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Four months to change a head gasket? I sure hope they weren’t working on time and materials. Since this problem took two months after the shop to develop, I’d read your warranty on the repair ticket and if it’s within that period, take it back to the shop, tell them to diagnose and fix the thing. If you do that, just tell them what it’s doing not what you did to diagnose it yourself and explain that it wasn’t doing it before you brought it in for the head gasket. (I assume it wasn’t).
It could be a lot of things, including bad gas, fuel pump, fuel filter, plug wire (an intermittent) among other things. Let us know what you find out.
MFour months to change a head gasket? I sure hope they weren’t working on time and materials. Since this problem took two months after the shop to develop, I’d read your warranty on the repair ticket and if it’s within that period, take it back to the shop, tell them to diagnose and fix the thing. If you do that, just tell them what it’s doing not what you did to diagnose it yourself and explain that it wasn’t doing it before you brought it in for the head gasket. (I assume it wasn’t).
It could be a lot of things, including bad gas, fuel pump, fuel filter, plug wire (an intermittent) among other things. Let us know what you find out.
MI see a few immediate solutions. While you may not need an engine rebuild just yet, you probably do need a marriage and family counselor.
Yes, I’d check the engine compression frequently to keep an eye on it over time; change what’s left of the oil, fill it back up and check for leaks and oil burning. Along with the 5W-30, although some might disagree, I’d toss in a can of STP oil treatment (or something like it) with every oil change from this point forward. How much damage occurred, if any, is going to depend on how far it was driven like that, how fast, and other driving conditions including engine temperature. And remember, the effects of running on very low oil may not present themselves right away, but rather over time.
You already have an oil sensor indicator device. Called a “dipstick”. Since she refuses to use it, I’d change the ignition key, buy your wife a bus pass, gift wrap it and YOU check the oil and take over the responsibility before stubbornness ruins the engine and toasts your relationship. Enroll in an auto club with an unlimited local towing and I sure wouldn’t take it on any road trips until it’s really proven itself (along with your wife).
You oughtta be checking the oil, regardless of who is or isn’t going to be the principal driver. I have to tell ya JM, in my view, life is too short, and all kidding aside over who checks the oil, pick and chose your battles wisely.
I see a few immediate solutions. While you may not need an engine rebuild just yet, you probably do need a marriage and family counselor.
Yes, I’d check the engine compression frequently to keep an eye on it over time; change what’s left of the oil, fill it back up and check for leaks and oil burning. Along with the 5W-30, although some might disagree, I’d toss in a can of STP oil treatment (or something like it) with every oil change from this point forward. How much damage occurred, if any, is going to depend on how far it was driven like that, how fast, and other driving conditions including engine temperature. And remember, the effects of running on very low oil may not present themselves right away, but rather over time.
You already have an oil sensor indicator device. Called a “dipstick”. Since she refuses to use it, I’d change the ignition key, buy your wife a bus pass, gift wrap it and YOU check the oil and take over the responsibility before stubbornness ruins the engine and toasts your relationship. Enroll in an auto club with an unlimited local towing and I sure wouldn’t take it on any road trips until it’s really proven itself (along with your wife).
You oughtta be checking the oil, regardless of who is or isn’t going to be the principal driver. I have to tell ya JM, in my view, life is too short, and all kidding aside over who checks the oil, pick and chose your battles wisely.
I have a feeling that the phrase “catastrophic failure” is defined in either your owners manual if you’ve got one, or on the Lincoln web-site. At any rate, it’s a 1997 and even if you’re the original owner, the factory warranty that would cover such failures likely lapsed some time ago.
OTOH, any individual warranty on the part itself or an extended warranty, factory or third-party, that you may have purchased should define that term as well. It doesn’t need multiple part failure or multi-system failure as a result of a single part or component failure to be considered catastrophic. Your single compressor might just be enough, but whether it’s covered by some manufacturer is a different story.
Lastly, I should mention that different states may require manufacturers and even some sellers of various products, cars and their components, etc., to supplement their coverage through implied warranties like “fitness for a particular purpose” and require additional consumer protection rights of coverage beyond the scope of the manufacturer written warranty.
M.I have a feeling that the phrase “catastrophic failure” is defined in either your owners manual if you’ve got one, or on the Lincoln web-site. At any rate, it’s a 1997 and even if you’re the original owner, the factory warranty that would cover such failures likely lapsed some time ago.
OTOH, any individual warranty on the part itself or an extended warranty, factory or third-party, that you may have purchased should define that term as well. It doesn’t need multiple part failure or multi-system failure as a result of a single part or component failure to be considered catastrophic. Your single compressor might just be enough, but whether it’s covered by some manufacturer is a different story.
