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YIKES ! It’d be really swell if you could find that part of the schematic for that entire circuit including it’s branches. It appears that you had a short to ground of some kind somewhere in that circuit and that caused the connector to overheat and melt down. If you can find the schematic, even if you have to blow it up on a copy machine to read the thing, see what the voltage readings should be on which wires in that circuit with the key off. Test it.
You probably have have found your problem but before you just go with a new connector down there, it’d sure be nice to know what caused that connector to toast. Make sure you don’t have any shorted grounds on that circuit or the whole thing might light up all over again. A meter or power probe will do fine. Test voltage levels at connectors like heater switches, blower motor and just pop out the window switch and measure the juice at the contact under the switch with the ignition key on but engine off. Check too for wiring problems behind the radio or where old electronic accessories were hooked up at some time and then removed.
Electrical problems can be a real pain but a methodical approach should help prevent you from chasing your tail. Be patient but be thorough. Good luck.
YIKES ! It’d be really swell if you could find that part of the schematic for that entire circuit including it’s branches. It appears that you had a short to ground of some kind somewhere in that circuit and that caused the connector to overheat and melt down. If you can find the schematic, even if you have to blow it up on a copy machine to read the thing, see what the voltage readings should be on which wires in that circuit with the key off. Test it. I’d look for an overload first or see if you can find a shorted ground in that whole circuit. Having a power probe to test for hot and ground would be real helpful. And before you start testing, make sure that circuit is opened at the shorted connector and trace it back to the main panel. Otherwise you might end up chasing your tail.
YIKES ! It’d be really swell if you could find that part of the schematic for that entire circuit including it’s branches. It appears that you had a short to ground of some kind somewhere in that circuit and that caused the connector to overheat and melt down. If you can find the schematic, even if you have to blow it up on a copy machine to read the thing, see what the voltage readings should be on which wires in that circuit with the key off. Test it. I’d look for an overload first or see if you can find a shorted ground in that whole circuit. Having a power probe to test for hot and ground would be real helpful. And before you start testing, make sure that circuit is opened at the shorted connector and trace it back to the main panel. Otherwise you might end up chasing your tail.
When all else fails, read the can or push comes to shove, call the manufacturer tech support in the morning. That number should also be on the can. Oh, and get the name of the person you speak with.
If you’re in the U.S. Phone: 1-800-AIR-BRAKE, option 1 or
1-866-610-9709, option 1 If they can’t answer your specific question about their product, they’ll give you the number of one of their tech support people who can.When all else fails, read the can or push comes to shove, call the manufacturer tech support in the morning. That number should also be on the can. Oh, and get the name of the person you speak with.
If you’re in the U.S. Phone: 1-800-AIR-BRAKE, option 1 or
1-866-610-9709, option 1 If they can’t answer your specific question about their product, they’ll give you the number of one of their tech support people who can.Yep. You might just have found the source of your leak. The filler neck on the top of the radiator can corrode and crack and any coolant leak up there, where it gets quite hot and evaporates before you can have a chance to get out of the car and pop the hood. Over time and with corrosion, the solder joint on the neck breaks down and leak when the system gets up to pressure. Easy to find with a leak detector.
Sometimes (rarely) they can be soldered at a radiator shop, other times the radiator is toast and you have to replace it. Broken necks are hard to fix but the brighter side is that radiators aren’t all that pricey and you can replace it yourself. Eric did a video on that too. Once again, I recommend a pressure test it to be sure that’s your problem.
Yep. You might just have found the source of your leak. The filler neck on the top of the radiator can corrode and crack and any coolant leak up there, where it gets quite hot and evaporates before you can have a chance to get out of the car and pop the hood. Over time and with corrosion, the solder joint on the neck breaks down and leak when the system gets up to pressure. Easy to find with a leak detector.
Sometimes (rarely) they can be soldered at a radiator shop, other times the radiator is toast and you have to replace it. Broken necks are hard to fix but the brighter side is that radiators aren’t all that pricey and you can replace it yourself. Eric did a video on that too. Once again, I recommend a pressure test it to be sure that’s your problem.
Understand that your 8mm bolts didn’t inset into any hole on the inside of the brake They are meant to provide leverage essentially to pop the hub loose. The alternative way is to leave the 8mm fastener for the time being, alone and get a 5 or even 10 pound persuader sledge and carefully give some hard wacks to the hub assembly. Be very careful not to hit the wheel studs. Keep your feet out from under the hub btw so when it pops loose it doesn’t land on your tootsies.
THEN once it’s off, spray the broken bolt front and back with penetrating oil or get some stuff called KROIL at the parts store. It’s super penetrating oil but keep it away from plastic. Grab the part that went through the hub and turn it out with a pair of vise grips.
