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Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
A parasitic draw test is where we need to start, that way you can isolate the affected circuit. You will need a DVOM with settings for amp readings. I hope to make a video on this but here are a couple of links to videos to give you something to start with.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ho5oEwSPWCA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yFCT-YZb … re=related
I did do that I know the only fuse that kills the parasitic draw outside the amp is number 11 on the engine bay fuse box which controls a multitude of circuits. If you plug that fuse back in, and start pulling fuses in the car, it doesn’t kill that draw (except for the amp).
Let me try to simplify this.
Total parasitic draw on the car is 2100 mA to be approximate.
Car specifications say draw should be 20 to 50 mA. If I pull the amp fuse under the dash I eliminate about 1500 mA of that draw, bringing me to about 600 mA. If I pull any other fuse in the car, the draw does not decrease more. If I go to under the hood and pull fuse 11, it kills all draw brings is down to 0 mA of draw, so I know it is on that circuitry.
So I began pulling components from there. When I pulled the CD changer plug I lost about 350 to 400 mA of draw. When I pulled the radio plug I lost about 200 or so mA of draw, which brought me down to 27 mA of draw, well with-in factory specification. Battery also hasn’t died since.
I know the AC switch was not causing the draw, because up until I crossed the amp power and ground (which killed power only to the AC switch and amp, everything else still works) it was still plugged in on the 27 mA draw test.
I know that the AC switch and the amp run directly from fusible link 2 the AC switch harness (a 1 wire harness dedicated for the switch) and to fuse 1 under the dash which controls only the amp.
I know the radio and CD changer run from fusible link 2 to fuse 11 under the hood and then into the main body harness where they split into the dash harness and the rear car harness. So fusible link is the only constant for all 4 systems.
Let me know if you need any other clarification, I will do my best.
I am not going to lie, Fast and the Furious got me in a DSM, it also got me called a ricer a lot for talking like I knew things when I didn’t. That motivated me to learn and eventually go to school for it. The move still reminds me of a good time in my life and that whole new excitement around import tuning back then is something I cherish and long for in ways.
Since it came out in 2001 I have owned a total of 9 DSMs.
I know this isn’t good, but I did my best to give a simplified harness based on the FSM.
Welcome from a fellow Rhode Islander…assuming you mean smallest state by the books since they don’t count our many small islands towards our total area.
I am not going to lie, Fast and the Furious got me in a DSM, it also got me called a ricer a lot for talking like I knew things when I didn’t. That motivated me to learn and eventually go to school for it. The move still reminds me of a good time in my life and that whole new excitement around import tuning back then is something I cherish and long for in ways.
Since it came out in 2001 I have owned a total of 9 DSMs.
The radio does go to the CD changer by way of a second DIN style adapter, and the radio is suppose to control power to it, but I doubt there is a problem in that line since draw at CD changer exists with that second DIN unplugged.
The State of Rhode Island and the Providence Plantations
Seems excessive.
I am not going to lie, Fast and the Furious got me in a DSM, it also got me called a ricer a lot for talking like I knew things when I didn’t. That motivated me to learn and eventually go to school for it. The move still reminds me of a good time in my life and that whole new excitement around import tuning back then is something I cherish and long for in ways.
Since it came out in 2001 I have owned a total of 9 DSMs.
I am assuming this is a GM engine, 3100, 3400?
The code is coming on because you have the fuse pulled. At this point you really need to get the system checked out, even if only for a diagnosis. I don’t even mess with ABS since I don’t have the equipment. Since I currently am doing mobile repairs, I have turned down 4 or 5 ABS jobs because it is not worth messing around with blindly, due to the nature of importance the system holds.
I have an Actron CP9175 and it is really good. I am thinking about upgrading to one that can capture live data, but otherwise consider this a thumbs up for Actron.
This shouldn’t be too hard, what you want to do is get a 1/2″ breaker bar on the crankshaft pulley (I am pretty sure it uses the same one asd a DSM so it should have a slot for it right on the bolt. You need someone to hold the crank still while you break the nut on the camshaft (there are ways to do it yourself, but this is as close to “hack” as I am going to recommend).
Also…$800.00 is redonkulous. It’s not that much labor.
I understand what you are saying, but I can guarantee most of the time it is they can’t afford it and please don’t spit in our faces by saying you will go elsewhere. It really does sound a lot like “doubt your abilities.”
I can say 100% without a doubt that 9 out of 10 times OEM for my Eclipse is better than the crap at AutoZone.
I wouldn’t call me close-minded. I came turbo from factory, my block is designed and engineered for turbo and so is all my electronics. Why bother going a different route? However, I am fabbing up a compound turbo build (turbo feeding turbo) to play with.
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