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The only how I can see that happening is if your engine is moving too much during heavy throttle. Check motor mounts. Or, if the CV joint was not fully seated when installed.
I would start by confirming that all the factory grounds are in place (especially engine to chassis), undamaged and tight. This sounds like an electrical issue. I would also check your alternator output (even if it is ‘new’) and make sure it is not overcharging or undercharging at full RPM swing. An intermittently overcharging alternator can cause all sorts of issues.
If I am reading this right, you replaced the entire driveshaft and U-joints? Did the U-joints fail the first time around?
Have you had any maintenance done recently? It sounds like possibly you have some carbon build up on the throttle plate which is now sticking. If you have not had any maintenance, I would start by inspecting the throttle body and cleaning it if necessary.
Also check your alternator charge at idle. If it is undercharging or overcharging (voltage) it can create issues with idle control motors and even the ECM. This is just one of many reasons your idle may be fluctuating. I am mentioning it because of your apparent battery issue.
The magnetic clutch circuit is likely bad. On many vehicles, you can replace just the clutch. You would have to check your vehicle specifically. I will assume the shop was telling you the truth and they would have to replace the entire compressor. But, check it yourself. Before you do that, check the wiring and make sure the wire to the compressor is in good shape, connection is solid, and wire is not rubbing on something causing a short.
I would say if you are comfortable with a gauge set, go for it. A bad expansion valve could certainly be one of the issues.
You may have too much refrigerant in the system. If so, that can damage it. Take it to a shop and have them check the refrigerant levels.
The most obvious to me (since you disassembled the dash), would be the ignition switch or cables connected to it. I would check to make sure all of the connectors are seated. Other than the ECM, I can’t think of any other circuits that would affect ignition. You didn’t mention it, but also closely inspect related fuses.
It sounds to me like you have a bad alternator, but you may just have bad cables or ground(s). I know you had the alternator tested, but using a meter, check your charge voltage at the battery terminals at idle and 2500rpm. You, ideally, should be seeing 13V or more (up to 14.2V). The battery light will usually come on in a discharge/low voltage condition.
If I understand your question, you should be able to use brake fluid to assemble the calipers. There should be no harm done there. But you did buy assembled calipers, right? Not sure I have seen a caliper for sale without the piston installed. Other than that, I have always used standard silicone brake grease to lube the slides and pad ears. Not sure the special stuff you bought is necessary – especially for a car of that age.
Most likely is the crank main seal. But the cam seal may also be leaking at that mileage and age. Both should be changed.
Normally, the ECU provides ground to the relay to turn the fan on. If you manually ground the wire to the relay, it should turn the fan on. You may have a bad wire going back to the ECU, or the ECU is bad.