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I have seen the upper and lower control arm bushings go bad on those and cause that feel, best checked at ride height but that can be hard to do, I would just replace them all if you think it might be there. Best way i found to check them is get a friend to hold the brake just enough so it doesnt move and shift from drive to reverse and repeat, then you can see them shift in and out.
I have seen the upper and lower control arm bushings go bad on those and cause that feel, best checked at ride height but that can be hard to do, I would just replace them all if you think it might be there. Best way i found to check them is get a friend to hold the brake just enough so it doesnt move and shift from drive to reverse and repeat, then you can see them shift in and out.
Noises, most annoying gremlin ever
customer complains about a “noise when driving” You hear a noise and find it, customer approves the repair, customer comes back and it is one of the other 10 noises his 15 year old unmaintained POS is making, and worse when it actually only does it stopped and in gear, that is not while driving. Since my shop opened I make the customer come with me and point it out, It is usually not doing it with a tech in the car either, lol
Noises, most annoying gremlin ever
customer complains about a “noise when driving” You hear a noise and find it, customer approves the repair, customer comes back and it is one of the other 10 noises his 15 year old unmaintained POS is making, and worse when it actually only does it stopped and in gear, that is not while driving. Since my shop opened I make the customer come with me and point it out, It is usually not doing it with a tech in the car either, lol
I agree with checking suspension, if a control arm bushing for example is bad i have seen it feel like that, you never said year, make, and model. might help to identify common problems to that vehicle
I agree with checking suspension, if a control arm bushing for example is bad i have seen it feel like that, you never said year, make, and model. might help to identify common problems to that vehicle
I usually replace rotors since they are so cheap. If they are the more expensive ones then I will machine them. This is mostly for noise from that rust ridge that is always there after a while. If the customer refuses to spend the money I will just reuse the rotors as is, as long as they measure out good and there are no groves etc. If they are groved or undersize then they have no choice.
As for an earlier comment about liability we have a strange system here. If you are not a liscenced mechanic and it goes terribly wrong you can not be prosicuted, just taken to small claims court for the cost of the labor only, which is never worth it. If you have a mechanics liscence and you screwed it up then you can be prosicuted for any resulting damage of the car and whatever the car hit, and negligence causing death if that happens, thats 10 years in prison right away. Then anyone involved can sue the hell out of you. Someone can persue an unliscenced person but it usually doesnt go anywhere.I usually replace rotors since they are so cheap. If they are the more expensive ones then I will machine them. This is mostly for noise from that rust ridge that is always there after a while. If the customer refuses to spend the money I will just reuse the rotors as is, as long as they measure out good and there are no groves etc. If they are groved or undersize then they have no choice.
As for an earlier comment about liability we have a strange system here. If you are not a liscenced mechanic and it goes terribly wrong you can not be prosicuted, just taken to small claims court for the cost of the labor only, which is never worth it. If you have a mechanics liscence and you screwed it up then you can be prosicuted for any resulting damage of the car and whatever the car hit, and negligence causing death if that happens, thats 10 years in prison right away. Then anyone involved can sue the hell out of you. Someone can persue an unliscenced person but it usually doesnt go anywhere.I just looked at the wiring diagram for that vehicle, looks like you might have just melted part of the ignition switch together. There are 4 sections in that switch, everything that you said does not work is on one section, 2 other sections melted together from shorting the battery would keep DRL and everything needed to run live all the time. So should be simple as change the ignition switch.
I just looked at the wiring diagram for that vehicle, looks like you might have just melted part of the ignition switch together. There are 4 sections in that switch, everything that you said does not work is on one section, 2 other sections melted together from shorting the battery would keep DRL and everything needed to run live all the time. So should be simple as change the ignition switch.
Looks and sounds like one I had to fix. It ended up being a bad clutch disk, a torsional spring in the disk broke. Also had one kind of like that and it was exhaust hitting a shield under the car when it flexed. Sounds more like the clutch though.
Looks and sounds like one I had to fix. It ended up being a bad clutch disk, a torsional spring in the disk broke. Also had one kind of like that and it was exhaust hitting a shield under the car when it flexed. Sounds more like the clutch though.
I have seen those engines eat the blades off the waterpump before, they don’t cost much for a pump and are easy to change, hardest part is getting the gasket lined up to the right place. If not a pump then I would lean toward the start of a head gasket leak.
I have seen those engines eat the blades off the waterpump before, they don’t cost much for a pump and are easy to change, hardest part is getting the gasket lined up to the right place. If not a pump then I would lean toward the start of a head gasket leak.
I agree with checking the timing belt, if it jumped a tooth it can do that. also a compression test, I have seen 2 common valve problems with them, chunk of carbon breaks loose and slightly bend a valve and another common one at about that mileage is a broken valve spring. That said, a timing belt is still first thing I think of.