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They did their job, popped out when the water in the engine froze…
You can buy adjustable rubber freeze plugs, take the ones you have with you and get the right size…
Cheers
I had a similair scenario in an old truck and a celica I had… It was caused by the starter sticking and not wanting to engage. Wouldn’t make a click or anything. Gave the starter a few good taps with a hammer or wrench and it would start right up… Eventually it happened to me in a storm and then I replaced the starter!
Making sure all connections are good should be priority though, it’s a good idea to undo the battery terminals and clean up any connections you can, grounds, connections on the the starter etc, with a small wire brush. Then spray with a good oil like fluid film, anti sieze or grease…
Honda and toyota owner here!!!
Owned a ford and still own a chev, but will never purchase either again, over priced under engineered junk…
None of the big three should even be in business, if anyone ran their business like those are run they would be bankrupt and would never get a cent of our tax money to help them out!
My toyota 350 000km still going strong
300 000km on my accord runs great all original engine and powertrain!!!Quoted From Trcustoms719:
“No honest mechanic would recommend bondo as a solution to any hole” Is that pointed at me??
Not at all, in my first post I recommended it man…
If it were my car and a just get me from A to B car I would do it and as I said in my first post I’ve done it before and passed the safety…
Sorry for that anyway, maybe bad wording on my part, just trying to give as much info on my experience with such problems… Writing sometimes can sound different to the reader then the person writing it…
cheers
It sounds a bit more ticky and noisey then my 2.2
I would pull the valve cover and do the valve adjustment…
While the cover is off you can inspect the timing belt more easily… Look for hairline cracks in it, and look to see if there is still writing on the smooth side of the belt… If there are cracks or no writing left on the smooth side of the belt she’s probably ready to be replaced… The writing on the belt being gone can also indicate the tensioner pully bearing being cooked…
cheer and good luck! A vehicle well worth throwing a few buck at IMO!!!
I sold a really nice one I had and what a mistake…
I still have my old Toyota land cruiser diesel which I will be buried in, but there are something about integra’s…
Good f’in cars!!! here here…
My pet peeve is alignments… Here in ontario 90$ to have it put up on the rack and it takes no time to accomplish…. I have tried every method out there to do it yourself alignments and although I can get it darn close it’s not perfect… In the end good tires are expensive and I always run pretty good rubber, an alignment issue can eat tires and cause your vechile to handle strangly…
It’s a good idea for sure!!!
You can also buy 3M body seam/glue products for patch panels. I have never used the stuff but have herd good things, if you use my acid method it should help provide good adhesion also… I know of a grand am that has new rockers glued on from a local shop that passed the car right after…
I know what Eric is saying about structural integrity, but the car would have passed the inspection if the rocker panels had no integrity left, but there were no holes visable to the naked eye… This being said I have had cars fail for small holes in a door… It all depends on the shop and realistically these things should be properly repaired especially on a uni body car… I don’t know if chev didn’t paint inside their rockers or forgot to used the wrong primer again, but I haven’t seen too many 10 year old GM cars that didn’t have rotten rocker panels, I do live in Ontario though and our vehicles see a lot of salt…
No honest mechanic would recommend bondo as a solution to any hole especially if it’s structural… I just think if it were that important to the cars integrity GM would have been forced to recall their vehicles, like I said all of them I see seem to be rotten! Ford recently had to recall windstars for axles snapping from excessive rust and front ends falling apart… Don’t hear much about that on the news though, after all it isn’t a japanese vehicle so why talk about it incessantly…
Sorry I’ll stop talking…
Ohh boy… Let me first say you are not alone…
This was my nightmare when I first bought my old Accord… I replaced both front CV’s after purchasing the car with A1 Cardon remans, the driverside vibrated really bad… Complained to carquest and was told this was very very uncommon, the old dude behind the counter said he had never had one returned (BS I’ve read all over the internet about issues with cardone remans).. swaped it out with another and still had the vibration under acceleration but less… 6 months later I looked under the car and the passenger side boot was ripped. I did a bunch of research and a lot of people complain about A1 cardon and all the chinese aftermarket axles on the honda forums… Like I was thinking at the time how can a honda CV last for 200000 km’s plus with the original boots, but new axles have ripped boots in 6 months which would destroy the sub par joint in no time… The issue with the remans is with cars that get to be older most of the axles that start being remaned with new joints are bad chinese ones that were never properly heat treated…
I got some AUP axles from rock auto, really nice axles out of the box came with the dynamic dampener on the longer shaft installed them and no more vibration!!!!!! Of course it was probably only 8 months to a year later the passenger side boot cracked and then ripped… I now have an EMPI axle on that side…
All this being said if I lived in the states, I would buy from Raxles, he has amazing service and ppl on the forums rave about the quality of his axles… However I have never purchased from him because he need OEM cores which I no longer have or he charges you for them and combined that with shipping and it kills the deal for me… if you’re tight on money buy new EMPI axles from rock auto…
I hope that story helps a bit man, I know how frustrating it can be!
I think the EMPI axles are pretty darn good the boots still look nice no crack and it’s been on almost a year now, the other AUP axle I have has boots with cosmetic cracks but haven’t ripped yet… The thing that bugs me to no end is your CV is only as good as the F’in boot, so why use sub par boots?
It runs until it’s up to operating temp? or just for a few minutes idling (how many)? Can you drive it down the road a few miles before this appears?
Ever put any tune up parts on your car ie: cap, rotor, sparkplugs, air filter?
Does the car need to cool right back down again to start and run for a while again?
If you plan to keep the car for a while and don’t have a welder. I would use a heavy duty degreaser and power wash the rockers out then treat the rust with phosphoric acid, it can be found in the US quite easily under various product name, milestone remover at TSC… buy a gallon or more because if you’re a car guy and deal with rust this stuff makes projects go so much easier. Put in rusty parts and they come out like new, bolts, washer nuts, whatever and you can brush it on rust and it will eat it, and it won’t eat the metal…It’s actually in coke and pepsi in small amounts and is what gives those drinks their bite.. Either way it is an irritent but it won’t melt your skin or anything and washes off with water… Treat the rust covered spots with this, several times if needed, I assume by your post you’re dealing with gaping rust holes. Use a wire wheel or in worse case a wire brush after the acid treatment and scrap the surface down until you see more rust, treat it again, repeat, until you’re down to a good base and when you scrap at the treated metal nothing flakes off… Acetone the area, if it’s a beater car prime the treated area and fill with bondo, if you wanna keep the car for the long haul I would weld in new metal and use a good 2 epoxy part primer and paint… The acid does leave a protecting film, but water exposer that rockerpanels face the rust will return quickly… Let us know what you plan to do with the car…. If you just wanna pass the safety you should be able to get away with some bondo and a heavy coat of asphalt undercoating! Did this to a beater buick, actually held up pretty darn good
x2
I’ve kicked the crap out of snap on, williams and mac ratchets on transport trucks and while gears wear out over time they all hold up insainly well even when punished with long breaking bars, hammer etc
A snap on guy’s primary job is to supply tools to the customer and replace any broken, damaged or worn tools promptly and for free!
Sound like your guy isn’t doing his job!