Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
I wouldn’t call me close-minded. I came turbo from factory, my block is designed and engineered for turbo and so is all my electronics. Why bother going a different route? However, I am fabbing up a compound turbo build (turbo feeding turbo) to play with.
@Third Gear, I don’t, I send my oil out once or twice a year for a UOA to check the health of my engine. I will probably do one before the end of the winter and post it up. Right now I have barely 600 miles on this oil change, so it’s not time yet, lol.
Also, I use strictly Red Line fluids for transmission, transfer case and rear differential. I swear by them, and not only do I swear by them, but the performance transmission builder for my particular car of choice (you may have heard of him his name is John Shepherd) recommends it as well. So do the other transmission rebuilders for my car of choice.
http://www.sheptrans.com/faqs/index.htm
[quote]What gear oil should I use?
There are several gear oils that will work depending on horsepower or intended use. For most transmissions we recommend Redline MT90 or Pennzoil Synchromesh. For drag use or high horsepower cars please contact us. Please let us know if you need any Redline gear oil.[/quote]http://www.teamrip.com/manual_transmiss … _info.html
http://www.teamrip.com/transfer_case_hy … _info.html
http://www.teamrip.com/rear_axle_hypoid … _info.html
I’m only trying to resolve the maintenance aspect of things on the car. The EGR valve will be removed in the future for really unrelated purposes. The car is being built for track purpose and will be running e85 and tuned through what amounts to a full engine management system ( http://www.ecmtuning.com ) to avoid any issues with detonation or pulling timing. Our EVAP system is very large and goes underneath the engine and poses multiple vacuum/boost leak points to chase down. By removing the system, I allow myself significantly more room. I understand fully what everyone is saying about the EGR and I agree on a normal daily driven pump fuel powered vehicle it serves no purpose to remove it. Let’s move away from that for a second.
I am more concerned with the EGR as a source for a post-throttle body vacuum leak that is pulling in additional air. The Mitsubishi Service Manual and other resources list the EGR as an item of interest to check. I don’t want it to be the EGR, because I don’t want to replace something that I will be removing in the future. I also am not concentrating on that item right now. I am more convinced the problem is the FIAV which is why I have a new throttle body on the way (as well as need shaft seals, biss and biss o-ring and new throttle body gaskets) for me to rebuild. I just don’t have time to devote to the car to really give updates on the issue (only work on at as a project at school for credit right now).
Here is where I have gone for this in order and what my next step is:
– Boost and vacuum leak test (resolved some common small ones).
– Pulled the ISC and checked the coils, one was bad.
– Replaced the ISC, screws and o-ring for it.
– Replaced the BISS and it’s o-ring.
– Used the Solus to put the ISC in a fixed position and adjust the BISS (only able to idle it down to 1000 and fast idle and surge still exist).
– Tried to adjust the throttle stop to get it into range. No luck, so adjusted it back to stock specifications.
– Boost and vacuum leak after reinstallation of throttle body and intercooler piping.
– Checked CTS to ensure proper operation.
– Checked both O2 sensors.Next up:
– Rebuild used throttle body with verified good FIAV, including new seals and gaskets.
– Obtained an original metal BISS rather than the new plastic ones Mitsu sells.
– Re-adjust TPS to factory specifications.
– Use Solus to set idle again.Depending on those results, I will begin to look into the EGR as it is the last post throttle body possibility. The MAF checks out good, but I used a confirmed working one from my 98 GST just to be safe.
Quoted From dreamer2355:
Yup, alot of people seem to think removing the EGR is beneficial. The inert gas that is reticulated back into the engine is actually COOLER than the cylinder temperatures.
I know there is no performance gain benefits from it, but there is the benefit of keeping the unburnt fuel from caking on your intake. Plus the EGR fumes are still much hotter than intercooled air (which a good intercooler should bring back down to around ambient). The main benefit for removing it, is removing a common component that fails.
I utilize ECMLink v3 in my car so timing isn’t an issue, I control all of the timing and fuel tables.
Right now I am thinking it is my FIAV. I have another TB on it’s way to me and am going to swap that in and see if it resolves the issue. I will let you know the outcome.
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
It does sound like a situation where your getting too much air at idle, it’s not a good idea to adjust the throttle stop however as this will offset the TPS and possibly not send a signal that the throttle is closed so make sure you get that back to where it was and that the throttle can close fully as I’ve seen throttles not adjusted correctly causing this very problem. BTW the TPS should read .5v or less at closed throttle and over 4.5V at WOT. If you don’t find a mechanical issue then you might consider resetting the system by disconnecting the negative battery cable and touching it to the positive for about 5 seconds, this should reset the computer and put things back to the base settings. Lastly you might want to check the operation of the PCV system as this can sometimes cause issues that act like vacuum leaks. Good luck and keep us posted.
