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+1 on the coil pack
i would also try a good fuel system cleaner, that may help. otherwise could be faulty fuel injectors if the coil doesn’t fix it
it sounds like an engine issue, but i would also also check the engine mounts to rule out the “shaking”
as advised, i would pressure test the system you should be able to find the leak. some leaks do not show up until the system is under pressure. you can rent a coolant system pressure tester from advance for free (with deposit)
those vans are notorious for various coolant leaks at different points, i would check:
radiator and hoses
metal pipe that attaches the lower rad hose to the engine – always rusts out
water pump
heater hose assembly behind engine (metal and rubber hoses)
metal coolant pipes to rear heater core
fittings for pipes to rear heater corei would also check the cooling fans on the radiator. my mother has this exact same van and i noticed a humming noise and vibration when the fans would run. it turned out that the original fan blades cracked over time and eventually the fan blades flew off their mounts. i picked out chunks of fan blades when i pulled them off
the dealer has had the car all day and i’ve been anxiously waiting. after a bunch of tests, looking things over, and calling toyota the shop foreman found that that a pin in connector for the ECT sensor needed to be “repinned” and one that a pin on the ECM had the same issue. they fixed it and said everything came back as working properly. they will keep the car overnight to let it get really cold then test it again to make sure it’s good
thanks everyone for your help and input
i discovered a body water leak near the driver side A pillar this morning, so on to the next repair :silly:
i took the car into the dealer this morning, i will let everyone know the outcome
on my way into the dealer the car warmed up just fine and the blue “cold” light turned off within a few minutes as it’s supposed too. after a bit of driving the “cold” light actually came back on even though the car was fully up to temp. it did this a few times when driving and when stopped at a light as well….. when stopped once i started driving again it would turn off.
based on this i’m guessing it has to be some type of electrical issue. i would think possibly air in the cooling system as well but i know i properly bled all the air out after the repairs
it is a 3 wire sensor
hmm, i never thought of that i just assumed the circuit had power since the coolant temp lights do work. i’ll check the fuses tomorrow
i did some research today and did find 1 person on a forum with a toyota yaris (same engine as the xb) and they had a simular issue and the dealer threw some parts at it (thermostat and ect)….. the forum went dead and was inconclusive as to the issue or fix. at least it has happened before
thanks for the reply, i have verified that there is only 1 coolant temp sensor for this car
there are 3 different types depending on the build date and i had the toyota parts guy verify that it is the correct part to the VIN
bad news, the computer set the same code again
i replaced the thermostat and coolant temp sensor with OEM parts (both parts were a slightly different design than the aftermarket i put in before), i checked the wiring and connector, cleaned the connector with some CRC electric cleaner, cleaned the MAF, and disconnected the battery while i did the work (about 45 mins)
i filled it up with fresh coolant (i have been using zerex asian coolant so no issues there), ran the engine, and bled the cooling system. it came up to temp with no issues. i tried to drive it as much as possible the past 2 days to let all the systems become “ready” so i can get the car inspected. (it is my friends car so he takes it to work, he also knows nothing about cars).
i drove the car to work last night and i noticed the blue “cold” coolant light was staying on….. i had the heat on low and could feel the car come up to temp normally but the light just stayed on. when it does this it also locks out 4th gear (overdrive) until the light shuts off. it did this for 10 mins or so (the heat was nice and toasty) then the blue light finally turned off….. of course not 2 seconds later the check engine light came on. i drove the car back home this morning and the “cold” light stayed on for a few minutes but turned off so this seems to be an intermittent issue. i dont know how often it has done this since i dont drive it all the time.
i don’t think there is much more i can do at this point, i don’t have the tools (volt meter/power probe ect.) or skill set to mess with the electronics on this car so i will have to take it to the dealer. i’ve been a parts guy for a number of years after thinking about it, the only possible issues i can think are happening are something with the engine computer or perhaps an issue with something in the cooling system or maybe a wiring issue. this car has a number of miles on it and most of the parts on it are original, he has had the car for a year and had a bit of a hard life before he owned it….. it runs and drives great though, and i have put a bunch of parts to get it in good shape…. if it was something like a bad water pump or radiator i could understand that, but the car is “over cooling” according to the computer so who knows. the only other difference about now vs. a few weeks ago is since the weather changed the heater is being used instead of the a/c. the “temp selector” is cable driven and dont believe this car has a heater valve, i’m pretty sure the coolant is flowing through the heater core all the time.
i will try to get my hands on a scan tool to see the coolant temp from a cold start. i was doing some research and it was pretty much saying the computer is looking at the air temp along with the coolant temp and it expects the engine to warm up within a certain amount of time….. i believe the this engine takes the air temp reading from the MAF so i will clean that along with my other repairs. one other thing that i thought was odd is when i called the dealer he mentioned there were 3 different types of coolant temp sensors depending on the VIN so perhaps the aftermarket one i used is for a different production date and it is not working properly
i will be replacing the thermostat and coolant temp sensor tonight (OEM) i will let everyone know the outcome
thanks for the input
for cooler weather it is better to use “thinner” oil; the 2AR-FE engine was designed to use 0w20 synthetic from the factory i would stick with that. all car makers do cold weather testing on their new cars/engines
in a pinch you can use 5w20 but the manual states that 0w20 synthetic must be used for the next oil change
i used the “cheaper” stant thermostat (only one available at the store, it is a different design than the OEM) and a bwd/intermotor temp sensor
the light came back a few days after i replaced the sensor so now i am stumped
my next step is i am going to replace the thermostat and coolant temp sensor with OEM, it is possible maybe the engine does not like the aftermarket parts (i had a camry that i had used an aftermarket PCV valve on and it was not happy it)
i am also going to disconnect the battery just to let the computer “reset” itself.
this should be unrelated but for a long time the car had a “small evap leak” after having a shop check it i replaced the purge solenoid, the light came back on with the same code so i had them smoke test it again and they found the charcoal canister leaking so i replaced that. i mention this because the issue with the cooling system fault showed itself a few days after i finally got the evap leak sorted
it sounds like the dealer disconnected the battery when they did the recall work; it is very common on the gen 5 camry’s with the 2AZFE engine to idle roughly when the battery has been disconnected for an extended period (30 mins or more if i believe) i used to own an ’06 camry and it did this. its odd that i own a ’10 scion xb with the same engine but i’ve never had an issue with the idle (although it is a newer version of the engine and a manual transmission)
all of the service you have listed should help the engine run better, i would disconnect the battery when this work is done; it may need to “relearn” to idle properly again but it should smooth out quicker…… if it does not i would take it back to the dealer and have them check it out
how many miles are on the car? are they the original pads and/or rotors?
if the rotors are below the minimum thickness then they should be replaced….. if they are rusted then they should be replaced. if they are within the thickness spec then they may be able to be machined
rotors are not too expensive for an xB if you buy them yourself, having a shop do the work will result in paying the “list” price on everything
not sure how the car safety laws are in your country but in the US side airbags have been required in all cars since the late 2000’s; typically it consists of a front seat mounted torso airbag and curtain airbag that deploys downward from the roof….. some cars also have torso rear side airbags
i have noticed in some newer cars a frontal impact will deploy the side curtain/torso airbags along with the front airbags to keep you from hitting any hard structures inside the car
my best advise would be to secure the dog in a proper dog restraint