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Hey Eric, saw your video on this, and I’m with you on this subject. I first installed these in a 98 Buick Regal and in the 6+ years of driving that car, I think maybe one or two flashed their lights at me. otherwise, no problems even with law enforcement (SC)
When the head gasket blew on the Regal I pulled the ballast out to move them over to my 05 Impala, The bulbs themselves were in dire need of replacement, not very bright at all. Anyways, ordered new 5000K bulbs off of amazon for $12 and just installed them, after over an hour of night time driving along a busy highway, 0 flashes.
Its not so much a matter of the housing its in, thought that plays a bit into it, but the aim of the headlights probably matters alot more.
Oh, and Eric, you might want to touch on the topic of replacing parts at certain intervals even if they “still work”, those old bulbs were probably worse than halogen bulbs but still worked.
Hey Eric, saw your video on this, and I’m with you on this subject. I first installed these in a 98 Buick Regal and in the 6+ years of driving that car, I think maybe one or two flashed their lights at me. otherwise, no problems even with law enforcement (SC)
When the head gasket blew on the Regal I pulled the ballast out to move them over to my 05 Impala, The bulbs themselves were in dire need of replacement, not very bright at all. Anyways, ordered new 5000K bulbs off of amazon for $12 and just installed them, after over an hour of night time driving along a busy highway, 0 flashes.
Its not so much a matter of the housing its in, thought that plays a bit into it, but the aim of the headlights probably matters alot more.
Oh, and Eric, you might want to touch on the topic of replacing parts at certain intervals even if they “still work”, those old bulbs were probably worse than halogen bulbs but still worked.
So with a downstream O2 sensor mimicking the upstream, I probably should look at replacing the cat, correct?
So with a downstream O2 sensor mimicking the upstream, I probably should look at replacing the cat, correct?
Oh whoops, see what happens when you stop working with cars on a regular basis? Yeah, I meant Wheel Cylinder, Its what accuates the drum brakes. Only applys if you have rear drums instead of rear disc.
And yes, as mentioned, don’t throw parts at the car until you know what the problem is. I learned that lesson last year when my AC clutch froze up and I replaced the battery (dropped to 8v on crank attempt), replaced the starter after the batter didnt fix it. New starter started it twice, and then it quit. Finally talked to an actual tech and we were able to get ideas, like remove drive belt, see if it cranks.
Oh whoops, see what happens when you stop working with cars on a regular basis? Yeah, I meant Wheel Cylinder, Its what accuates the drum brakes. Only applys if you have rear drums instead of rear disc.
And yes, as mentioned, don’t throw parts at the car until you know what the problem is. I learned that lesson last year when my AC clutch froze up and I replaced the battery (dropped to 8v on crank attempt), replaced the starter after the batter didnt fix it. New starter started it twice, and then it quit. Finally talked to an actual tech and we were able to get ideas, like remove drive belt, see if it cranks.
It sounds like your Master Brake cylinder is starting/has failed. Also check for any leaks, such as a leaking slave cylinder if you have rear drums. Other possibilities is a swelling hose (maybe but its probably your MBC)
It sounds like your Master Brake cylinder is starting/has failed. Also check for any leaks, such as a leaking slave cylinder if you have rear drums. Other possibilities is a swelling hose (maybe but its probably your MBC)
Ok, as I said I’ve managed to plug up my dads scan tool and take a look at the O2 sensor data and its not good.
Both front and back sensors are switching rather rapidly and the downstream seems to mirror the front. Not a good sign. I havn’t crawled under the car yet but got as close to the exhaust system as I could to see if I could hear an exhaust leak and it does sound like I have one, but it might be the resonator. I havn’t been able to actually get under the car yet.
shame, $200 repair… ugh. I don’t have emissions testing but I’d like to have the problem solved and not have to worry about regularly checking the codes to make sure any more serious problems have manifested.
Ok, as I said I’ve managed to plug up my dads scan tool and take a look at the O2 sensor data and its not good.
Both front and back sensors are switching rather rapidly and the downstream seems to mirror the front. Not a good sign. I havn’t crawled under the car yet but got as close to the exhaust system as I could to see if I could hear an exhaust leak and it does sound like I have one, but it might be the resonator. I havn’t been able to actually get under the car yet.
shame, $200 repair… ugh. I don’t have emissions testing but I’d like to have the problem solved and not have to worry about regularly checking the codes to make sure any more serious problems have manifested.
Yeah, Having worked in a parts store I heard similar stories of the Bosch plugs being absolute junk in GM engines. Same goes for Autolite copper plugs, Think I had someone change the plugs with copper on one of those GM engines, came back in after the plugs fouled demanding a warranty refund.
Speaking of Evap canister, Fuel pump shuts off when unless I baby it when refueling. Best way to go about fixing this? No EVAP codes, just that minor annoyance. I can see the main line running from the gas tank, but not the one leading to the solenoid. weird.
Yeah, Having worked in a parts store I heard similar stories of the Bosch plugs being absolute junk in GM engines. Same goes for Autolite copper plugs, Think I had someone change the plugs with copper on one of those GM engines, came back in after the plugs fouled demanding a warranty refund.
Speaking of Evap canister, Fuel pump shuts off when unless I baby it when refueling. Best way to go about fixing this? No EVAP codes, just that minor annoyance. I can see the main line running from the gas tank, but not the one leading to the solenoid. weird.
Also note that a broken wire from the alternator to the regulator could cause this issue as well. Never discount that possibility. Thankfully a regulator is like $20 and easy to replace, so its a good way to test.
If that STILL doesnt work, its time to pull out a multimeter and start doing continuity checks between the alternator and regulator. Reason I say continuity and not voltage is because I dont have a wiring diagram with voltage specs and dont know them either.
Also note that a broken wire from the alternator to the regulator could cause this issue as well. Never discount that possibility. Thankfully a regulator is like $20 and easy to replace, so its a good way to test.
If that STILL doesnt work, its time to pull out a multimeter and start doing continuity checks between the alternator and regulator. Reason I say continuity and not voltage is because I dont have a wiring diagram with voltage specs and dont know them either.
Pffft, I’ve had a 3800 for 7 years, I could not destroy that engine, the head gasket was probably a work in progress for at least a year if not more. Not to mention they arn’t bad to work on, up until you want to change out the plugs >.< Also, when I say the O2 sensor is black, I mean on the outside, not in the actual exhaust. I havn't pulled that off yet as I'm unsure what the exact issue is. But I was also under the impression that a bad cat, the output voltage on the O2 sensor will bottom out quite frequently causing issues. Course the front could be slow switching and causing the code. Ace, another question. Is it true that GM cars don't like Non-GM parts. I know with plugs on that engine that if you don't use OE plugs (I.E. Plat/Iridium) that you will wind up fouling them frequently with copper plugs due to that crazy emissions control setup they have. But there is talk of non AC-Delco parts (namely O2 sensors) not holding up very long. I know the front was replaced at some point, not sure on the back.