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You’ll need to verify if the smell is indeed coming from within the car. Many times if vents are open, you can smell odors from the engine compartment coming up through the outside vents and into the car. If the smell is electrical, on the interior I would start by looking at the ignition switch mechanism and blower motor. In the engine compartment, look at alternator, AC compressor…but really it could be anything.
If you are using full synthetic AND your engine is in good running order (not running rich, etc.), then 7500 mile oil changes for that engine are quite conservative. If you are using a synthetic blend or straight conventional then 5000 mile oil changes would be good. 3000 miles per oil change is truely a waste of money. If you are still unsure and want proof of your engines ability to support those change intervals, you can send a sample of your last oil change for analysis using this (or similar) labs: https://www.blackstone-labs.com/. Do some reading on this subject, there is lots of info out there.
Well, I guess we will find out if that is the issue next week when I get it in. Thanks for the input.
According to your diagrams, the Bypass inlet hose and Bypass outlet hose are the ones that need to be disconnected and plugged. I think the outlet to carb hose could probably remain connected. Based on the diagram, it looks like just a simple carb gasket might be your real issue though. I do see carb gaskets listed for your car. So you might have your mechanic try that first. I think the car will run better with those hoses connected.
He is correct in that you are unlikely to ‘need’ the heated carb plate. However, I am fairly sure the carb tuning/metering is tied to that. So, it would be likely that your car would run a little rich and I wonder if it would pass emissions. The question really is whether the base unit is damaged or you just have a hose that is not sealing. You should have 2 hoses going to that base unit. If you remove and plug them, that SHOULD solve the leak issue.
Considering the issue came up after you replaced the radiator. Make sure that you bled ALL the air out of the cooling system. If the Engine Temperature sensor is exposed to an air pocket it wil cause a engine run issue. Also make sure you plugged all the connectors back in snug and to the right locations.
I would say that any part that is difficult to replace and has the potential to strand you need to be Honda quality. If you have to pull the engine or spend your entire Saturday tearing the car apart to replace a failed part that you saved $50-$100 that is not smart money in my book.
The high pressure line (and return line) go to the steering rack. You need to check there to see if you have a more serious leak. You will not see smoke from the tail pipe however if the leak is falling on the exhaust system it will smoke. You may have to clean everything off with a degreaser in order to ID where it is coming from. Finally, if you do have a leak on the steering rack I would recommend you have the unit replaced. Overhauling a steering rack is not a simple job. One last note, when you are working on the steering system it is very important you keep everything clean and no dirt gets into the hydraulic system.