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What are you drilling into? I have not done it myself but I’ve seen guys crack cylinder heads trying to cut tapered threads, especially if it’s being done in a corner or area where there is not much material. It can be done but it takes patience.
Oh on the interrupted thread tap, it helps prevent chipping and reduces outward stress.
[quote=”Rereonehundred” post=125658]Can you tell us more about reaming for a taper and interrupted taps?
In any NPT (National Pipe Thread) tapping I’ve done, the hole is just drilled normally with a twist bit giving parallel sides to the hole with no taper. The tap has the taper built into it and cuts the taper, which is only 3/4″ per foot..
And example is in this link. http://www.engineersedge.com/manufacturing/pipe-tap-drill-chart.htm%5B/quote%5D
[quote=”Rereonehundred” post=125461]If it were a car I cared about, I might have sought out a tapered pipe tap for that hole into the coolant passage, then had a local machine shop make up a correct stud with one end having the matching thread taper.[/quote]
The problem is you’d have to ream a tapered hole in the cylinder head to the correct bore, then use an interrupted thread tap and hope you didn’t crack the cylinder head. It can work but a lot of points of potential failure.[quote=”Rereonehundred” post=125461]If it were a car I cared about, I might have sought out a tapered pipe tap for that hole into the coolant passage, then had a local machine shop make up a correct stud with one end having the matching thread taper.[/quote]
The problem is you’d have to ream a tapered hole in the cylinder head to the correct bore, then use an interrupted thread tap and hope you didn’t crack the cylinder head. It can work but a lot of points of potential failure.[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=46036]Hold on there, I never said conventional oil was better. What I did say was that if your engine is old and worn and you decide to run synthetic that those problems may get worse in the form of increased engine noise, more oil leaks, and possibly burning more oil.[/quote]
The oil leak issue yes I agree with this. BUT, if you persist and continue to use a fully synthetic, with some luck the sludge and build up (especially on the crank/cam seals) will slowly be removed and the leaking will stop. I’ve personally had this happen, and I’ve had synthetic oil slowly but surely stop a valve seal leak issue. On the increased noise, I have not experienced this, instead I’ve had the opposite, switching to a fully synthetic quieted the engine down, nothing dramatic but some. This must be engine specific because I have not experienced it.A couple of specific examples of how a synthetic can help in the long run. Toyota Camry, 5S-FE engine. Car has about 200k miles. Runs well, but smokes on startup after a cold soak. Lots of smoke, but the engine does not burn oil otherwise. Switching to a fully synthetic all but eliminated the problem, or at least reduced 90%. It didn’t happen overnight, in fact it took the better part of a year which in this case was around 8,000 miles. In that time I changed the oil twice, which is a shorter OCI then most people do. I did the timing belt, crank/cam seals, oil pump seals, and valve cover gasket, which was leaking some. Zero leaks now, engine is completely dry.
Toyota Celica, with the infamous 1ZZ-FE engine, 150k miles. For those that don’t know, this engine has poor oil control due to carbon and sludge buildup around the oil rings and oil holes in the pistons (there are not enough of them). Engine burned significant amounts of oil, 1 liter or more per 1000 miles. I ran Seafoam for about 600 miles, then changed the oil to Castrol Syntec. In the next 10k miles or so, oil consumption has dropped significantly to the point where it is not an issue, between a 5K OCI, the engine will use 0.5-1.0 liter of oil, which is vastly better and I would consider this acceptable. The engine does not leak any oil (did not change any gaskets) but the 1ZZ is known to be very good as far as not being a leaky engine.
On my own cars, I only run synthetic and find that especially in very cold weather, the engine is happier and starts easier. So the lesson for me is, Synthetic is easily worth the extra money. If you have an engine that is prone to sludge (there have been many) then to me synthetic oil is especially important here, it is much more resistant to sludging/buildup/carbon deposits. If your car is frequently driven for short trips, then synthetic oil is much, much better. Conventional oil loves to sludge up in this scenario, especially engines prone to it.
