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[quote=”JS” post=99558]The coolest intake kit I’ve ever seen, also the most expensive is a replacement intake manifold for VR6/R32 VW engines with a turbo on them. It had super short intake runners and a built in liquid to air intercooler that ran on a small electric pump and reservoir mounted on the rad shroud filled with the same type of coolant the engine used. Everything about that system is designed for reducing air restriction. The charged air feed was direct and short from the turbo to the manifold, and the fresh air feed to the turbo was short too. Some serious brains went into that kit. It was a while ago but that car on the dyno was 400 and change horsepower. And sitting shotgun I was actually a bit scared at how fast it accelerated and drove. Thank god for grippy tires, biiiiiiig brakes, and all wheel drive.[/quote]
Unfortunately that manifold removes 50lbft from the bottom end torque. VW used very long runners on that engine as it’s natural power band comes in at 5000rpm, which is hopeless for a daily driver. Below that the torque has to be persuaded out of it by use of variable intake geometry, as well as variable valve timing. The manifold you refer to (not naming it in case there are forum rules) was designed for neat packaging, and on that score they get top marks! If you don’t mind killing the responsiveness of the engine below 4000rpm (a reduction in compression from 11.25:1 to 8:1 doesn’t help there either, or the engine braking), then short runner intakes are the way to go as there are gains at the top end.
As for CAIs and turbo engines (factory), I would only upgrade the intake when it’s proven to be a restriction. The exhaust turbine / housing is the mother of all restrictions anyway, and it’s not often the rate of air being drawn in vastly exceeds how quickly the exhausts gases can be shifted, so start with free flowing exhaust manifold, downpipe, bin the first catalyst and then the exhaust system, THEN do the intake. You might see a notable gain (from the CAI) at that point.
Tool review videos is an excellent idea!
Any cordless wrench that can undo a hub nut gets my vote!
I bought a 1/2″ Sealey one years ago for removing wheel bolts a bit quicker but it’s rubbish compared to that AC Delco one.
[quote=”Webby the Bear” post=75825]Really enjoyed this! I doubt I’ll be purchasing the specific brands that you guys can buy in the states as i’m in England. However the types of things you review will be of help.
I have an electric impact gun but it’s corded and hooks up to the mains. its an EXCELLENT tool nd looks very similar to your cordless one.
mines a bit weaker (pulls up to 450nm if memory serves) but really useful.
bit heavy though. that’s the only downside[/quote]
Is it the Clarke one from Machine Mart for about 80 quid? That looks like a good tool.
I suspect they are heavy because of the gearbox & motor required to put that kind of torque out?
Tool review videos is an excellent idea!
Any cordless wrench that can undo a hub nut gets my vote!
I bought a 1/2″ Sealey one years ago for removing wheel bolts a bit quicker but it’s rubbish compared to that AC Delco one.
[quote=”Webby the Bear” post=75825]Really enjoyed this! I doubt I’ll be purchasing the specific brands that you guys can buy in the states as i’m in England. However the types of things you review will be of help.
I have an electric impact gun but it’s corded and hooks up to the mains. its an EXCELLENT tool nd looks very similar to your cordless one.
mines a bit weaker (pulls up to 450nm if memory serves) but really useful.
bit heavy though. that’s the only downside[/quote]
Is it the Clarke one from Machine Mart for about 80 quid? That looks like a good tool.
I suspect they are heavy because of the gearbox & motor required to put that kind of torque out?
1 Litre per 1000 KM is the default get out clause here in Europe. Even worse than 1 quart per 1000 miles!
When there is a disparity in consumption for the same engine, I think it possibly comes down to how the engine was treated in it’s first few hundred miles. Engines made by robots can’t really be made inconsistently (unless humans don’t periodically check the tooling sharpness / wear), so it’s got to be owner treatment related, in my opinion.
For the first time in my life I have an engine that uses no oil at all between changes. Such a treat!
1 Litre per 1000 KM is the default get out clause here in Europe. Even worse than 1 quart per 1000 miles!
When there is a disparity in consumption for the same engine, I think it possibly comes down to how the engine was treated in it’s first few hundred miles. Engines made by robots can’t really be made inconsistently (unless humans don’t periodically check the tooling sharpness / wear), so it’s got to be owner treatment related, in my opinion.
For the first time in my life I have an engine that uses no oil at all between changes. Such a treat!
