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I don’t own a timing light but I’ll see if I can borrow one.
I did run some fuel injector cleaner through the fuel system as described in my initial post but obviously the injector might still be dirty/faulty.Preliminary fuel pressure test results are in.
I used Eric’s “Solving Engine Performance Issues (Part 1)” as a guide.Turned the key on and checked pressure (engine off) = 2,8bar
Engine idling = 2,9bar
Snap the throttle = Pressure momentarily drops to 2,5barI tested with the coolant temp sensor connected and disconnected.
The results are the same although the throttle snap will cause much more pressure fluctuation with the sensor connected.
(The pressure will jump up and down between 2,5bar and 2,9bar for a while when the throttle is snapped with the sensor connected)Snapping the throttle with the temp sensor connected really takes it’s toll on the engine.
A hard fast snap on the throttle will make the engine die.
When the coolant temp sensor is disconnected the engine runs great – snapping the throttle, no problem.My Haynes manual states that the fuel pump pressure should be 1 bar for my engine (B18U) so that’s odd.
I’ll do some more tests on the fuel pressure tomorrow – I’ll also have a look at the MAP and throttle body rubber mount.
Is it possible to post a video to this forum?
To the best of my knowledge my car does not have a cold start injector.
I can track the fuel lines coming from the tank and they only attach to the single point injection unit. (see attachments)The only 2 hoses that connects to the air intake duct are vacuum hoses. One hose operates a damper in the air filter box, the other connects alongside the other vacuum hoses on the rear of the block (facing the passenger compartment)
Thanks for the input though.
To the best of my knowledge my car does not have a cold start injector.
I can track the fuel lines coming from the tank and they only attach to the single point injection unit. (see attachments)The only 2 hoses that connects to the air intake duct are vacuum hoses. One hose operates a damper in the air filter box, the other connects alongside the other vacuum hoses on the rear of the block (facing the passenger compartment)
Thanks for the input though.
I’ll have another look at the MAP sensor this weekend.
The readings from the MAP sensor were as follows last time:
0 = 4,8V
-100mBar = 4,28V
-200mBar = 3,77V
-300mBar = 3,26V
-400mBar = 2,7V
-500mBar = 2,2V
-600mBar = 1,7V
-700mBar = 1,17VThis time I think I’ll run a wire from the MAP sensor to the dashboard and monitor the signal with my multimeter while I drive.
What do you make of the oil smelling like petrol?
Do you think it’s simply due to the car running rich?By the way, this morning and this afternoon the car started right up (not flooded).
I’ll keep an eye on this from now on.
The hesitation and jerking on acceleration with cold engine was still present though.I’ll have another look at the MAP sensor this weekend.
The readings from the MAP sensor were as follows last time:
0 = 4,8V
-100mBar = 4,28V
-200mBar = 3,77V
-300mBar = 3,26V
-400mBar = 2,7V
-500mBar = 2,2V
-600mBar = 1,7V
-700mBar = 1,17VThis time I think I’ll run a wire from the MAP sensor to the dashboard and monitor the signal with my multimeter while I drive.
What do you make of the oil smelling like petrol?
Do you think it’s simply due to the car running rich?By the way, this morning and this afternoon the car started right up (not flooded).
I’ll keep an eye on this from now on.
The hesitation and jerking on acceleration with cold engine was still present though.Does it seem like the car is flooded when you’re trying to start it?
Now that you mention it. Yes, it takes a few seconds before it fires when it has been standing for a while.Does the uneven idle smooth out if you feather the accelerator?
Yes, if by feather you mean push the accelerator slightly.Does the exhaust smell petrolly?
Yes, see 3) in my initial postHave you had a rise in petrol consumption?
Yes, see 4) in my initial postAlso, do an engine compression test, just to be sure.
I’ll see if I can get a hold of the required tools.I already replaced the coolant temp sensor. See I) in my initial post.
One more thing that I’ve noticed.
If I disconnect the coolant temp sensor, the green lambda triangle in the dashboard turns on – the car enters limb mode.
This pretty much eradicates problem 2) “Hesitation on acceleration” and makes the car much better to drive.I’ll be sure to study your two links.
Thank you for your patience and perseverance. Much obliged.
Does it seem like the car is flooded when you’re trying to start it?
Now that you mention it. Yes, it takes a few seconds before it fires when it has been standing for a while.Does the uneven idle smooth out if you feather the accelerator?
Yes, if by feather you mean push the accelerator slightly.Does the exhaust smell petrolly?
Yes, see 3) in my initial postHave you had a rise in petrol consumption?
Yes, see 4) in my initial postAlso, do an engine compression test, just to be sure.
I’ll see if I can get a hold of the required tools.I already replaced the coolant temp sensor. See I) in my initial post.
One more thing that I’ve noticed.
If I disconnect the coolant temp sensor, the green lambda triangle in the dashboard turns on – the car enters limb mode.
This pretty much eradicates problem 2) “Hesitation on acceleration” and makes the car much better to drive.I’ll be sure to study your two links.
Thank you for your patience and perseverance. Much obliged.
I just finished disassembling, cleaning and reassembling the fuel pressure regulator.
Everything looked fine as far as I could tell. See attached photos.I didn’t have the nerve to remove the membrane in fear of tearing it to pieces.
My oil does smell like petrol.
I don’t see any way of removing the vacuum connection to the FPR.The fuel pressure test is still pending as I need to find some hose fittings suited for the job.
I already have the gauge and a Tee-fitting.I just finished disassembling, cleaning and reassembling the fuel pressure regulator.
Everything looked fine as far as I could tell. See attached photos.I didn’t have the nerve to remove the membrane in fear of tearing it to pieces.
My oil does smell like petrol.
I don’t see any way of removing the vacuum connection to the FPR.The fuel pressure test is still pending as I need to find some hose fittings suited for the job.
I already have the gauge and a Tee-fitting.I have tested the canister purge (EVAP) valve (see P and Q in my first post)
The fuel system diagnosis was performed by means of the small diagnostic box mounted behind the left-side strut tower in the engine compartment. I could hear the EVAP valve clicking so I suspect it’s ok.I can’t find any pinched wires, hoses or connectors. I even lowered the tank a second time to do a visual inspection, but everything looked ok.
I’ll see if I can get a hold of a fuel pressure gauge to test the fuel pump pressure.
Thanks for your input.
I have tested the canister purge (EVAP) valve (see P and Q in my first post)
The fuel system diagnosis was performed by means of the small diagnostic box mounted behind the left-side strut tower in the engine compartment. I could hear the EVAP valve clicking so I suspect it’s ok.I can’t find any pinched wires, hoses or connectors. I even lowered the tank a second time to do a visual inspection, but everything looked ok.
I’ll see if I can get a hold of a fuel pressure gauge to test the fuel pump pressure.
Thanks for your input.