I’m sold on synthetic oil and won’t use anything else. I don’t see any downside at all except cost, which to me is extremely cheap insurance. One other thing worth mentioning is a fully synthetic does not break down as easily under high heat/stress conditions, so if you live in a very hot climate your engine will thank you.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=46036]Hold on there, I never said conventional oil was better. What I did say was that if your engine is old and worn and you decide to run synthetic that those problems may get worse in the form of increased engine noise, more oil leaks, and possibly burning more oil.[/quote]
The oil leak issue yes I agree with this. BUT, if you persist and continue to use a fully synthetic, with some luck the sludge and build up (especially on the crank/cam seals) will slowly be removed and the leaking will stop. I’ve personally had this happen, and I’ve had synthetic oil slowly but surely stop a valve seal leak issue. On the increased noise, I have not experienced this, instead I’ve had the opposite, switching to a fully synthetic quieted the engine down, nothing dramatic but some. This must be engine specific because I have not experienced it.A couple of specific examples of how a synthetic can help in the long run. Toyota Camry, 5S-FE engine. Car has about 200k miles. Runs well, but smokes on startup after a cold soak. Lots of smoke, but the engine does not burn oil otherwise. Switching to a fully synthetic all but eliminated the problem, or at least reduced 90%. It didn’t happen overnight, in fact it took the better part of a year which in this case was around 8,000 miles. In that time I changed the oil twice, which is a shorter OCI then most people do. I did the timing belt, crank/cam seals, oil pump seals, and valve cover gasket, which was leaking some. Zero leaks now, engine is completely dry.
Toyota Celica, with the infamous 1ZZ-FE engine, 150k miles. For those that don’t know, this engine has poor oil control due to carbon and sludge buildup around the oil rings and oil holes in the pistons (there are not enough of them). Engine burned significant amounts of oil, 1 liter or more per 1000 miles. I ran Seafoam for about 600 miles, then changed the oil to Castrol Syntec. In the next 10k miles or so, oil consumption has dropped significantly to the point where it is not an issue, between a 5K OCI, the engine will use 0.5-1.0 liter of oil, which is vastly better and I would consider this acceptable. The engine does not leak any oil (did not change any gaskets) but the 1ZZ is known to be very good as far as not being a leaky engine.
On my own cars, I only run synthetic and find that especially in very cold weather, the engine is happier and starts easier. So the lesson for me is, Synthetic is easily worth the extra money. If you have an engine that is prone to sludge (there have been many) then to me synthetic oil is especially important here, it is much more resistant to sludging/buildup/carbon deposits. If your car is frequently driven for short trips, then synthetic oil is much, much better. Conventional oil loves to sludge up in this scenario, especially engines prone to it.
I’m sold on synthetic oil and won’t use anything else. I don’t see any downside at all except cost, which to me is extremely cheap insurance. One other thing worth mentioning is a fully synthetic does not break down as easily under high heat/stress conditions, so if you live in a very hot climate your engine will thank you.
I could be wrong, but it looks to me like the play had nothing to do with the axles at all. It does seem like too much play in carrier bearing, but honestly on my ’93 Camry V6 it is about the same. When I went to replace the left side axle awhile back, the first I thing I thought to myself was, that seems like too much play. But I checked out several similar cars at the junkyard and there were pretty much all the same so I concluded it was normal. On the Toyota to adjust the preload you have to install or remove shims there is no external adjustment like your Subaru.
But I see no reason to adjust them if there is no unusual noises or other issues. That bearing doesn’t have much lateral load stress on it, so my theory is it’s adjusted the way it is for a reason, you don’t want a bearing too tight or excessive friction will destroy it. Why fix something that isn’t broken?
On the roll pin aka spring pin, the original was a much better design I would have reused that instead. My prediction is replacing the axles will do nothing to cure or help your hesitation issue, but I hope it does that kind of thing can be very annoying.
I could be wrong, but it looks to me like the play had nothing to do with the axles at all. It does seem like too much play in carrier bearing, but honestly on my ’93 Camry V6 it is about the same. When I went to replace the left side axle awhile back, the first I thing I thought to myself was, that seems like too much play. But I checked out several similar cars at the junkyard and there were pretty much all the same so I concluded it was normal. On the Toyota to adjust the preload you have to install or remove shims there is no external adjustment like your Subaru.
But I see no reason to adjust them if there is no unusual noises or other issues. That bearing doesn’t have much lateral load stress on it, so my theory is it’s adjusted the way it is for a reason, you don’t want a bearing too tight or excessive friction will destroy it. Why fix something that isn’t broken?
