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[Ryan]

[quote=”Jotmon1″ post=151559]And check the grounding starting at the battery terminal.

Here is a link.

Thank You Jotmon1! Should have went back to this post after I checked the rest and listened to you in the first place!
I finally got around to messing with it again due to unseasonably warm weather. After charging and testing the battery, (it isn’t that old). Using a spark tester on, coil, dist cap, and plugs & wires (all good). Opening schrader valve to check for fuel pressure. (there was none obviously due to fuel pump not turning on) And, using a logic probe to test all fuses,as well as ignition switch, I happened to lean on Neg. cable while checking to make sure the plug wires were tight, and I hear the fuel pump turn on!!!!

Changed the Neg cable & she turned right over!!
I’d rather be lucky than smart sometimes I guess. :silly:

Thanks again! Hope this helps someone else as well!

[Ryan]

Radiator Cap……. Figures I just missed the parts store by 15 min.

Why is it I always forget this simple piece of technology? Cuz I assume the worst & hope for the best.

Lets hope this takes care if it. I can deal with no heat til I can flush the heater core I guess. She’s gurgling.

[Ryan]

Well, Got it done…… Or so I thought. The Ol’ Nipple trick worked great!

However…………….
I went to flush the system & discovered my T-stat was stuck open. No heat. Cold bottom radiator hose, so I replaced the TS.
ran it up to temp again only to discover that I not only had no heat, but now the system is sucking my upper rad hose almost flat.

Did I not retrieve all the fragments from the manifold or am missing something else?
Bottom line is I need to clear whatever is causing the restriction.
I haven’t searched the forum yet because i just discovered it was happening. Please point me to the correct thread if this has already been covered. In the mean time, I’ll be searchin’.

Sigh……… It never ends….

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[Ryan]

[quote=”Jotmon1″ post=149606]Sounds like the “Old Nipple Trick” is only for cleaning threads after you remove all the old fitting. I don’t believe it will help remove the old broken fitting.[/quote]

Drat.
I guess that’s why asked, right?
I’m just dreading laying on top of my motor, in the cold, with small instruments, and limited access.

Can’t blame a guy for trying
I’ll Def try it to clean the threads after I’m done toiling I guess

………..Or maybe I’ll get adventurous. (Fed up)

Progress Thus far……..

Here’s where I stand now….

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[Ryan]

[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=149531]OK first, you don’t often need to bleed the brakes when replacing a booster. Just unmount the master cylinder and move it forward with the brake lines still connected. This will save you a BUNCH of time and effort.

By the sound of it, the pushrod in the booster may not be adjusted correctly. I don’t know the service procedure for that model, but the length of that rod needs to be correct or it can cause the very issue you’re having.

To test my theory, try loosening the master from the brake booster to see if the wheel still hangs up. If it doesn’t, then the pushrod is adjusted too tight and needs to be backed off a bit.

More info on solving brake problems here.

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-brake-problems

Please keep us updated on your progress.[/quote]

Thanks a ton Eric!

Unfortunately, I wasn’t so lucky as to just be able to remove the MC and pull it back to remove the booster. The way the lines were bent made it impossible. I DID however have to loosen the bracket that holds…… proportioning valve is it?……. To pull it even further forward without having to remove any more lines. The ones going out to the wheels were not touched at all.

Anyway, here’s the latest……

Loosened the MC a bit (the nuts did seem a little tight) and messed with the adjustment rod a bit and sent him on his way. 15 min later he pulls back in with the brakes locked and the brakes rock hard ……. WTF!!!!!!! :angry:

In a fit I crawl under the dash with it still running and loosen the CRAP out of the push rod. All of a sudden the brakes release as I’m doing it.

Coincidence? I hope not.

Sent him on his way for the 50th time it seems but have not heard back since…. Guess I’m not bleeding em?

Either it fixed the problem, or he got fed up and took it to someone else…..

All I know is it’s been out of my driveway for the longest time in like 5 days.

