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I’ve seen the cost of converting the front wheels to discs and it’s about $600 with a kit that another person with a similar vehicle has used. The problem with that also is that the MC is under the car attached to the chassis, which means I’ll have to move the MC to where it’s located in most modern cars. Yep, it’s expensive and elaborate.
However, I’m trying hard to push myself away from being part of the throw it away society, and I know it won’t always work. Sometimes you have to simply throw it away and purchase new. I at least want to say that I tried. If the cylinder leaks even a tiny amount, then I’ll say I exhausted all options and the only good and safe option remaining was to purchase a replacement.
Cap269: Here’s the link to the cylinder. https://www.studebakerparts.com/studebakerparts/store/s/agora.cgi?product=brakesa&cart_id=7743.12882
BRK003A BRAKE WHEEL CYLINDER
BRK003A-or 525821 FRONT WHEEL CYLINDER FOR 1950-1953 COMMANDER
TRUCK 1949-1957 1/2 TON 2R-3E 5,6,7 1954-1956 3R-2E:10,11 (1″)The ones with the coplaner mounting brackets/fasteners are very easy to find, it’s just finding one that has diagonal mounts and a 90deg hose connection to main cylinder angle is hard to find.
The co-owner/employee Chris told me that it’s just unfortunate that I have a car which was on the edge of being changed to a less expensive part. I know that parts for a newer car would be much more expensive.
I think I saw that in another thread here. The part about wearing safety glasses because the pistons can shoot out like a bullet. I’ll give that a try when I can buy a proper threaded compressor fitting at HD as I wouldn’t trust putting just pressure on it from something which is made to spray air out the tip.
Progress update… The left side came out with a lot of coaxing. The right side is where I now have a bigger problem. I’m also aware that once I hone and remove material from the surface of the cylinder, the seal will be less effective and might cause leaks. It might however not be big enough to do that, and I would like to exhaust all non-expensive options before I’m forced to purchased an expensive cylinder.
The right side is where I have the bigger problem. I pushed the pistons inward towards the centre of the cylinder, and performed the same procedure as the left side and used my drill with flat bit to attempt to rotate the piston inside the cylinder. New problem and something I didn’t realise. In rotating the part which holds onto the edge of the brake shoe, the little piece of metal detached from the main piston area. It doesn’t look like it broke, but can intentionally be removed from the piston. The problem now is that I have no idea how to rotate as there’s really not that much to hold onto on the outside of the piston. I haven’t tried to heat this side, and am hoping someone has some advice. I pushed both pistons in about as far as they’ll go and can imagine the spring is fully compressed inside the cylinder.
I would love to simply buy new cylinders, but the year of my car is at the cusp of when Studebaker was changing brake parts, and the only ones I’ve found which will fit on my car are $90 a wheel. If the parts were $30 something or less, I would just buy a new or rebuilt one.
I can probably provide pics if requested.
Sorry, I just realised that I had already written a thread on this. I don’t know how to delete this.
I’m currently working on my 1953 Studebaker Commander, and to repair the brakes to acceptable, working condition. I need to rebuild the wheel cylinders, and they have a lot of rust around and in them. Both of the front cylinders were stuck, so I used a C clamp on both, and managed to free the left wheel cylinder after having pushed the pistons loose and then using a drill and flat bit rotated the piston (using loads of lubricant) until it was far enough out to where I could forcefully pull it out, and remove the rest of the internals. I successfully cleaned and honed the cylinder and now looks much better.
The right side is where I have the bigger problem. I pushed the pistons inward towards the centre of the cylinder, and performed the same procedure as the left side and used my drill with flat bit to attempt to rotate the piston inside the cylinder. New problem and something I didn’t realise. In rotating the part which holds onto the edge of the brake shoe, the little piece of metal detached from the main piston area. It doesn’t look like it broke, but can intentionally be removed from the piston. The problem now is that I have no idea how to rotate as there’s really not that much to hold onto on the outside of the piston. I haven’t tried to heat this side, and am hoping someone has some advice. I pushed both pistons in about as far as they’ll go and can imagine the spring is fully compressed inside the cylinder.
