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Once you chose the car you’re going to rally in, I’d strongly recommend that you rally round the wiring diagrams and before you start cutting, pulling and removing, look at what the component is wired to and what else is in the circuit. Then decide whether you need to rewire or bypass something in order for other things to function, like the ignition.
For example, in some older Fords, if you disconnect the seatbelt sensor in the passenger seat, it disconnects power to the idle control on the carb leading to rough idle and stalling.
Good luck !Without intending to be at all discouraging, this is new territory for you and I think an inspection is both warranted and prudent. It is, afterall, how you roll, and your brakes and steering need to be sound for obvious reasons. Also, there may be some tools you’d need to aid in fixing this, like a spring compressor, that a shop would have.
Why not take it in to have it inspected and then let us know what, if anything, they find unless it’s something that they feel makes the car dangerous to drive. At that point, I’d let them fix it and afterwards let us know what was found and we can discuss it. ;>)
SparksWithout intending to be at all discouraging, this is new territory for you and I think an inspection is both warranted and prudent. It is, afterall, how you roll, and your brakes and steering need to be sound for obvious reasons. Also, there may be some tools you’d need to aid in fixing this, like a spring compressor, that a shop would have.
Why not take it in to have it inspected and then let us know what, if anything, they find unless it’s something that they feel makes the car dangerous to drive. At that point, I’d let them fix it and afterwards let us know what was found and we can discuss it. ;>)
SparksMaybe we should have a new forum section called :”Identify this part”?? Or Mystery Parts.
I don’t suppose there was another one of these in place on either the radiator, like a corner guard or stone guard that may have fallen off? Is it something that may be used to attach the bumper cover to the chassis?
I have no clue either. I’d get some Q-Bond and glue it somewhere on the splash guard so as to not block the air flow to the radiator. Attach a Post-It note that says “I don’t know either but it seemed to look good here”.
Maybe we should have a new forum section called :”Identify this part”?? Or Mystery Parts.
I don’t suppose there was another one of these in place on either the radiator, like a corner guard or stone guard that may have fallen off? Is it something that may be used to attach the bumper cover to the chassis?
I have no clue either. I’d get some Q-Bond and glue it somewhere on the splash guard so as to not block the air flow to the radiator. Attach a Post-It note that says “I don’t know either but it seemed to look good here”.
This is a great issue. I think the question comes down to “What would a reasonably prudent tech do under similar circumstances and occurrences given the same facts.”
Initially, I’d start with getting a really thorough engine history from the customer for things like overheating problems, how much, under what circumstances and for how often. Even a brief written questionaire might be really helpful because you get something from them in writing that you can point to later on and say, “I asked, but the customer never told me”.
In addition, do you think it would be prudent to analyze every engine that comes in the door with a cooling system complaint for things like compression tests and if so, who pays for the time to do that? IMO, it should be the customer and in similar cases to this one, I’d make the diagnostic eval mandatory with a written report as to what the findings are and a place for the customer to sign-off on knowing you can only guarantee the water pump fix and nothing else on the engine. In other words, something in writing to ensure you’re not going to be blamed if he has a damaged engine that you didn’t know about.
And if the customer chooses not to have that kind of analysis done, have them sign a waiver that says it was offered and refused. And your warranty applies strictly to parts and labor to the water pump. Replacing the hoses and the cap is professional and I think a great idea towards customer satisfaction, but how far do you go and where do you stop in the interest of customer service and satisfaction? Thermostat and gasket? Heater hoses? Cooling system flush?
We live in a litigious society. Sadly, small shops need to legally protect themselves like a large dealership. I think that starts in the work agreement and service order. It’s similar to when the cops are investigating a homicide and they go looking for the last guy who saw the victim alive. It seems that the last tech under the hood is the first one on the grill when another system fails. For how long? I don’t know. To a large extent I think it depends on the integrity or honesty of the customer which is also sadly lacking these days.
Sparks.
This is a great issue. I think the question comes down to “What would a reasonably prudent tech do under similar circumstances and occurrences given the same facts.”
Initially, I’d start with getting a really thorough engine history from the customer for things like overheating problems, how much, under what circumstances and for how often. Even a brief written questionaire might be really helpful because you get something from them in writing that you can point to later on and say, “I asked, but the customer never told me”.
In addition, do you think it would be prudent to analyze every engine that comes in the door with a cooling system complaint for things like compression tests and if so, who pays for the time to do that? IMO, it should be the customer and in similar cases to this one, I’d make the diagnostic eval mandatory with a written report as to what the findings are and a place for the customer to sign-off on knowing you can only guarantee the water pump fix and nothing else on the engine. In other words, something in writing to ensure you’re not going to be blamed if he has a damaged engine that you didn’t know about.
And if the customer chooses not to have that kind of analysis done, have them sign a waiver that says it was offered and refused. And your warranty applies strictly to parts and labor to the water pump. Replacing the hoses and the cap is professional and I think a great idea towards customer satisfaction, but how far do you go and where do you stop in the interest of customer service and satisfaction? Thermostat and gasket? Heater hoses? Cooling system flush?
We live in a litigious society. Sadly, small shops need to legally protect themselves like a large dealership. I think that starts in the work agreement and service order. It’s similar to when the cops are investigating a homicide and they go looking for the last guy who saw the victim alive. It seems that the last tech under the hood is the first one on the grill when another system fails. For how long? I don’t know. To a large extent I think it depends on the integrity or honesty of the customer which is also sadly lacking these days.
Sparks.
Here’s a new route to take:
Call Acura Client service line in Torrance Calif. and ask them to hook you up with one of the manufacturer techs down there at their corporate office. Have your VIN number handy and the mileage.
By Phone(800) 382-2238 toll free
Monday through Friday
6:00 AM to 5:00 PM PacificBy Emailacr@ahm.acura.com
Take it light. Have a nice vacation.
SparksHere’s a new route to take:
Call Acura Client service line in Torrance Calif. and ask them to hook you up with one of the manufacturer techs down there at their corporate office. Have your VIN number handy and the mileage.
By Phone(800) 382-2238 toll free
Monday through Friday
6:00 AM to 5:00 PM PacificBy Emailacr@ahm.acura.com
Take it light. Have a nice vacation.
SparksThese two videos might get you going in the right direction. Although these aren’t for your particular Buick, the basic location, pointers and principles are the same. Before getting started, however, have you isolated the problem for sure to the blower motor, checked the fuse, power source and electrical connection to the motor, panel switch, resistor, etc?
This one is on a noisy blower motor.
Sparks
These two videos might get you going in the right direction. Although these aren’t for your particular Buick, the basic location, pointers and principles are the same. Before getting started, however, have you isolated the problem for sure to the blower motor, checked the fuse, power source and electrical connection to the motor, panel switch, resistor, etc?
This one is on a noisy blower motor.
Sparks
If you don’t have a scanner, could you take it to a larger parts store and ask them to see if it’s throwing any diagnostic trouble codes? Aside from your description of the problem(s) that might be a really good place to start and helping us to help you. ;>)
Sparks