable for the diag at first. Say got it, bring the car to the local or the one you like the most to have it looked at. If something big is found, like the trans needs to be replaced. have the dealer or you can call back and say why is a car just outside of 60month/60000mile needs a trans. If they say yeah, that’s bad and say they will cover the whole thing, or maybe a percent of it. Dealer might need to talk to the regional person above. Nissan might goodwill the trans. No cost to you or if they cover a percent, much smaller bill then you paying whole out of pocket.
that pressure sensor is located in the cvt valve body. Is the Juke under 60k? that might be covered under powertrain warranty.
rear wheel bearings don’t need to have play to make a howl/growl noise when loaded on the road at a certain speed.
if a bearing in the trans has gone bad, a fluid change will do nothing. it’s rebuild/replace the cvt
Since you said it’s AWD, locate the noise and only fix what you need. I forgot to say before that even the center drive shaft for the AWD has a carrier bearing and even that can make noise all the time at a certain speed.
Not sure why you removed the knuckle to removed the wheel bearing. It’s remove tire, brakes, axle nut, and then the 4 bolts off the back and hit the wheel bearing with hammer and replace, finish with reinstall of removed parts.
yes if you move the knuckle off the shock you could have changed the alignment, on a factory car alignment will not cause wheel bearings to wear/growl.
Are the tires cupped in any way?
Are you sure the noise is from the front, the rear wheel bearings are just as…cheap as the front and growl just the same. I’ve replaced rear wheel bearings on Rogues before.
If you can, get all the tires off the ground, turn the car on, turn Traction control off…Slip or VDC off. and spin that Rogue to find and pin point the noise. Not saying it’s even a wheel bearing. If AWD you could have a bearing in the t-case going out, or even if front wheel drive you could have a final drive or reduction bearing making nose in the CVT
I tend to replace both cam and crank sensors on the older 2.5’s at work since both are important for many things in terms of Nissan. Can’t say I’ve seen many stuck open injectors on the 2.5, car will run on 3 cyl. Stuck open injector most of the time will result in a lot of white smoke out the tail pipe and rotten egg smell cause it’s melting the cat, flashing SES light also the hinting at cat damage.
Evap leaks of any kind will not cause starting issue, since that is only to remove stored fuel vapor when at cruise down the road.
pulling plugs will show if one is over wet with fuel, smells like fuel, could be injector. so pulling those is a good idea like said already.
when flooring the gas pedal, the car is in clear flood mode like you said, and is running on basic good settings to start. poor idle could be a bunch of stuff, like air leaks in intake, exhaust, mass air flow, cam/crank sensor, bad ecm grounds, list goes on.
last thing is yes, I will need to look but a ecm update could be out for that car. I know many early 2.5’s had updates for a number of reasons, that would need to be at a nissan dealer to update the ECU. also if the cat is broken down, I’ve only heard of it, the particles of the cat can get in the engine and cause damage…
I’ve cleaned around the throttle blades at work on Nissans. 90% after the clean it needed what Nissan calls it, an idle air relearn. Factory scan tool can do it and maybe a few very high end none factory can. See if Honda can do something like that, or the first person that was going to fix it needs to do it. Hope you didn’t mess with that screw in the throttle body, those are factory calibrated when made and are not to be moved.
If it’s not working in active self test or the IPDM E/R test, that will do low and high speeds. The Z has 3 relays that control the two fans. Two 40amp fuses. Check fuses, swap relays. If no change, maybe wireing or maybe bad fan. Can also check cooling fan operation when you turn the A/C on.
Sounds a little like an exhaust leak. you have some injector noise like most if not all MR/HR engines do. Only other thing would be get a scan tool on it and drop one cylinder at a time to see if it’s with one, none or all. I don’t like the that intake, hard to drop a cylinder yourself since it’s over the injector and the coil packs. When you snap the throttle will it change? go away or worse? on accel or even when the engine is slowing back down?
yeah had a AZ “new” alt on a Murano with a dim and sometimes flashing batt light on dash and it was the Alt. Went with a reman from a different place and worked amazing. Both new and reman would be fine and voltage at batt was 14.2-14.3V.
Most of the time cats just don’t die, unless they fall to bits. If fixing the P0420 make sure to give it a tune up if it’s due. My 2000 had called for copper plugs and had a random miss and a P0420. Tune up and a little seafoam in the gas tank it cleared all and ran amazing till the bearing locked up at 253k miles.