Lastly, I should mention that different states may require manufacturers and even some sellers of various products, cars and their components, etc., to supplement their coverage through implied warranties like “fitness for a particular purpose” and require additional consumer protection rights of coverage beyond the scope of the manufacturer written warranty.
M.According to the manufacturer, the one I got from Amazon that I mentioned above, appears to test for moisture content only. It’s here: http://www.amazon.com/Great-Neck-25267-Brake-Tester/dp/B00825PQ4A/ref=pd_sbs_auto_2
The indicators give you the following readings:
Green/Yellow LED Less than 1-Percent of water content in brake fluid. Green/Yellow with Yellow LED. Approximately 2-Percent of water content in brake fluid. Green/Yellow with Yellow and Red. Approximately 3-Percent water content in brake fluid.For copper, I believe the proper way to test is using the fluid test strips
like these from Phoenix Systems that you can take a look at here:
http://www.amazon.com/STRIP-BRAKE-FLUID-TEST-STRIPS/dp/B007TN17VC/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1367514653&sr=1-7&keywords=brake+fluid+test+stripsAs the blurb there from Phoenix Sys. says, “Focuses on maintenance issues of brake fluid, not moisture or PH” although I’m not exactly sure what “maintenance issues” means although Ph as Eric says sounds right. For about .50 per strip, if you use them a lot, it might be worth it. Don’t know how long they store for without going bad, or if they do.
MarkAccording to the manufacturer, the one I got from Amazon that I mentioned above, appears to test for moisture content only. It’s here: http://www.amazon.com/Great-Neck-25267-Brake-Tester/dp/B00825PQ4A/ref=pd_sbs_auto_2
The indicators give you the following readings:
Green/Yellow LED Less than 1-Percent of water content in brake fluid. Green/Yellow with Yellow LED. Approximately 2-Percent of water content in brake fluid. Green/Yellow with Yellow and Red. Approximately 3-Percent water content in brake fluid.For copper, I believe the proper way to test is using the fluid test strips
like these from Phoenix Systems that you can take a look at here:
http://www.amazon.com/STRIP-BRAKE-FLUID-TEST-STRIPS/dp/B007TN17VC/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1367514653&sr=1-7&keywords=brake+fluid+test+stripsAs the blurb there from Phoenix Sys. says, “Focuses on maintenance issues of brake fluid, not moisture or PH” although I’m not exactly sure what “maintenance issues” means although Ph as Eric says sounds right. For about .50 per strip, if you use them a lot, it might be worth it. Don’t know how long they store for without going bad, or if they do.
MarkYep/ BFH is probably what you need. Sometimes it helps to use some penetrating oil on the studs and a considerably bigger hammer (as shown here) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lWsBECDwb_U
At this point, it’s ok to hit on the sides of the drum ajd not just the face of the drum. But remember to be careful not to whack the studs.
Yep/ BFH is probably what you need. Sometimes it helps to use some penetrating oil on the studs and a considerably bigger hammer (as shown here) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lWsBECDwb_U
At this point, it’s ok to hit on the sides of the drum ajd not just the face of the drum. But remember to be careful not to whack the studs.
I’d get a can of ant spray at the supermarket, read the warning label and then spray it where you used the washer fluid. Usually those sprays advise against direct contact, e.g., like washing your hands in it, spraying it on your skin etc., but on the insulation, trunk, etc., you and the kids should be ok. If I correctly remember my chemistry, I think either a solution of boric acid crystals dissolved in water would also do the trick or even a concentrated solution of table salt either one applied using a spray bottle.
I’d get a can of ant spray at the supermarket, read the warning label and then spray it where you used the washer fluid. Usually those sprays advise against direct contact, e.g., like washing your hands in it, spraying it on your skin etc., but on the insulation, trunk, etc., you and the kids should be ok. If I correctly remember my chemistry, I think either a solution of boric acid crystals dissolved in water would also do the trick or even a concentrated solution of table salt either one applied using a spray bottle.
YIKES ! It’d be really swell if you could find that part of the schematic for that entire circuit including it’s branches. It appears that you had a short to ground of some kind somewhere in that circuit and that caused the connector to overheat and melt down. If you can find the schematic, even if you have to blow it up on a copy machine to read the thing, see what the voltage readings should be on which wires in that circuit with the key off. Test it.
You probably have have found your problem but before you just go with a new connector down there, it’d sure be nice to know what caused that connector to toast. Make sure you don’t have any shorted grounds on that circuit or the whole thing might light up all over again. A meter or power probe will do fine. Test voltage levels at connectors like heater switches, blower motor and just pop out the window switch and measure the juice at the contact under the switch with the ignition key on but engine off. Check too for wiring problems behind the radio or where old electronic accessories were hooked up at some time and then removed.
Electrical problems can be a real pain but a methodical approach should help prevent you from chasing your tail. Be patient but be thorough. Good luck.