OR plan #3, failing those measures, again once the hub is off the car, take it to a machine shop or even a parts store and either have them drill it out with a broken bolt remover of appropriate size OR let them twist out the offending stud.Next time, try to avoid using 8mm bolts made of Chinese steel. 😉
Oh yeah, if you have auto club membership, call in for road service and tell them you’ve got a brake problem. They might just send a guy out with a boatload of tools including large sledge hammers to break it loose.Understand that your 8mm bolts didn’t inset into any hole on the inside of the brake They are meant to provide leverage essentially to pop the hub loose. The alternative way is to leave the 8mm fastener for the time being, alone and get a 5 or even 10 pound persuader sledge and carefully give some hard wacks to the hub assembly. Be very careful not to hit the wheel studs. Keep your feet out from under the hub btw so when it pops loose it doesn’t land on your tootsies.
THEN once it’s off, spray the broken bolt front and back with penetrating oil or get some stuff called KROIL at the parts store. It’s super penetrating oil but keep it away from plastic. Grab the part that went through the hub and turn it out with a pair of vise grips.
OR plan #3, failing those measures, again once the hub is off the car, take it to a machine shop or even a parts store and either have them drill it out with a broken bolt remover of appropriate size OR let them twist out the offending stud.Next time, try to avoid using 8mm bolts made of Chinese steel. 😉
Oh yeah, if you have auto club membership, call in for road service and tell them you’ve got a brake problem. They might just send a guy out with a boatload of tools including large sledge hammers to break it loose.If you can’t actually see the leak happening, borrow a cooling system pressure tester from someone, an auto parts store or even a radiator repair shop to let them test it for you. Pump it up to about 13-15 PSI watch the gauge for drops in pressure. Make sure to pressure test your radiator cap too. There’s an adapter for that. Check around the radiator of course, but also look for pin hole leaks on hoses, around clamps, thermostat housing, water pump weep hole and shaft, check for wet spots below the heater box on the floor in the front passenger seat. Check for the sweet smell of antifreeze around your engine head and tail-pipe. If you see the tester gauge pressure dropping off and can’t see the leak, try listening for it.
BTW, there may be more than one source of leak(s) and even if it evaporates into steam when the engine is at operating temp, it’s got to be coming out of the system from somewhere. Radiator caps are a classic source as the gaskets breakdown over time.
Also, see if the auto parts store like O’Reilly has some indicator dye you can put in your radiator and use a UV light to find drips that way too.
If you can’t actually see the leak happening, borrow a cooling system pressure tester from someone, an auto parts store or even a radiator repair shop to let them test it for you. Pump it up to about 13-15 PSI watch the gauge for drops in pressure. Make sure to pressure test your radiator cap too. There’s an adapter for that. Check around the radiator of course, but also look for pin hole leaks on hoses, around clamps, thermostat housing, water pump weep hole and shaft, check for wet spots below the heater box on the floor in the front passenger seat. Check for the sweet smell of antifreeze around your engine head and tail-pipe. If you see the tester gauge pressure dropping off and can’t see the leak, try listening for it.
BTW, there may be more than one source of leak(s) and even if it evaporates into steam when the engine is at operating temp, it’s got to be coming out of the system from somewhere. Radiator caps are a classic source as the gaskets breakdown over time.
Also, see if the auto parts store like O’Reilly has some indicator dye you can put in your radiator and use a UV light to find drips that way too.
Greetings. This is my first posting over here so I hope you find it useful. For what it’s worth, I’d troubleshoot this down to either the ignition system or fuel system before replacing any more parts. Have you checked for consistent fuel pressure from the pump at the intake? It’s a pretty easy test with either a pressure test gauge or manually without one.
With all due respect to Eric, here’s a quick video from Scotty Kilmer on this problem and how to troubleshoot and isolate it that you might find useful. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8Fzg
While sometimes, when you hear hoof beats, ya gotta think Zebras and not horses, imho I’d start this one thinking horses and check the fuel pump and run some simple diagnostics on the ignition. Hope that helps out.Mark
Greetings. This is my first posting over here so I hope you find it useful. For what it’s worth, I’d troubleshoot this down to either the ignition system or fuel system before replacing any more parts. Have you checked for consistent fuel pressure from the pump at the intake? It’s a pretty easy test with either a pressure test gauge or manually without one.
With all due respect to Eric, here’s a quick video from Scotty Kilmer on this problem and how to troubleshoot and isolate it that you might find useful. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8Fzg
While sometimes, when you hear hoof beats, ya gotta think Zebras and not horses, imho I’d start this one thinking horses and check the fuel pump and run some simple diagnostics on the ignition. Hope that helps out.Mark