I would love to simply buy new cylinders, but the year of my car is at the cusp of when Studebaker was changing brake parts, and the only ones I’ve found which will fit on my car are $90 a wheel. If the parts were $30 something or less, I would just buy a new or rebuilt one.
I can probably provide pics if requested.
I’m looking for parts, but the only ones I’m currently finding are $90 each. I’m not wanting to pay that of course and am looking for ones which are substantially less. I found a number of them on ebay and auto parts stores’ websites for much less. The problem I see with them is the mounting side doesn’t look like mine.
Here’s an excellent page on someone redoing theirs which is identical to mine in every way I can tell.
http://www.theymightberacing.com/Projects/InSitu/SC53/BrakeSystem.aspxThe attachment is of what my front cylinders look like.
A woman whom owns a very similar car to mine is going disc and I’m really interested in knowing what she found because I don’t want to not be able to find parts some day. The main reason the brakes on mine are in such bad condition is because prior to my owning it, it sat in a field in Cali for 10 years. If you take care of what you own, it should look good and work the same, if not. Well, you have what I do on your hands.
I just found this.. Not an exact match, but not particularly expensive either.
http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-WC8379-Wheel-Cylinder-Assembly/dp/B000CQTK12I’m looking for parts, but the only ones I’m currently finding are $90 each. I’m not wanting to pay that of course and am looking for ones which are substantially less. I found a number of them on ebay and auto parts stores’ websites for much less. The problem I see with them is the mounting side doesn’t look like mine.
Here’s an excellent page on someone redoing theirs which is identical to mine in every way I can tell.
http://www.theymightberacing.com/Projects/InSitu/SC53/BrakeSystem.aspxThe attachment is of what my front cylinders look like.
A woman whom owns a very similar car to mine is going disc and I’m really interested in knowing what she found because I don’t want to not be able to find parts some day. The main reason the brakes on mine are in such bad condition is because prior to my owning it, it sat in a field in Cali for 10 years. If you take care of what you own, it should look good and work the same, if not. Well, you have what I do on your hands.
I just found this.. Not an exact match, but not particularly expensive either.
http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-WC8379-Wheel-Cylinder-Assembly/dp/B000CQTK12I don’t believe you need to remove the engine to access the head gaskets. I’ve seen many Subarus in the shop (there are a lot of Subarus in CO. Humourously people have said that Subaru sponsors Colorado), and they rarely had the engines removed for head gaskets.
Yeh, don’t buy inexpensive ebay parts unless you want trouble. I made that mistake with an exhaust system and the parts weren’t measured correctly so the fit was off in a lot of ways. The price may be lower, but you have to wonder if the materials are inferior to those of say FelPro.
I don’t believe you need to remove the engine to access the head gaskets. I’ve seen many Subarus in the shop (there are a lot of Subarus in CO. Humourously people have said that Subaru sponsors Colorado), and they rarely had the engines removed for head gaskets.
Yeh, don’t buy inexpensive ebay parts unless you want trouble. I made that mistake with an exhaust system and the parts weren’t measured correctly so the fit was off in a lot of ways. The price may be lower, but you have to wonder if the materials are inferior to those of say FelPro.
So, the guy whom does my oil changes (discussed further in the DIY or oil change place thread) suggested to me that I use GB MOA in my car. He told me it replaces things like detergents which have been slowly removed over time by oil companies.
I’m wondering if this sort of product takes conventional oil and adds these additives to make the oil have characteristics more like high milage oil. We’ve changed the oil several times after having MOA introduced into the engine and found that at times the oil was much more amber in colour, and at times much darker. The oil is changed every 3k mi. religiously.
The manufacturer states it’s mandatory for this change interval because of a small screen in front of the turbo on the turbo oil line to prevent the screen from clogging and starving the turbo bearings. I learned this from reading the info on the AMSoil site, which stated that yes, on most vehicles they stand behind their 25k mi change policy, except where manufacturers state differently. The interval stated by the company which made me car was something like 2,800 mi.
My car has 196,400 mi as of today, and runs incredibly strong. Most of the cars like mine haven’t lasted that long. Then again most are driven by younger men whom either modify the hell out of them, or don’t properly maintain them.
