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Yeah buddy, don’t know how it got in there either. The seals on the tank were good and haven’t had any problems since so the only thing I can think of is where I got it.
Well we figured it out guys, it had a half a tank full of water and a bad tps sensor to boot.
Was just wondering if this issue is common and, if it is, what causes it.
It has spark on all cylinders. Wont start with starting fluid, just sputters more. Compression is good on all cylinders and I know its getting air. Its getting Spark, air, has compression, and is in time mechanically. The only thing left is fuel or a sensor screwing some stuff up.
Tank is rustier than hell lol but the pump is putting out the 13psi that it should so I have no idea where to go from here. Wonder if it could be a warped intake manifold of a bad intake manifold gasket. It also has the infamous puff of blue smoke on startup (valve seals), I wonder if that could be fouling my plugs in the morning?
Ok, I checked the TPS and it is fine. Pulled my fuel filter and the gas on the inlet side is rusty. I’m going to assume that my tank is rusted up due to sitting for so many years. If there is rust suspended in the gas, the filter bag on the bottom of the pump is probably clogged causing a fuel starvation issue. I’ll check my fuel pressure and if it comes back low ima drop the tank. Ill let you guys know how it goes.
No I haven’t checked the fuel pressure yet, that’s something I was planning on doing this weekend. From my understanding, the TPS works like a potentiometer. Would I go about testing it in the same manner?
Oh lol, it’s been replaced too. You see, a while back the truck ran extremely rich, by rich I mean it was dumping fuel like it was at full throttle all the time. I parked it and it sat for a year. When I came back to it the truck wasn’t running at all and it turned out be the pickup coil magnet being shattered. One distributor later and the truck ran like normal again. During the course of diagnosing the pickup coil, a lot of stuff got replaced. The only thing sensor related that hasn’t been replaced is the map sensor, tps, knock sensor, and the temp gauge sensor for the reading in the dash. The one by the thermostat housing has been.
There are also no codes.
What is the ect sensor?
The timing was checked with the ignition advance wire unplugged and the timing light hooked to plug one. The light shown the factory spec of 0degrees on the balancer.Hey Eric, I have an old 1988 c1500 with a 305 5.0L engine. The issue I am having is there is hesitation from the motor in light throttle to part throttle conditions. It seems that this situation is worse when the engine is cold. It also likes the gasoline. I am getting 13mpg highway driving like an old lady. Things that I have replaced; Brake cylinders and calipers all the way round and new pads and shoes to eliminate my drag issue and they needed replaced, aircleaner, temp sensor, O2 sensor. The motor picked up a little bit with the new O2 sensor but there is still the issue with hesitation at part to light throttle. Any help is appreciated and as always, be safe, have fun and stay dirty!
Found one on ebay used for 79 and they will tune it to my vehicles vin. Even at that I can get a new one at autozone for 180. Anyone know how much a shop would charge to tune a new pcm/ecm?
Well bad news, I need a new pcm. I traced the wire down and found that the pin for the purge valve is always grounded car on or off. Its supposed to be a switched circuit. 🙁 Well thanks for all the help, Im going to unplug the valve for right now and drive it as is until I can afford to buy a pcm and get it programmed.
Nvm guys I found a link. Here it is http://www.firebirdnation.com/forums/topic/342426-links-94-and-98-factory-manuals/
has everything for the fourth gen firebirds.Well guys I found the problem. The ground switch side for the purge valve is grounding out when i move the harness. Now to find a diagram for the wire. If anyone can assist me in this I would greatly appreciate it.
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