[ed k]

there are 2 different types of coolant that toyota has used, the red and the pink

the red was more of a standard coolant and the pink is a long life coolant they have used in newer toyotas since the 2000’s

zerex asian coolant is fine to use, just make sure you get all the old green crap coolant out

[ed k]

i’m leaning towards the new calipers being defective…… could also be the brake hoses as the other user mentioned or parking brake adjustment

i recently did a brake job on my xB and did have some minor issues with the rear brakes; the boot around the piston was binding up a bit and the inside pads had slightly uneven wear, i think the previous installer didn’t line up the notch on the pad with the dimple in the piston

enjoy your xB they’re great cars

[ed k]

i’ve looked a little bit and i’ve seen a them go for roughly $50

i’m a bit wary using a salvage part since it seems to be somewhat common on this car (though not as bad as some cars such as the chrysler vans)

[ed k]

you will have to have the ABS codes pulled from the computer; some auto parts stores will scan your computer for engine codes for free, if they have one of the nicer scanners and know how to use it properly, they should be able to pull your ABS codes

it is most likely a wheel speed sensor

the traction control and ABS systems are connected so the ABS system having an issue will cause the traction control system to be disabled

[ed k]

if the compressor is cycling rapidly then the system is either overfilled or undercharged with refrigerant

electric cooling fans should come on when the compressor is engaged, however i believe that truck uses a mechanical main fan

[ed k]

if there was no refrigerant in the system to begin with, there is a leak

if you used 3 12oz cans then you put in 36oz, that van takes 53oz when empty

i would add UV dye to the system and see if you can find the leak…… if you find the leak have the system evacuated, fix the leak (replace the drier too since you are opening the system), then have the system vacuumed out and recharge

[ed k]

looks like surface rust to me on those rotors, perfectly normal

for brake noise i would take off the caliper and put some anti seize or syl-glide on the edges of the pads where it sits in the braket; also make sure the slides pins are lubed properly with silicone paste or syl-glide

[ed k]

i’ve seen quite a few of these vans with this issue, i would do a google search on this, i found a ton of info on this issue

[ed k]

I would take the car to the dealer if it has not been aligned yet. Every time i have had an alignment done at any place besides the dealer it has not been perfect….. honestly i don’t think the guy from firestone knows what he’s talking about with adding shims or a camber kit. I just looked up the suspension setup on the nissan cube, its the same setup as my scion…. the rear is not adjustable, its just a solid beam axle with trailing arms…. on the front the only thing you can adjust is the tie rods and maybe the struts if the bolt holes allow that.

If there really is anything wrong with the car the dealer will tell you when they go to align it then go from there.

[ed k]

you probably have at least 1 bad synchro in the transmission

i don’t know of any ways to check for it off hand, other than have a transmission shop look at it

most likely the transmission will have to be replaced or taken apart and have the worn out parts replaced

[ed k]

if you choose to do this job, the thermostat replacement on these vans is pretty easy, its located under the ignition coil with 2 bolts holding it on….. i believe the bolts are 12mm if i remember correctly

be sure to bleed the air out of the system correctly with both the front and rear heat turned on

i would check the water pump for leaks and lower metal rad hose extension for rust as these are both common failures on these engines

[ed k]

thanks for the reply….. if it was your car what parts would you replace? i just want to get an idea before the dealer starts blowing smoke up my a**

[ed k]

flywheel is the original and was resurfaced when the clutch was done

not sure if it matters but the clutch they put in was a “TRD” clutch that has a “25% increase in clamping force over stock, with minimal pedal pressure increase”

from the factory the transmission takes 75W90 gear oil, one of the times i took it back they put in a different type of fluid (apparently toyota recommended it) but not sure the type or weight….. its not on the invoice and i remember it was a fluid i have never heard of before and ive been working auto parts for over 5 years

[ed k]

*update*

after driving it a few days i’m having mixed results…… the “gritty” feeling is almost completely gone as well as the “chattering”…. however something doesn’t quite feel right with the clutch…. not sure exactly what it is or how to describe it but its not right

I did the “handbrake” test on it again and passed perfectly (3rd gear) so the clutch is not slipping

i’m starting to contemplate whether or not I should get the clutch replaced now or wait until it really goes…… I called the dealer and they want in the range of $1.3k – $1.5k to do the job depending on which parts it needs……. i can tell you i don’t have that kind of $$ available at the moment

however, i know a mechanic who could do the job only costing me labor and i can buy the parts myself…… he is a top shelf mechanic and used to work for Honda just like ETCG lol…….i used to work for a retail auto parts store so i used to sell to him quite a bit, he wrenches on cars at nights and weekends for extra $$……. he replaced the transmission in my camry for only $250 so i imagine he would probably charge roughly the same for my clutch job (if its the weekend i’ll even help) i’m seeing clutches go for less than $200 for my toaster and i was also thinking of replacing the flywheel and i saw one for $100….. so all in it would cost me roughly $500-600

i can still drive the car perfectly fine as it is, however i don’t know if it will get better or worse…… i like to fix things on my car before they go such as brake pads and even the transmission in my camry….. i knew it would go at some point so i had it replaced before it left me stranded……… it worries me that the clutch could take a crap on me and would force me to take it to the dealer or some other shop i don’t know and get screwed…… i also work in aftermarket “crash” parts now so i don’t really see my mechanic anymore so if i wait until it really goes down the road he may be less inclined to do the job or charge more $$

i am thinking of having one of my mechanics drive it to get their opinion before i do anything, but what do you guys think?

thanks

[ed k]

*update*

i ended up buying a tube of syl-glide and greased up the pivot point of the slave cylinder to the clutch fork and got as much of it on the fork itself that my fingers could reach

suprisingly it worked, the ‘gritty’ feeling in the pedal is much less than it used to be

the chatter is also reduced but its been warmer lately and that may be helping

thanks everyone for your help

[Author]

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