Forum Replies Created
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Quoted From jbone:
Be lucky you have a job and another job that wants you to stay…..Stop your whining….
Go spend 20,000.00 on an education to be offered the same wages as a non-educated person for skilled labor. Then come back. It’s not my fault I am marketable in multiple industries, nor is it wrong or someone to want to be paid what they are worth. Until then get off my case, especially if you think a mechanic and a burger flipper at McDonalds do the same level of work, since the wages are the same.
Alright…drove the car to the school I went to to put it up on the lift there. Here is what we believe the noise is/was. I put a stethoscope up to the pan and heard a noise that was at crank speed, let the instructor listen and we both agreed it didn’t sound like a bearing. We also notice my oil pressure light began flickering at idle that day. We are under the impression that the oil pump is shot and that the noise was probably oil starvation at startup (which someone else here called correctly).
Car is down for awhile, I don’t have the time or money for the repair. I will keep this thread updated.
Complete and utter honest answer? You will be doing a lot of oil changes, air filters and cabin filters and not much else for awhile. Not sure your financial situation but expect $8.00 to $10.00 an hour, figure $9.00 on average.
It’s mostly in your head.
The original old wives tale came from when people switched to synthetic in cars that they ran conventional oil in, but were not following proper oil change intervals. The old dirty oil was hiding their leaks, acting like a seal in places where other seals had started to fail. I know this sounds bad, but sometimes after leaving oil in your car for so long, for so many years, it actually becomes better to continue leaving it in that car, because it may be the only thing keeping it from running.
A lady came into a shop of one of my previous instructors with a Toyota Corolla. She never changed the oil, despite his recommendation. She always stated that her husband told her oil never breaks down, so it never needs to be changed and it was all an oil company conspiracy. Well that’s true, oil never breaks down, but it does get dirty and loses it’s ability to properly lubricate. One day she noticed an oil leak from her valve cover and decided to have her brilliant husband to fix it. In the process they decided to change the oil to synthetic. When they did, she began leaking oil from the rear main seal. They brought the car back to him, hoping he could fix it. He told them once he fixes this issue, a new leak will appear. She said to do it anyway and switch the synthetic out for conventional oil again, as she believes this was what caused the new leak.
Long story short, he fixed the seal and it started leaking elsewhere, oil leaked out of the car at a pretty alarming rate, and she just ignored it, eventually spun a bearing and continued to blame it on her short use of synthetic.
When you have people, who clearly have no clue what they are talking about, such as this lady, tell her story (in her own version of course) to other people who don’t know what they are talking about, you end up with these old wives tales. Generally speaking, whenever I read or hear a version of this prepare your car for synthetic or that your engine has too many miles for synthetic, I now know that the source is not trustworthy for good information.
This sounds more like a fan issue than air in the system. The symptoms are textbook fan not kicking on. Doesn’t matter as much at speed because air is coming across the radiator, but at idle the fan can’t help circulate the hot air out and cool air in.
I second not letting this person drive your car again if you are worried about it. While the logical explanation was the clutch exceeded it’s temperature rating, it also means that you probably lost some material off it as well, especially if it is a stock organic clutch. More of this sort of abuse will equal clutch job.
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
Before you say ‘timing belt’ which is possible, why not remove the drive belts one at a time and then start the engine when cold to see if the noise changes or goes away? If the noise goes away after you remove a particular belt then it involves what that belt drives, if you remove all the belts and still have the noise then check the timing belt tension. I agree that it doesn’t sound like internal engine noise and that it could be as simple as a loose belt. Diagnosis is a process of elimination if you suspect something try to come up with a way to isolate it and confirm your suspicions. I don’t think it’s likely to have anything to do with the water pump or coolant BTW as that’s not something I’ve seen really, I’m not saying it’s not possible just not likely.
The only problem with doing it this way, and I will try it, is since it is so intermittent and doesn’t happen all the time, even when freezing cold, that it could be 10-15 starts before it does it, if not more.
I love Eric’s videos, they are great, and I watch Briansmobile1, also great and for DSM specific videos I watch Jafromobile. All excellent videos and channels. I have watched a few of Scotty’s things and I think people here are being very harsh on him and I think it is because they aren’t looking at things like a technician does, and that’s okay, but at the end of a day you have to yield to the experience of the tecnician.
For instance, a mention about tools in an earlier post, no mechanic is ever going to recommend anything cheaper than Craftsman. No offense to anyone, but if your entire tool kit exists of Harbor Freigh specials, than you have no idea the real difference quality tools can make. Craftsman makes some good stuff, but even then when you step up from Craftsman to Snap On or MAC or Cornwell, etc., you quickly understand why mechanics are the way they are about tools. If I was asked the same question, with no financial support from Sears, you would get the same answer as that, head to your local Sears or go to Sears.com.