So, the guy whom does my oil changes (discussed further in the DIY or oil change place thread) suggested to me that I use GB MOA in my car. He told me it replaces things like detergents which have been slowly removed over time by oil companies.
I’m wondering if this sort of product takes conventional oil and adds these additives to make the oil have characteristics more like high milage oil. We’ve changed the oil several times after having MOA introduced into the engine and found that at times the oil was much more amber in colour, and at times much darker. The oil is changed every 3k mi. religiously.
The manufacturer states it’s mandatory for this change interval because of a small screen in front of the turbo on the turbo oil line to prevent the screen from clogging and starving the turbo bearings. I learned this from reading the info on the AMSoil site, which stated that yes, on most vehicles they stand behind their 25k mi change policy, except where manufacturers state differently. The interval stated by the company which made me car was something like 2,800 mi.
My car has 196,400 mi as of today, and runs incredibly strong. Most of the cars like mine haven’t lasted that long. Then again most are driven by younger men whom either modify the hell out of them, or don’t properly maintain them.
I have my oil changed at a shop even though I’m quite capable of doing the job myself. I know the tech pretty well, and he’s older and way more trustworthy in my opinion than a younger one whom works at an oil change shop.
It also gives me an opportunity to go under the car when it’s on a lift. He and I inspect the underside of it every time, he checks the tyres and wheels, and other things like that. Loss leaders in the automotive service industry suck, the ones whom charge $20 for an oil change are doing so to put people like him out of business. They’re also doing that so they can “find” things wrong with your car and recommend a much more costly repair which is probably not needed.
It’s $38 for me to have my oil changed and a few other services like inspections which to me are totally worth the money. Again, cost of ownership of a vehicle. I fear taking my car to a big store like Walmart (Walfart to me), or sears, etc. The people whom work there most of the time are super inexperienced and have heard horror stories from face-to-face conversations and online discussions such as this. Once in a great while you’ll have an older person whom really takes pride in their work, work on your car.
I would rather change my oil myself than go to a big box retailer, unless for some reason I’m unable to do it myself, or find some place. That’s when I cross every digit I have that the employee (I wouldn’t even call a tech most of the time) doesn’t do damage to my car.
I have my oil changed at a shop even though I’m quite capable of doing the job myself. I know the tech pretty well, and he’s older and way more trustworthy in my opinion than a younger one whom works at an oil change shop.
It also gives me an opportunity to go under the car when it’s on a lift. He and I inspect the underside of it every time, he checks the tyres and wheels, and other things like that. Loss leaders in the automotive service industry suck, the ones whom charge $20 for an oil change are doing so to put people like him out of business. They’re also doing that so they can “find” things wrong with your car and recommend a much more costly repair which is probably not needed.
It’s $38 for me to have my oil changed and a few other services like inspections which to me are totally worth the money. Again, cost of ownership of a vehicle. I fear taking my car to a big store like Walmart (Walfart to me), or sears, etc. The people whom work there most of the time are super inexperienced and have heard horror stories from face-to-face conversations and online discussions such as this. Once in a great while you’ll have an older person whom really takes pride in their work, work on your car.
I would rather change my oil myself than go to a big box retailer, unless for some reason I’m unable to do it myself, or find some place. That’s when I cross every digit I have that the employee (I wouldn’t even call a tech most of the time) doesn’t do damage to my car.
I almost envy the newer cars owners in ways as their cars usually don’t have loads of rust to work around. I’ve been working on my Studebaker off and on for a while now, and usually have to stop for a bit in order to save to purchase something needed for it.
This car is very simple, but has a lot of things on it which aren’t standard. I have to do a bit of research at times just to remove things, and then realise that the part is no longer made, or costs substantially more than a similar part for a newer car.
I almost envy the newer cars owners in ways as their cars usually don’t have loads of rust to work around. I’ve been working on my Studebaker off and on for a while now, and usually have to stop for a bit in order to save to purchase something needed for it.
This car is very simple, but has a lot of things on it which aren’t standard. I have to do a bit of research at times just to remove things, and then realise that the part is no longer made, or costs substantially more than a similar part for a newer car.
