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I agree with checking the timing belt, if it jumped a tooth it can do that. also a compression test, I have seen 2 common valve problems with them, chunk of carbon breaks loose and slightly bend a valve and another common one at about that mileage is a broken valve spring. That said, a timing belt is still first thing I think of.
I havnt read here what engine you have, and there was 2 different engine codes (8th digit of the VIN ) around that year there was a TSB about the fuel pressure regulator
I havnt read here what engine you have, and there was 2 different engine codes (8th digit of the VIN ) around that year there was a TSB about the fuel pressure regulator
yes that is the carrier bearing, it does need a press, if you don’t need a press then there are problems with the shaft being wore at the bearing. Not sure why i feel it needs saying but if you don’t have it on jack stands then block the wheels so it doesn’t roll when you disconnect the drive shaft. Some idiot did that in this town years ago and ran himself over.
As for marking the drive shaft before removing it I know every manual tells you that but I have no evidence it makes any difference, U joint yokes yes but the shaft is neutral ballanced off the vehicle when it is made.yes that is the carrier bearing, it does need a press, if you don’t need a press then there are problems with the shaft being wore at the bearing. Not sure why i feel it needs saying but if you don’t have it on jack stands then block the wheels so it doesn’t roll when you disconnect the drive shaft. Some idiot did that in this town years ago and ran himself over.
As for marking the drive shaft before removing it I know every manual tells you that but I have no evidence it makes any difference, U joint yokes yes but the shaft is neutral ballanced off the vehicle when it is made.You said “same symptoms” what are the symptoms? I have seen thermostats die early from not bleeding out the system and steam will result from the air pockets, steam can blow a hole in a rad so it sure can kill a thermostat. If your symptom is lack of heat check Erics video on cleaning out a heater core.
You said “same symptoms” what are the symptoms? I have seen thermostats die early from not bleeding out the system and steam will result from the air pockets, steam can blow a hole in a rad so it sure can kill a thermostat. If your symptom is lack of heat check Erics video on cleaning out a heater core.
It can be very costly to check a stud properly by a metalurgist and they damage it by testing it, if your studs are questionable then just change them. I decide they have been overtorqued when the threads get deformed and the nut does not spin by hand on the open threads, then replace the stud and nut, many times you can see the seat for the nut on the rim is deformed also. As for torque bars, they are accurate, the problem is almost nobody reads the damn instructions, they limit the output of your impact gun by a percentage, you have to set you impact to make them accurate and keep rechecking the accuracy periodically. Personally I do not like the bars. Too many factors can change the accuracy, if you have lower air pressure before and after the compressor cycles, if you get wear in your gun, etc. Trusty torque wrench on every wheel nut is how I roll.
It can be very costly to check a stud properly by a metalurgist and they damage it by testing it, if your studs are questionable then just change them. I decide they have been overtorqued when the threads get deformed and the nut does not spin by hand on the open threads, then replace the stud and nut, many times you can see the seat for the nut on the rim is deformed also. As for torque bars, they are accurate, the problem is almost nobody reads the damn instructions, they limit the output of your impact gun by a percentage, you have to set you impact to make them accurate and keep rechecking the accuracy periodically. Personally I do not like the bars. Too many factors can change the accuracy, if you have lower air pressure before and after the compressor cycles, if you get wear in your gun, etc. Trusty torque wrench on every wheel nut is how I roll.
No offence to plumbers when since the beginning of time, shit rolls down hill, pay day is thursday, and dont lick your fingers, then electricians that black wire goes here and white goes there. And both respectable trades only have a tool box you can carry. Mechanics have a calling, sure as hell we don’t do it for the money.
No offence to plumbers when since the beginning of time, shit rolls down hill, pay day is thursday, and dont lick your fingers, then electricians that black wire goes here and white goes there. And both respectable trades only have a tool box you can carry. Mechanics have a calling, sure as hell we don’t do it for the money.
and for wheels that are usually 80 or 100 ft lb, i suggest a wrench that goes to 250 lb, the mid range is the most accurate
and for wheels that are usually 80 or 100 ft lb, i suggest a wrench that goes to 250 lb, the mid range is the most accurate
If it is just for wheels then get the cheapest click type torque wrench you can get in a 1/2 inch drive, a couple or even afew pounds off are not a big deal. If you use it on an angine part or something that needs total accuracy then get a good one and take care of it.