And the comments on Scotty’s clutch video, with Scotty making it look simple, honestly, a clutch job is simple 99.9% of the time, just time consuming. Once you do one successfully, you are almost at a loss for why people think it is so hard.
You guys need to go easier on them and realize just how much effort Eric puts into his videos based on this. I say it all the time, book smarts is all but worthless in mechanics, it is about applied skills and knowledge. It’s why I don’t buy into UTI and WyoTech’s lines. The best technicians I have ever met and worked with went to a local vocational school where you were given a tool box and a book and told to bring in cars yourself to work on. I used the opportunity in my school to not only make a few extra bucks and save my friends and family a few extra bucks, but to see what the real world is like. Those schools which have 5-7 shop cars stored inside all the time, never seeing the elements, used to test skills over and over again, will never prepare you for real world challenges. My point in all this, is not one video can prepare you for that bolt head that snaps off and now requires your outside the box thinking to repair.
I think I was able to get a better video:
Quoted From TheArete:
I agree with you SpawnedX to a point. Scotty just has a different viewer in mind and a different understanding of what an automotive video should be… clear, crisp and concise. Straight to the point and very short, and I think we as a viewer (whether a current Tech, a former Tech, A DIYER, a shadetree mechanic, or general viewer) all have our OWN thoughts on what to do and not to do. Hell I’m a carpenter and I have tons of insight on ways to properly install a jam or things not to do that many of you outside the field might not know or even agree with. We all grew up and learned different ways and we each think “OUR” way is the appropriate and best way. C’est la Vie.
I will however disagree with your point about MOTORZ. If someone asked me where to get a specific tool or brand the answer would UNDOUBTEDLY change depending on the tool. A good wet-vac… try a Ridgid. A decent Torque wrench… Snap-On… an air Impact Wrench… Ingersoll-Rand. The best electric impact driver… Makita or Hitachi. And you yourself probably have your brands that you would recommend, many of you are big supporters of Dewalt or Mac or Matco. My point is, neither of us would recommend a single brand to cover everything.
Motorz does… because SEARS are the sponsors. That’s fine and dandy (everyone’s gotta pay the bill for a show/ video and even Eric has BBB), however in this particular situation… the guy was asking for cheap tools (not a cheap brand) but where he could find quality tools on the cheap.
Any number of answers would be reasonable such as… Craigslist, Ebay, Amazon, buying old estate sales, yardsales, going to a retired Mech… anything.
Instead, on EVERY SHOW, at every opportunity we have to hear the Sears Blue Tool pitch. That’s over advertising in my opinion when you have to have several SEARS ads during the show, the stickers everywhere, every tool on the show a SEARS brand, SEARS listed as the sponsor and when asked for advice told “Go to SEARS.” We’ll agree to disagree… but to me personally… that’s overkill.Sure my recommendation would change per tool, but if someone asked me a vague “cheap tools” question, then I am going to default to a mechanic’s kit at Craftsman, 300.00 gets you something decent, the same starter kit from Snap On is $2,000 to $2.500.00, $300.00 is the very definition of cheap to me when you look at it like that.
I mean, what was the person expecting? Sure they could have told you to go look for guys selling their used tools, but there is no guarantee anyone is at the moment. $300.00 gets you a whole tool kit and box with a lifetime warranty and Craftsman is the very bottom of the bin brand that you will ever see a mechanic offer.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 … ockType=G4
Understood. Let me clarify that quote.
Knowing just theory learned from books is all but useless. Many of these top dollar schools teach you from a book in a classroom for a majority of your stay there, where as some of these local schools, including the one I went to, have you out in the shop more than in the classroom. It’s one thing to tell you how the starter is a giant electromagnetic motor controlled by a solenoid and another to show you how to actually diagnose a no start condition and actually sneak that starter out. A book will never show you that it is easier to take a swivel head ratcheting wrench with a ratcheting insert and a socket to attack that pesky bolt over a regular ratchet and socket.
There is definitely some fishy business going on with the voting, I watched 500 votes for mary in the last hour or so.
I have been asking my DSM related groups on Facebook and their forums for help. I also, when I went back to auto school, provided the teacher with a link to some very good videos Eric has done and I know he uses them still, so I will shoot him a call and see if he can have his students help out. I also ask people to pass it along.
There is one forum left that I belong to that I don’t have it posted on yet, and I am not sure I should or not. I will ask your opinions, the site is, and a lot of you veterans may have heard of it, YellowBullet.com.
Also, it doesn’t let me vote once per day with my YouTube.com account, it let’s me change my vote, but not vote again.
Quoted From dreamer2355:
They need to change voting where they see your IP address to stop double voting.
More then double voting has occurred, marydoodles has jumped almost 2000 votes since I woke up this morning. I want Eric to win, but since cheating is rampant and allowed, I fear we are wasting our time.