Thanks Eric. I watched that video last night, and also your Cavalier one for good measure, but unfortunately VW have since redesigned the TREs, so thread counting is no longer an option. Measuring the length of the entire tie rod was the only thing I could do and it’s close enough to drive to a shop without shredding the tyres.
An ordeal indeed, but you can’t buy experience like this. It keeps the knowledge pool topped up.
Thanks Eric. I watched that video last night, and also your Cavalier one for good measure, but unfortunately VW have since redesigned the TREs, so thread counting is no longer an option. Measuring the length of the entire tie rod was the only thing I could do and it’s close enough to drive to a shop without shredding the tyres.
An ordeal indeed, but you can’t buy experience like this. It keeps the knowledge pool topped up.
[quote=”brokemechanic3000″ post=73596]I would add that most of my customers are nervous when I say that they can go longer than 3 thousand. I tell them that is why cars have oil life monitoring systems when the car tells you to change it well then change it.[/quote]
They won’t like VWs with longlife servicing then! Up to 20K miles between changes.
Wasn’t there a Cadillac that was supposed to be maintenance free for the first 100K miles, even the oil?
I change my oil when it smells burned and choked with blow by, which generally happens by 4-5K miles.
[quote=”brokemechanic3000″ post=73596]I would add that most of my customers are nervous when I say that they can go longer than 3 thousand. I tell them that is why cars have oil life monitoring systems when the car tells you to change it well then change it.[/quote]
They won’t like VWs with longlife servicing then! Up to 20K miles between changes.
Wasn’t there a Cadillac that was supposed to be maintenance free for the first 100K miles, even the oil?
I change my oil when it smells burned and choked with blow by, which generally happens by 4-5K miles.
I took your advice Tom and stripped it all down again.
Every day is a school day and the lesson I learned today was: never blindly trust the new parts to be correct!
The problem seemed to stem from these parts. Rubber mount, bearing and the securing nut.
[IMG]http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x2/kevhaywire/Img_0004_zps598f6a39.jpg[/IMG]
VW in their infinite wisdom decided to alter the nut and the rubber mounting ever so slightly.
I would never have seen this difference if I didn’t refit the old parts again out of curiosity.
Old nut on the left. Revised part on the right.
[IMG]http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x2/kevhaywire/Img_0002_zpsee9ef78e.jpg[/IMG]
So I ended up fitting new bearings, but reusing the old rubber mount and nut. Not ideal but it buys me some time until I can figure this one.
So it drives a million times better, but unfortunately I got a double whammy. I noticed some lateral play in the damper rod, so the clunk is still there on turns when the damper is loaded up, but it’s nowhere near as bad as it was.
Time for new dampers I guess. $400 each from VW :unsure:
I took your advice Tom and stripped it all down again.
Every day is a school day and the lesson I learned today was: never blindly trust the new parts to be correct!
The problem seemed to stem from these parts. Rubber mount, bearing and the securing nut.
[IMG]http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x2/kevhaywire/Img_0004_zps598f6a39.jpg[/IMG]
VW in their infinite wisdom decided to alter the nut and the rubber mounting ever so slightly.
I would never have seen this difference if I didn’t refit the old parts again out of curiosity.
Old nut on the left. Revised part on the right.
[IMG]http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x2/kevhaywire/Img_0002_zpsee9ef78e.jpg[/IMG]
So I ended up fitting new bearings, but reusing the old rubber mount and nut. Not ideal but it buys me some time until I can figure this one.
So it drives a million times better, but unfortunately I got a double whammy. I noticed some lateral play in the damper rod, so the clunk is still there on turns when the damper is loaded up, but it’s nowhere near as bad as it was.
Time for new dampers I guess. $400 each from VW :unsure:
A few I’ve heard of over the years, which could be true or false:
Starting a manual car with the clutch pedal down saves wear on the starter motor.
Bump starting an engine with a timing chain can make it jump teeth.
Idling a cold engine for extended periods whilst it warms up in winter is bad for wear.
An “Italian tune-up” with flushing oil can fix noisy / worn tappets.
Waiting until the oil temp has reached 100 degrees before driving it hard adds years to the engine life.
A few I’ve heard of over the years, which could be true or false:
Starting a manual car with the clutch pedal down saves wear on the starter motor.
Bump starting an engine with a timing chain can make it jump teeth.
Idling a cold engine for extended periods whilst it warms up in winter is bad for wear.
An “Italian tune-up” with flushing oil can fix noisy / worn tappets.
Waiting until the oil temp has reached 100 degrees before driving it hard adds years to the engine life.