On the roll pin aka spring pin, the original was a much better design I would have reused that instead. My prediction is replacing the axles will do nothing to cure or help your hesitation issue, but I hope it does that kind of thing can be very annoying.
Flushing a transmission is easy when there is a dipstick tube. You simply remove the return line from the tranny cooler and direct that into a container. Have someone start the engine, the transmission fluid will be pumped out, as that happens you add fluid. When the fluid appears clean you shut the engine off, that’s it. I’ve used this method many times without issue, there is no risk of damaging anything because the fluid is being replenished as it comes out. You are also not pumping fluid through the transmission at any higher pressure than normal because the tranny is doing the work for you.
The only way I can see that above being an issue is if your transmission is so far gone that the clutch material floating around in the oil is the only thing keeping it from slipping. But if that is the case, I don’t expect the tranny to last much longer anyway.
I agree with you Eric that the industry is moving more and more to a modular approach (same as many other industries) but that doesn’t mean we have to like it! If I ever had a car with no dipstick tube I would try to find a way to add one, or I wouldn’t buy the car in the first place.
Flushing a transmission is easy when there is a dipstick tube. You simply remove the return line from the tranny cooler and direct that into a container. Have someone start the engine, the transmission fluid will be pumped out, as that happens you add fluid. When the fluid appears clean you shut the engine off, that’s it. I’ve used this method many times without issue, there is no risk of damaging anything because the fluid is being replenished as it comes out. You are also not pumping fluid through the transmission at any higher pressure than normal because the tranny is doing the work for you.
The only way I can see that above being an issue is if your transmission is so far gone that the clutch material floating around in the oil is the only thing keeping it from slipping. But if that is the case, I don’t expect the tranny to last much longer anyway.
I agree with you Eric that the industry is moving more and more to a modular approach (same as many other industries) but that doesn’t mean we have to like it! If I ever had a car with no dipstick tube I would try to find a way to add one, or I wouldn’t buy the car in the first place.
A wire brush on the threads would have done nothing. The Stud broke because of the split nut used by Toyota, they are designed to be used once and replaced. You can reuse them, but often when you put them back they will strip the threads of the stud. The way to avoid this is to inspect each nut after removal, and try to hand thread them onto a known good stud to make sure they are usable. The idea solution would be to just simply replace the nuts with a conventional style part.
A wire brush on the threads would have done nothing. The Stud broke because of the split nut used by Toyota, they are designed to be used once and replaced. You can reuse them, but often when you put them back they will strip the threads of the stud. The way to avoid this is to inspect each nut after removal, and try to hand thread them onto a known good stud to make sure they are usable. The idea solution would be to just simply replace the nuts with a conventional style part.
Typical of the exhaust nuts Toyota uses, they don’t like to go back on, they are considered one time use for a reason. Dumb dumb design. Maxlife is spec’d for Toyota WS, it’s a good fluid, although there are better out there if you’re willing to pay for them. Personally if that was my vehicle I would put in Royal Purple ATF, it’s not cheap but considering the pain in the neck job it is to swap out the fluid, may as well spend the extra cash. It’s about $10-12/quart BTW.
What is the total capacity of the transmission? A full flush would be better, done by accessing the tranny cooler lines, although I don’t know exactly how one would go about making sure the transmission is being filled with fluid as the old stuff is being pumped out. I always use the dipstick tube for that, without out it could be an issue.
Don’t ask me why auto makers are removing dipsticks, it makes no sense to me except they are trying to prevent the average guy from doing his own maintenance.
Typical of the exhaust nuts Toyota uses, they don’t like to go back on, they are considered one time use for a reason. Dumb dumb design. Maxlife is spec’d for Toyota WS, it’s a good fluid, although there are better out there if you’re willing to pay for them. Personally if that was my vehicle I would put in Royal Purple ATF, it’s not cheap but considering the pain in the neck job it is to swap out the fluid, may as well spend the extra cash. It’s about $10-12/quart BTW.
What is the total capacity of the transmission? A full flush would be better, done by accessing the tranny cooler lines, although I don’t know exactly how one would go about making sure the transmission is being filled with fluid as the old stuff is being pumped out. I always use the dipstick tube for that, without out it could be an issue.
Don’t ask me why auto makers are removing dipsticks, it makes no sense to me except they are trying to prevent the average guy from doing his own maintenance.