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Having worked in a parts store, its ALWAYS recommended to replace the head bolts anytime you take the head off, if you didnt? start there. From the sounds of it it sounds like you’re bolts arn’t torqued correctly
Turns out I seem to have killed two birds with one stone. When I got home I felt around for a ground strap, made sure it was secure and all that. Got in my car and ABS light shut itself off, indicating that it fixed it. Drove to work (45 miles away) and nothing. no C1225, no C1218, it seems to have fixed it. If it comes on again I’ll likely replace the ground strap/and or touch up other ground points.
Its an 05 Impala.
Also note, the FPR are really bad about going out on those GM V6s, I myself might have a faulty FPR as the car seems to be dumping fuel. Shop is looking at to see if they can chase down the problem.
Advance or Autozone can test the alternator, not sure what kind of load it puts on it, if any but it can tell you if you have an alternator problem or a problem with the PCM or wires.
Advance or Autozone can test the alternator, not sure what kind of load it puts on it, if any but it can tell you if you have an alternator problem or a problem with the PCM or wires.
Do you hear the motor turning? if not that is a big clue that either the motor, relay, switch or wiring is faulty. If you do it means its probably a busted regulator, its a common problem for the rear GM cars sadly.
Do you hear the motor turning? if not that is a big clue that either the motor, relay, switch or wiring is faulty. If you do it means its probably a busted regulator, its a common problem for the rear GM cars sadly.
Take the bent ones to a scrap yard, see what you can get for the metal, sell the good ones locally or online to recoup some of the expense.
Take the bent ones to a scrap yard, see what you can get for the metal, sell the good ones locally or online to recoup some of the expense.
actually wysetech, thats not true. You CAN pull codes on GM/Chrysler OBDI cars without a scan tool.
Use a paper clip or other solid wire to jumper the A/B terminals on the OBD port then turn the key to the “ON” position. the MIL should flash, count these flashes.
For instance a code 23 (and I forget what that one is) the MIL will flash twice, pause, and then flash 3 times.
Edit: aaaaaannnnnnndddd ninja’d by college, pfft.
actually wysetech, thats not true. You CAN pull codes on GM/Chrysler OBDI cars without a scan tool.
Use a paper clip or other solid wire to jumper the A/B terminals on the OBD port then turn the key to the “ON” position. the MIL should flash, count these flashes.
For instance a code 23 (and I forget what that one is) the MIL will flash twice, pause, and then flash 3 times.
Edit: aaaaaannnnnnndddd ninja’d by college, pfft.
this isnt an ignition problem, we can tell that because it requires a jump to start again, and once it does it cuts off.
this isnt an ignition problem, we can tell that because it requires a jump to start again, and once it does it cuts off.
sound to me like something is loose like a tie-rod end or maybe out of alignment (or both). I’d start prying on parts in the front and see if anything moves.