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Just about everything I get is OEM from the dealer. If not available, than NAPA.
If there is one thing I cringe at when a customer brings me a car or provides their own parts to the garage, is to see anything from AutoZone/Advanced.
I second not letting this person drive your car again if you are worried about it. While the logical explanation was the clutch exceeded it’s temperature rating, it also means that you probably lost some material off it as well, especially if it is a stock organic clutch. More of this sort of abuse will equal clutch job.
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
Before you say ‘timing belt’ which is possible, why not remove the drive belts one at a time and then start the engine when cold to see if the noise changes or goes away? If the noise goes away after you remove a particular belt then it involves what that belt drives, if you remove all the belts and still have the noise then check the timing belt tension. I agree that it doesn’t sound like internal engine noise and that it could be as simple as a loose belt. Diagnosis is a process of elimination if you suspect something try to come up with a way to isolate it and confirm your suspicions. I don’t think it’s likely to have anything to do with the water pump or coolant BTW as that’s not something I’ve seen really, I’m not saying it’s not possible just not likely.
The only problem with doing it this way, and I will try it, is since it is so intermittent and doesn’t happen all the time, even when freezing cold, that it could be 10-15 starts before it does it, if not more.
I love Eric’s videos, they are great, and I watch Briansmobile1, also great and for DSM specific videos I watch Jafromobile. All excellent videos and channels. I have watched a few of Scotty’s things and I think people here are being very harsh on him and I think it is because they aren’t looking at things like a technician does, and that’s okay, but at the end of a day you have to yield to the experience of the tecnician.
For instance, a mention about tools in an earlier post, no mechanic is ever going to recommend anything cheaper than Craftsman. No offense to anyone, but if your entire tool kit exists of Harbor Freigh specials, than you have no idea the real difference quality tools can make. Craftsman makes some good stuff, but even then when you step up from Craftsman to Snap On or MAC or Cornwell, etc., you quickly understand why mechanics are the way they are about tools. If I was asked the same question, with no financial support from Sears, you would get the same answer as that, head to your local Sears or go to Sears.com.
And the comments on Scotty’s clutch video, with Scotty making it look simple, honestly, a clutch job is simple 99.9% of the time, just time consuming. Once you do one successfully, you are almost at a loss for why people think it is so hard.
You guys need to go easier on them and realize just how much effort Eric puts into his videos based on this. I say it all the time, book smarts is all but worthless in mechanics, it is about applied skills and knowledge. It’s why I don’t buy into UTI and WyoTech’s lines. The best technicians I have ever met and worked with went to a local vocational school where you were given a tool box and a book and told to bring in cars yourself to work on. I used the opportunity in my school to not only make a few extra bucks and save my friends and family a few extra bucks, but to see what the real world is like. Those schools which have 5-7 shop cars stored inside all the time, never seeing the elements, used to test skills over and over again, will never prepare you for real world challenges. My point in all this, is not one video can prepare you for that bolt head that snaps off and now requires your outside the box thinking to repair.
Quoted From dreamer2355:
Have you used a stethoscope to try and isolate the noise?
What viscosity oil are you using?
Did you use a mechanical oil pressure gauge to see what your oil psi readings are at cold start up?
It’s nearly impossible to use a stethoscope. For starters it is only right at start up and goes away quick. And it is so intermittent that I can’t figure out how to duplicate the conditions.
Oil pressure is good, using 10W-40.
Well, dealerships close and sometimes techs get displaced. The problem is all the job postings for techs are now becoming ridiculously picky as companies know that experienced techs will take low wages to fill their ranks. The usual lube technician positions that “new” guys like me use to fill to get that experience in are going to guys who are all but master techs now.
Every posting wants 3-5 years of experience, minimum, plus schooling, plus various certifications and state inspection training (which companies use to pay for, bow they want to skirt costs by just grabbing the guys who have it all already. They will sit on some positions for weeks and months until they get that one perfect candidate who has to bite the bullet and work for less than he is worth.
One Toyota dealership in my area has opening for Lube Techs that even list requirements being experience or with schooling, new techs welcome, yet I e-mailed a resume and a follow up e-mail (since they requested no calls or walk ins) and got absolutely no response. Then a few days later I see them repost the advertisement.
So how do new techs get jobs now-a-days, so they can be experienced techs?
Yes, I’m aware of that, the manufacturer’s recommended weight is 10W for temperatures above -9 degrees Farenheit.
I am about 99% positive that the noise is external, it sounds almost identical to a bad ball bearing. I use a RP filter as well and do send my oil out for UOAs, I pretty doubtful on it being oil related. I don’t really drive this car, especially in the winter, so before I dump out a 95.00 2 week old oil change, Id like to explore some other troubleshooting techniques I can try to determine if a pulley or tensioner is on it’s way out or even if it might be a spun balance shaft bearing.
I had a full coolant system flush in August, I don’t think the coolant is bad, it’s a possibility, but it wouldn’t seem likely. Another thing about that, is at some of the coldest times during the winter it hasn’t done it.
If you want to do it cheap, you can use the following from a DSM:
– 2G Exhaust Manifold $60.00
– 2G O2 Housing $30.00
– 14b Turbo $100.00
– DSM 450cc Injectors $75.00
– DSM Injector Resistor Pack $25.00
– 1G DSM BOV $30.00Total $320.00 for a turbo kit.
Then you will need to get a Vortech FMU, eBay intercooler kit and have an exhaust custom made. The factory internal gate on a 14b is 8 psi, so maye buy a 6 psi actuator off eBay. You will have your 200s easy.
If you want to do it cheap, you can use the following from a DSM:
– 2G Exhaust Manifold $60.00
– 2G O2 Housing $30.00
– 14b Turbo $100.00
– DSM 450cc Injectors $75.00
– DSM Injector Resistor Pack $25.00
– 1G DSM BOV $30.00Total $320.00 for a turbo kit.
Then you will need to get a Vortech FMU, eBay intercooler kit and have an exhaust custom made. The factory internal gate on a 14b is 8 psi, so maye buy a 6 psi actuator off eBay. You will have your 200s easy.