Thanks again everyone for all your help! Now I have to deal with my heater core hose broken off. See you in the next post…. :unsure:

[Ryan]

OOOOOOOOOKAAAAAY…….. So,

When I took everything apart again, It appeared to not let as much fluid out the second time. and air bubbles were released when wrenching 1 fitting. Leading me to believe the fluid never moved? Wouldn’t the brakes be spongy? they felt fine til they locked up after heating. Also, Is the unit underneath the MC a proportioning valve? Or, ABS Unit? I’m a bit confused. I’ve been reading the same terms forever now…… :blink:

2nd attempt…..
Put CORRECT booster in.
back bled brakes to keep air from going through whole system.

Worked great for about an hour the…. Same problem at same wheel.

Here’s my guess as to what’s happening…..
while researching the hyundai forum, I discovered that the bleed pattern is not the most common that I believed it was, and that is the procedure I went with. Which was :

RR
LR
RF
LF

Apparently, the bleed pattern should be:

RR
LF
LR
RF

Could this be the culprit?
Customer now also complains of a hard pedal just as if the part was never replaced. I still have yet to drive it however so that, I cannot confirm

I think it’s also pertinent to note that when I back bled, (in the wrong order) I Didn’t get any rise in fluid in the MC until the last wheel. I figured I should get less by the last wheel. I guess that would come back to the bleed pattern.

I also can’t seem to get an answer on weather a hi-scan (pro)tool should be used. AutoZone’s website seems to think so.

At any rate, he’s dropping it off tomorrow, and I was planning on giving the “correct” bleed order a go. With or without the scan tool.

Anyone have a preferred bleed method?

I hope I’m not leaving any important details out.
I need to get this car out of my hair already!

To top it off…… This morning, my heater core hose hard fitting broke off at it’s motor connection on my pickup

………………. But Thaaaaaaat’s a story for another thread folks…. COMING SOON!

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[Ryan]

[quote=”no_common_sense” post=126590]

I lifted this Hyundai Santa Fe just high enough to shake it on the lift to make sure it’s solid on the lift arms. I pushed down on the RF wheel and the strut fell out. The customer told me that this wouldn’t have happened if I would have just done the oil change with the vehicle on the ground. There is such a thing as being right and stupid at the same time.
[/quote]

Words to live by….. B)

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[Ryan]

Is it a big creak or a small one?
Can you tell which side of the compartment it coming from?
Try pushing down on your front bumper with the car running in park, then again off, and see if you can narrow down the source.

[Ryan]

[quote=”Tom Bryant” post=149324]I’d like to hear from Eric regarding the water pump[/quote]

I didn’t realize so much time had passed between both of your posts. :unsure: I misunderstood that whole thing. Sorry.

It gave me a laugh anyhow….. 😳

[Ryan]

Agreed, If you can bang that out (being a diesel tech, I would assume you would) that’s great. Add the fact that it’s your own vehicle, and, you like doing preventatives anyway, it probably won’t feel like work to ya. I know that’s how it works with me.

[Ryan]

Def Check all contact points.

Also, I’m having a similar problem after changing a brake booster, but mine is locking up instead of no contact. This is a logical suggestion posted on one of my threads that may help you out. It’s an easy thing to check if you are out of ideas. Shout out to 13aceofspades13 for the reply.

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/8-Service-and-Repair-Questions-Answered-Here/60408-need-outside-opinion-brake-booster-03-santa-fe

Just one Idiots opinion….

[Ryan]

It may have happened this last time if you had to compress the caliper again. Make sure all your contact points are lubed (slides, ears on pad.) After you swing the caliper up, try compressing the caliper directly in the center in case it had been cocked to one side from your previous compression with the pads caliper in its correct home.

Just one idiots opinion….

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[Ryan]

Great Insight 13ace!

I’m going to replace it with the correct part to start to rule that out first. Especially since I already removed it! lol!

However, Your suggestion is the first thing I’m going to look for when it is the correct part.

I would have pulled my hair out diagnosing further the same issue with dwindling culprits.

The hose looks OK on the exterior, but that doesn’t mean it is inside.

I do think, good Sir, that you may have saved me a lot of time and aggravation going forward.

Thanks Given, and Karma up to you Bro!

Hope I can help you out in the future!

Thanks also for the speedy response!

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[Author]

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