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Sorry i though i posted more of an update, I know im getting exhaust gases in the cooling system cause the over flow will bubble or just over flow. I can smell exhaust gases when i open the radiator cap. The misfire comes and goes some days its very noticeable some days just a little. But not having heat or intermittent heat sucks when its only single degrees out side. yes i would hate to spend money for something its not. I have also swapped cyl 5 fuel injector just in case with a known good one gasket for upper-intake is new and good. some im pretty sure on the exhaust side the head gasket is broken. also for compression test i only test cyl 5 and cyl 1. Cyl 5 was 100-psi and Cyl 1 was 120-psi.
After thinking on this and test a few more things im pretty sure the head gasket is gone, i just done have about $3,000 to get it fixed and i have had this truck since 2007 and was my first vehicle. If there is any one that would like to help i do have a go fund me account. just wondering if any one could help thanks.
https://www.gofundme.com/6bgzfqssI cant tell if plug smells like gas or coolant. But now i am noticing exhaust gases in the coolant (or i think it is) it is bubbling and giving me a no heat issue. I don’t seem to be losing coolant cause after the coolant flush i had 4 gallons to put in i still have 1 and a quarter coolant left. The oil is clean and not milky at all. I’m just stupid and the miss fire comes and goes. I’m still thinking head gasket but not sure
Oh and i forgot to mention that i did a compression test on cylinder 5 which was 100 PSI and also on cylinder 1 (for comparison) that was at 120PSI. So yeah im still stuck i know 100 psi is low but it also did not drop and i left it on for about 5 minutes or so.
Sorry for such a late response on this topic, just wanted to update anyone that may have been tracking this. I bought the transfer case motor about a month ago. That being said once i swapped the motor out, which you have to transfer wires from the speed sensor mounted to the transfer case. Which i just unbolted it all off the transfer case which was the easiest way to go, instead of being under the truck. I have determined it was the motor even though the motor was good but the sensor that are in the motor assembly telling the PCM where the motor is at (2H, 4H, or 4L) failed. Now that i have the motor swapped and all wires and sensors mounted correctly the A4WD, 4H and 4L works like brand new with no more flashing 4×4 light or other issues. So thanks for all the input and if any one else that has the same year of Expedition or with just the A4wd i hope this may help you out. One last note the part i got was dorman 600-802 $65.41 from amazon, and with basic socket wrench with 3″ extionsion and 10mm socket and truck on ramps took me less then 2hrs. So this concludes this issue SOLVED! banana:
Sorry for such a late response on this topic, just wanted to update anyone that may have been tracking this. I bought the transfer case motor about a month ago. That being said once i swapped the motor out, which you have to transfer wires from the speed sensor mounted to the transfer case. Which i just unbolted it all off the transfer case which was the easiest way to go, instead of being under the truck. I have determined it was the motor even though the motor was good but the sensor that are in the motor assembly telling the PCM where the motor is at (2H, 4H, or 4L) failed. Now that i have the motor swapped and all wires and sensors mounted correctly the A4WD, 4H and 4L works like brand new with no more flashing 4×4 light or other issues. So thanks for all the input and if any one else that has the same year of Expedition or with just the A4wd i hope this may help you out. One last note the part i got was dorman 600-802 $65.41 from amazon, and with basic socket wrench with 3″ extionsion and 10mm socket and truck on ramps took me less then 2hrs. So this concludes this issue SOLVED! banana:
ok makes since, now if i did it now and stored then but stored the o-rings in some fuel would that protect them or just buy new o-rings when i put them in. or just waiting tell about 2 week or so tell i need to re-place them if needed is best, thanks for the advice.
ok makes since, now if i did it now and stored then but stored the o-rings in some fuel would that protect them or just buy new o-rings when i put them in. or just waiting tell about 2 week or so tell i need to re-place them if needed is best, thanks for the advice.
I know its been a while since i posted on this issue but its been kinda on going and could not figure it out, but i think i finally figured it out last night. Was coming home and it was missing on me again. so i popped the hood open and was going to look around while it was missing, and as i started to look i heard a ticking noise. I think you know where this is going. then it stopped and engine was running fine, go figure. so i started to dig some more got my bottle of water out starting to spray the wires, and saw a spark shoot out the spark plug boot. Took the wire off (after shutting truck down of course). inspected the wire and the silicone on the top of the boot wire the wire goes in is cracked. Now this are NGK wires, i just had some electrical tape where the silicone was cracked, seems to work, but do you think it will hold for long or should i get another wire for that cylinder or just another set for all, NGK wire are good i know but not cheap for just one wire. The Wires are only 9 months old. But thanks for all the help on this, if its still not fixed then i have more digging to do but i think on what this topic was for i believe it is. Just goes to show some times if the good products can fail, and should check every thing you can think of, including wires that are less then a year old.
I know its been a while since i posted on this issue but its been kinda on going and could not figure it out, but i think i finally figured it out last night. Was coming home and it was missing on me again. so i popped the hood open and was going to look around while it was missing, and as i started to look i heard a ticking noise. I think you know where this is going. then it stopped and engine was running fine, go figure. so i started to dig some more got my bottle of water out starting to spray the wires, and saw a spark shoot out the spark plug boot. Took the wire off (after shutting truck down of course). inspected the wire and the silicone on the top of the boot wire the wire goes in is cracked. Now this are NGK wires, i just had some electrical tape where the silicone was cracked, seems to work, but do you think it will hold for long or should i get another wire for that cylinder or just another set for all, NGK wire are good i know but not cheap for just one wire. The Wires are only 9 months old. But thanks for all the help on this, if its still not fixed then i have more digging to do but i think on what this topic was for i believe it is. Just goes to show some times if the good products can fail, and should check every thing you can think of, including wires that are less then a year old.
Thanks, i did the power balance test and it past, i was also wondering if the coil could be bad, but could it fail then work fine again. what i am noticing is that it happens more after i am driving and loading the engine, not to hard but enough to load the coil. So again what i am asking is could the coil be bad but only be bad sometimes and not all the time, no bare in mind i do have 2 coils the stock one and a Screamin demon coil they both do the same thing so i may be looking and injectors. or bad plug. Thanks again.
Thanks, i did the power balance test and it past, i was also wondering if the coil could be bad, but could it fail then work fine again. what i am noticing is that it happens more after i am driving and loading the engine, not to hard but enough to load the coil. So again what i am asking is could the coil be bad but only be bad sometimes and not all the time, no bare in mind i do have 2 coils the stock one and a Screamin demon coil they both do the same thing so i may be looking and injectors. or bad plug. Thanks again.
Yes i have used Injector cleaner, B-12 chemtool on every fill up since then and it still is doing it, had if you can explain a motorvac cleaning a little more please. more i read i think it may be a bad coil pack, i need to test it still, if any one has a idea of the ohm resistance of the coil pack on each bank would be nice but im sure each bank need to be about the same.
Yes i have used Injector cleaner, B-12 chemtool on every fill up since then and it still is doing it, had if you can explain a motorvac cleaning a little more please. more i read i think it may be a bad coil pack, i need to test it still, if any one has a idea of the ohm resistance of the coil pack on each bank would be nice but im sure each bank need to be about the same.
Thanks again Eric, there is sensors in the motor and i am think that is what is not reading right, so the Computer is not sure where the motor is, when i get the time and the weather to replace it i will let you know how it went. Why do things have to break in winter..lol. As of right now i have it locked into 4wd and its working but i know its not good for it past 55mph so yeah weather permitting hoping to get to it soon, thanks again