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I’ve had it up in the air since and there is absolutely no slack in anything. Not that I can feel at least, but obviously the loads are significantly higher when it’s back on the floor.
It’s only on one side. It’s a jolt / clonk that I can hear and feel. Like metal on metal.
I don’t get it. I’ve done top mounts on MK3 Golfs at least a dozen times and never had a problem, but the first time I’ve attempted it on a MK4 Golf, it goes bad! And they’re the same parts!
On the MK4 Golf, the damper slides into the hub carrier and is secured with a pinch bolt. Even with a special tool to pry open the bearing carrier hole, quite a lot of force is required to break the damper free (due to corrosion), which usually means whacking the carrier with a hammer. The only thing I can think of is I may have damaged something by doing that. A lower BJ or wheel bearing perhaps. It’s standard practice though and I’d be extremely unlucky if that’s the case!
Thanks for the words of encouragement but I’ll get my mechanic to tear it down at the shop next week as it’s a not a pleasant job to be honest. I also don’t like floor jacks as I have it in my mind twisting the body shell regularly can’t be good for it? It’s booked in for it’s annual test on the same day, so we’ll kill 2 or 3 birds with the same stone.
It is drivable in meantime, thankfully, so I didn’t balls it up too badly :blush:
I’ve had it up in the air since and there is absolutely no slack in anything. Not that I can feel at least, but obviously the loads are significantly higher when it’s back on the floor.
It’s only on one side. It’s a jolt / clonk that I can hear and feel. Like metal on metal.
I don’t get it. I’ve done top mounts on MK3 Golfs at least a dozen times and never had a problem, but the first time I’ve attempted it on a MK4 Golf, it goes bad! And they’re the same parts!
On the MK4 Golf, the damper slides into the hub carrier and is secured with a pinch bolt. Even with a special tool to pry open the bearing carrier hole, quite a lot of force is required to break the damper free (due to corrosion), which usually means whacking the carrier with a hammer. The only thing I can think of is I may have damaged something by doing that. A lower BJ or wheel bearing perhaps. It’s standard practice though and I’d be extremely unlucky if that’s the case!
Thanks for the words of encouragement but I’ll get my mechanic to tear it down at the shop next week as it’s a not a pleasant job to be honest. I also don’t like floor jacks as I have it in my mind twisting the body shell regularly can’t be good for it? It’s booked in for it’s annual test on the same day, so we’ll kill 2 or 3 birds with the same stone.
It is drivable in meantime, thankfully, so I didn’t balls it up too badly :blush:
Thanks guys
In the end I measured the length of the old tie rods and it’s not too far out.
I did the front strut top mounts whilst I was there and I messed that right up! All OEM parts and assembled properly, but something isn’t right, judging by the clunking noises.
I will indeed nurse it up to the shop and get them to have a look at the top mounts and do the alignment. I think I’ll watch Eric’s “Knowing when to quit” video again 😉
Thanks guys
In the end I measured the length of the old tie rods and it’s not too far out.
I did the front strut top mounts whilst I was there and I messed that right up! All OEM parts and assembled properly, but something isn’t right, judging by the clunking noises.
I will indeed nurse it up to the shop and get them to have a look at the top mounts and do the alignment. I think I’ll watch Eric’s “Knowing when to quit” video again 😉
Modified wiring is my number one pet hate with modified cars. Cheap bolt-on external bits can easily be removed, but butchered harnesses can cause a whole world of pain!
I remember once spending an entire day troubleshooting a VW that ran on when the key was pulled from the ignition. None of the car’s factory wiring diagrams helped because the car had an engine conversion, so a completely different harness. In the end, it was traced to some shoddy wiring of an accessory causing a short, which kept the power relays energized when the key was removed.
Modified wiring is my number one pet hate with modified cars. Cheap bolt-on external bits can easily be removed, but butchered harnesses can cause a whole world of pain!
I remember once spending an entire day troubleshooting a VW that ran on when the key was pulled from the ignition. None of the car’s factory wiring diagrams helped because the car had an engine conversion, so a completely different harness. In the end, it was traced to some shoddy wiring of an accessory causing a short, which kept the power relays energized when the key was removed.