[David]

I’d make sure you dont have a vacuum leak somewhere. I know my Buick was like that when I changed out the upper intake manifold gasket and didnt tighten down the back bolts properly.

[David]

I’d make sure you dont have a vacuum leak somewhere. I know my Buick was like that when I changed out the upper intake manifold gasket and didnt tighten down the back bolts properly.

[David]

I’m not trying to sound like a stuck up elitist, but as someone who has spent alot of times on internet forums, no one will want to read that long line of text without SOME paragraphs. As it is, I’m way to tired to try reading it myself, will do so in the morning though.

[David]

I’m not trying to sound like a stuck up elitist, but as someone who has spent alot of times on internet forums, no one will want to read that long line of text without SOME paragraphs. As it is, I’m way to tired to try reading it myself, will do so in the morning though.

[David]

with the car running, whats the voltage? does the voltage drop below 13.5v when under a load like your headlights and blower motor running and even a few power windows (if equipped) for good measure. If not, possible alternator problem

Does the battery read 12.5v with the car off, does it read 12v with lights and other stuff on. If not battery either needs to be recharged or replaced. Does it drop below 10v while engine is cranking? If yes check to make sure no belt pulleys are seized, if not then recharge or replace battery. Whats the age of the battery? 3-4 years and its probably time for a replacement

How did you “check” your system? did you get a second opinion?

We need more info. Based on the fact that the car cuts off, I’m leaning towards a battery/alternator problem, as a computer & starter failure combo is… unlikely. And reason I mentioned the pulleys, I had a good battery drop to 8v while trying to crank the car with a seized pulley.

[David]

with the car running, whats the voltage? does the voltage drop below 13.5v when under a load like your headlights and blower motor running and even a few power windows (if equipped) for good measure. If not, possible alternator problem

Does the battery read 12.5v with the car off, does it read 12v with lights and other stuff on. If not battery either needs to be recharged or replaced. Does it drop below 10v while engine is cranking? If yes check to make sure no belt pulleys are seized, if not then recharge or replace battery. Whats the age of the battery? 3-4 years and its probably time for a replacement

How did you “check” your system? did you get a second opinion?

We need more info. Based on the fact that the car cuts off, I’m leaning towards a battery/alternator problem, as a computer & starter failure combo is… unlikely. And reason I mentioned the pulleys, I had a good battery drop to 8v while trying to crank the car with a seized pulley.

[David]

My suggestion, bypass that thing entirely and use a T connector with vacuum lines. I had to do that on my 98 regal when a similar setup broke at the throttle body. In fact I may have to do that with my impala.

[David]

My suggestion, bypass that thing entirely and use a T connector with vacuum lines. I had to do that on my 98 regal when a similar setup broke at the throttle body. In fact I may have to do that with my impala.

[David]

I believe this is what was referred http://www.harborfreight.com/can-obd-ii-scan-tool-with-abs-60796.html

Hmmm, may have to get one myself. ABS and manufacture specific codes, yes please.

Anyways, Advance sells an Actron scanner than will display fuel trim info, RPM, and other various stuff, it runs $250 I think. Sometimes the stores will use that one, other times its the $50 one. Just various from store to store, I should know, I worked for Advance.

But that guy didn’t know what he was talking about, you don’t need a $10k scanner just to read a few things like O2 sensor voltage and fuel trim. Heck, he may be even using a scanner capable of doing so and not realizing it.

[David]

I believe this is what was referred http://www.harborfreight.com/can-obd-ii-scan-tool-with-abs-60796.html

Hmmm, may have to get one myself. ABS and manufacture specific codes, yes please.

Anyways, Advance sells an Actron scanner than will display fuel trim info, RPM, and other various stuff, it runs $250 I think. Sometimes the stores will use that one, other times its the $50 one. Just various from store to store, I should know, I worked for Advance.

But that guy didn’t know what he was talking about, you don’t need a $10k scanner just to read a few things like O2 sensor voltage and fuel trim. Heck, he may be even using a scanner capable of doing so and not realizing it.

[David]

I would suspect a bad switch, since all lights seem to be getting power its not a fuse. But since you describe a no-power problem when the switch is in the neutral position, but you get power on the right, I would tend to think its the turn signal switch.

I don’t envy the person replacing that.

[David]

I would suspect a bad switch, since all lights seem to be getting power its not a fuse. But since you describe a no-power problem when the switch is in the neutral position, but you get power on the right, I would tend to think its the turn signal switch.

I don’t envy the person replacing that.

[David]

Mine wasnt bad, about $15, but yeah, some get pricy. as far as the acura, you sure there is one? usually when one isnt listed it means the car never came with one, and CAF’s were somewhat uncommon back then.

[David]

Mine wasnt bad, about $15, but yeah, some get pricy. as far as the acura, you sure there is one? usually when one isnt listed it means the car never came with one, and CAF’s were somewhat uncommon back then.

[David]

I AM noticing a higher amount of air flowing so yeah, and this might solve my window fog problem as my new Impala loves to fog up the windshield, but my Regal didnt. All that dirt was probably trapping moisture and when I start running air through it, well, yeah.

[Author]

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