Thanks Eric for the tid bits. I haven’t been able to get back here since posting (or even working on the car for that matter) and have a new symptom to report, the car is bogging down at 3000+ RPMs and, particularly under boost. I believe this indicates that I have a new leak in the system. From deduction I know it can only be at the throttle body where the upper intercooler pipe bolts on or at the coupler on the other end of it, since that is all I removed to replace the ISC. I ordered another BISS and o-ring, so I am going to go ahead and pull the throttle body again, pull the bottom off, clean the FIAV and replace the BISS and o-ring another time. From there I will be re-adjusting the stopper to factory specifications (which from what I am reading is to adjust the screw until it just touches the plate and then an additional 1 1/4 turns).
I believe my new issue is unrelated, and here is what I think is causing it.
The previous owner replaced the factory upper intercooler pipe with an aluminum one. Unlike the factory and some more quality kits, the flange portion to the throttle body is very thin. I believe that because of this, the head caused it to warp (based on a visual inspection as well) and it is no longer sealing against the throttle body properly.
My original issue I am leaning towards EGR or the FIAV is worn out. I really hope it isn’t the EGR because I planned on eliminating it after inspections, so I would like to not need to spend a $120.00 for one day of use, but it is what it is. I will also check the PCV system, I didn’t even think of that, goes to show you what experience is worth, thanks for that call. I do have a new PCV anyway, so one way or the other it is getting replaced.
Because this is a heated throttle body, I also have to consider my CTS. Since I finally worked a deal to go finish my certificate at school, I will be looking it over tomorrow. Hopefully with some positive results to report back
I’ve done a boost leak test, which I thought would cover the possibility of vacuum leaks as well, but I didn’t check the fuel trims was pressed for time (was at school and it was their Solus and the school was closing). From what I understood though, that since this is a MAF style car, if there was a leak after the MAF it would cause the opposite issue which is low idle.
And no on the ISC %, the way it works for this car is the Solus holds the ISC at a fixed position while we adjust.
I don’t have a “least favorite car” just “least favorite car owners.”
I guess if I had to pick a least favorite car, I would pick VWs.
I am a little confused here. Fortunately, I have experience with this, lot’s of experience. I manage both SMF and vBulletin forum sites.
I assume when you say that the software is window based, you mean that the server it runs off of is Windows baseed? Otherwise it looks like you may be referring to .NET framework which is similar to active server pages, which is what is being used here. However, there should be some sort of backbone software that was installed for the forums. If we could know what that software is, we could find free add-ons to suggest and/or even make our own add-ons for your review.
The forum softwares available range from free to expensive. Some that can be considered free:
Simple Machines Forum (SMF) http://www.simplemachines.org
phpBB3 http://www.phpbb.com
Some of the better softwares, the ones you will find on the large internet communites are (but do have a cost):
vBulletin ($200.00 plus depending on the package.) http://www.vbulletin.com
IPBoard (Also $200.00+) http://www.invisionpower.com
—
Please let me know if there is anything I can do to help. I do actually have a lot of experience with this. Here is a vBulletin forum site that I am putting together for public consumption soon>
Also here are some ASP based forums with a lot of the functionality that the members are speaking of. They should be compatible to switch over to quite easily.
My car came factory with synthetic, it’s a must for turbocharged applications. It came with Mobil 1, since Mobil 1 has no shame in who they offer stupid low prices too to spread their product all over there in some vain attempt to claim superiority. Load bearing tests of Mobil 1 has shown excessive wear when compared to other oils. Of course Amsoil always receives outstanding marks and I also have no problem using Castrol., Quaker Sate, Valvoline, Red Line, Brad Penn, etc. They all do very well on UOAs.
However, my best experiences come from using Royal Purple, the UOAs are always excellent and their claims of micropolishing are true, I have a picture to prove it from my 98 GST.
My current 99 GSX came with horrible lifter ticking, the previous owner used nothing but Mobil 1. I simply switched to Royal Purple and with-in a few hundred miles the ticking became virtually non-existant. I have a before video, will go out and take an after video and then post them.
Here is the picture of the head from my 98 GST I bought it with 30K miles on it, switched to RP immediately and used it until 110K miles, when I parted it out. I subsequently kept that engine and put it in another car that is still running strong to this day at nearly 200K miles.
Ok well I can’t find it so I have to upload it again and post it when I find it on my other PC.
I think what the OP is speaking of is a dedicated board, where each member can make his own thread per car. This usually leads to people doing progress logs with tons of pictures (which I admit to having a weak spot for and love reading).
I would personally love to see that.
Here we go.
http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/1640/2 … 702538.jpg
