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It’s going to have a TCU that is either bad or the transmission is in limp mode. Check to make sure the fuse isn’t blown first. Also this car controls shift by a solenoid.
If it is in limp without a code it generally indicates the actual mechanics of the transmission are the issue. I don’t have a 1g fuse panel diagram…search dsmtuners.com for one. Most people with this issue with these cars are getting it because of a bad TCU.
When I need to vent about the stresses of dealing with the public, I got to http://www.customerssuck.com . Unfortunately, I am seeing here, that people who do not have to deal directly with the public, don’t realize how stressful it can g
Okay, the power is never being turned off to the amp. We checked every other wire, every other component , every connection, there is no problem. I have no idea why the power will not turn off. So, it’s time to just tell Mitsubishi to go die and just fix the problem the only way I know how, go around it. Here is what I did:
– Cut the connector off the amplifier harness, then cut all the wires down so no copper is showing. Wrapped what was left in electrical tape, pulled the fuse for the last time and then tucked the remainder of the harness away under the rug and into the chassis out of sight forever.
– Removed the amp.
– Grabbed a universal harness, the amp integration harness I had and an old harness from my 98 GST (all for the radio), pieced together a bypass harness and run the speakers off the head unit amp.
The results? All systems functional, no parasitic draw. I lost the use of my tweeters. However, considering the factory amp was 22w x 4 and the head unit has a 50w x 4, it sounds 10x better without the amp and you can’t even tell the tweeters are gone, because of the sound improvement from just the internal head unit amplifier.
Done. Tomorrow I finish up the wiring for the power windows and seats and I am done restoring the interior. Do my wheel hubs and move on to some actual modifications finally.
Quoted From djdevon3:
Depending on your setup the amp should power itself down when the head unit does. If it doesn’t power down then I would suspect either you didn’t wire it to the head unit correctly. It shouldn’t have been staying on without power to the head unit.
We checked the remote wire, it was signaling the amp to turn on and off as suppose to with a good connection. The problem most likely lies in the ETACS computer on the junction box, which is what is the brain for the interior “luxuries.” Not worth replacing.
No the amp is fine, I even switched out to the amp from my 98 GST just in case that was the case. If I had to put a number on it I am 98% sure it’s the ETACS computer.
Sounds better this way, so I am happy as a pig in mud.
GSXs are beasts, easily into the 11s for cheap.
True, jacobbnbrl.
I am sure though we have all seen situations like:
“My battery goes dead overnight. I need a new battery.”
Then you proceed to explain to them that it could be a parasitic draw, could be a bad alternator, etc. You explain to them that you want to charge the battery and run a few tests on it and also look over the draw and test the alternator before replacing components. Then the customer doesn’t want to hear it, because all they here is hour long diagnostic charge (which at every reputable shop, goes towards the price of the repair if you go through them) and that some guy 3 doors down from them who once replaced a headlight told them it was a battery.
In the end that customer is going to be coming back mad at you for doing as they asked and having to spend more money now than just doingt he proper system checks in the first place.
That’s pretty much what this post was originally alluding to and how frustrating it can be.
– New tires because the old ones wore funny, but the customer doesn’t want you to check the suspension components and do an alignment.
– Brake pads show abnormal wear patterns that indicate a stuck caliper or maybe a pinched line or warped rotor, but the customer doesn’t want to listen because they want to spend the 19.99 for the cheapest pads possible and pay you for 30 minutes of work at maximum.
– Car is idling rough, could be a bad fuel pump, a sticking injector, could be a ton of things, customer just wants to replace plugs and wires or just one or the other because they self diagnosed it on the internet.As mechanics we know you don’t want to spend more money than needed. We also know if we nickel and dime you, you aren’t likely to come back. Many of us went through some expensive technician programs and take a lot of pride in our work. So the customer needs to extend us a little mutual courtesy from time to time.
Mechanics are human, we do make mistakes, and some of us hate having to be the barer of the brunt that comes from that. I know personally my weak point is in electrical work, it’s just a lot, it’s overwhelming and no one locally has been willing to mentor me on it so I struggle through it. I know recently I made a huge mistake that is probably causing all my other headaches on this car. I got the car with a harness that all the wires but a few were cut out and the kid who cut them left no room on the harness side to solder. So to make my job simple I grabbed a harness from the junkyard with plenty of wire off it and began to figure out where each wire went. Then I had to cut the power and ground wires out of the other harness so I decided it was easiest to cut the top row out and match them to the new harness and then do the bottom row. In my rush to complete it I cut the power and ground at the same time and shorted them out. Now I have parasitic draws and dead components to contend with.
On the same hand, knowing that I am not good with electrical, I kindly explain to people looking to save a few dollars by having me do work on the side, that electrical is not my strong suit and as much as I like to make a few dollars and help, I point them to a better option. Most mechanics are like that. I can honestly say in all my years working on cars I have only encountered one individual, a female, funny enough, who was taken for a ride with parts she didn’t need because she had no clue about cars. That percentage is so low and insignificant that I really start to feel that some people are looking for a reason to pee in your cereal when they come to ask questions.
I am going to say something that will probably be attacked, but the whole idea of not being able to switch to synthetics in higher mileage cars or after a certain time is all hogwash. Those weight ratings on synthetic are measured against the same standard as the one’s on the dinosaur oil.
Those ones that you guys are posting may work, but they are anything but safe. You should check out a few of Eric’s videos in which he uses that style, you can actually see one fail and almost take him out.
For safety purposes, the 200.00 for the clamshell style is well worth it.
I find jbone is being very unfair and unreasonable against 3sheetsdiesel.
For one, mechanics deserve to blow off steam too, including on the forums, like customers do on forums and public feedback boards about businesses. This is an automotive repair forum, and while some people are not mechanics, some are. This community will go nowhere if everyone who joins relies on Eric to give up his entire personal life to answer all the questions on here. That means mechanics and technicians, such as 3sheets, Eric, myself like to trade stories from shop experiences and sometimes we need to tell eachother about this pain in the butt customer who did or said something unbelievable rather than let the inner frustration eat us up for the day. It’s perfectly natural, and acceptable to do so, and if in the process of doing so, on a mixed site like this, a customer type reads it as well, then so be it. It’s not like you are the one he is talking about.
I have worked many, many, many industries, including banking at Bank of America and investments, and auto repair and part counter help, and let me assure you that the customer is almost never right anymore. The good nature and and generous value in that statement that use to be offered by places has been abused for far too many years by the customer and in the process the customer actually shot themselves in the foot. We all know that when the phone rings or the door chimes that the person on the other end of that is not an expert and that is why they come to us. That is completely different then the person who has to call or visit, knowing our expertise is what they need, and then proceed to tell us we are wrong, that’s not how it works, that’s not the limitation of the system or our system, and Tom Backyard Mechanic that they know through their brother’s wife’s uncle’s neighbor’s co-worker said it could be done. That begs the question, if you know so much more than us and know we are wrong, than why aren’t you fixing it yourself or working in the industry, or why are you arguing with us for 37 minutes rather than making the 5 minute drive to Tom Backyard’s place?
If we can’t harmlessly vent to others of our profession and hobby once in awhile, then eventually it is going to be vented in an unfair manner towards a customer. Mechanics are humans too.
I am assuming 420A?
I was looking at that one and the Extech one, but I can’t afford them right now. 🙁
I know this isn’t good, but I did my best to give a simplified harness based on the FSM.
Welcome from a fellow Rhode Islander…assuming you mean smallest state by the books since they don’t count our many small islands towards our total area.
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