Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
we put the scan tool on it and its reading 188-189 (NORMAL) but the temp gage is still reading high.
If You Say the Engine Light Goes off when bleed correctly then after driving it a while the light will come back on and the temp gage goes up. maybe the head gasket is going bad or the head could be worped and you could be getting air pressure from the cylinders back into your cooling system creating air pockets and then the air pockets get to the thermostat and then your check engine light comes on while the gage climbs. this could be a possibley.
If You Say the Engine Light Goes off when bleed correctly then after driving it a while the light will come back on and the temp gage goes up. maybe the head gasket is going bad or the head could be worped and you could be getting air pressure from the cylinders back into your cooling system creating air pockets and then the air pockets get to the thermostat and then your check engine light comes on while the gage climbs. this could be a possibley.
Okay So if you say that the radiator isnt rejecting the heat then why when we swaped the new one in it did the same thing? The gage went up to 3/4 so both the new and old rads do the exact same thing. Could it possibly be the pump? like could the impeller have come loose and just idoling? ive see this happen before. we have checked the Thermostat and it opens at 170-171. What other possiblites could cause this?
Okay So if you say that the radiator isnt rejecting the heat then why when we swaped the new one in it did the same thing? The gage went up to 3/4 so both the new and old rads do the exact same thing. Could it possibly be the pump? like could the impeller have come loose and just idoling? ive see this happen before. we have checked the Thermostat and it opens at 170-171. What other possiblites could cause this?
I Have the Same Noise in my 95 Chevy Truck Every once an a while i come to a stop and relece the brake and i hear a Bang in my rear end its just the brakes nothin to really worry about but if ya want to get rid of the noise just take the drums off and have them machined i believe this should solve the problem. Me i havent messed with mine yet and i dont plan too.
I Have the Same Noise in my 95 Chevy Truck Every once an a while i come to a stop and relece the brake and i hear a Bang in my rear end its just the brakes nothin to really worry about but if ya want to get rid of the noise just take the drums off and have them machined i believe this should solve the problem. Me i havent messed with mine yet and i dont plan too.
My name Is Andy White I am 20 years old and I Am Currently Attending St. Cloud Technical College here in minnesota. I Want to specialize In Engine/Drivetrain (Engines, transmissions, transfer cases, Rearends. I might look into taking the medium/Heavy truck course they offer at the college and possibly become a diesel Technician.
My name Is Andy White I am 20 years old and I Am Currently Attending St. Cloud Technical College here in minnesota. I Want to specialize In Engine/Drivetrain (Engines, transmissions, transfer cases, Rearends. I might look into taking the medium/Heavy truck course they offer at the college and possibly become a diesel Technician.
We Checked the Radiator and The A/C condenser Both are Clean and Clear. IF we unplug the temp sensor on the bottom right of the radiator the fans will STAY on All the time. that sensor is GOOD becase we did an OHM Test on it and it was in spec. and it worked the way it should. (temp get hot closes the contacts fan comes on, Cools off opens the contacts fan shuts off) We DID Burp the System Correctly Just like in the Video. IF we turn on the Heat inside the car the temp Cools Down (air passing over the heater core cooling the coolent gage drops some) My instructor took this car on the highway and the gage is still at 3/4 at highway speeds. still doesnt make any sence… Im thinking it could be the water pump becase this started happening shortly After they installed a new pump. could this lead to the problem?
We Checked the Radiator and The A/C condenser Both are Clean and Clear. IF we unplug the temp sensor on the bottom right of the radiator the fans will STAY on All the time. that sensor is GOOD becase we did an OHM Test on it and it was in spec. and it worked the way it should. (temp get hot closes the contacts fan comes on, Cools off opens the contacts fan shuts off) We DID Burp the System Correctly Just like in the Video. IF we turn on the Heat inside the car the temp Cools Down (air passing over the heater core cooling the coolent gage drops some) My instructor took this car on the highway and the gage is still at 3/4 at highway speeds. still doesnt make any sence… Im thinking it could be the water pump becase this started happening shortly After they installed a new pump. could this lead to the problem?
Okay I Have more info. This car was worked on by LAST years Students they were the ones that put in the water pump, thermostat, Fan control, the 3 temp sensors, ectra. when the car was given back to the customer this is when he noticed that the gage on the dash stated to read around the 3/4 mark. we have done an OMHS test on the sensors and they are within spec. what we did today was we ordered a NEW radiator and swapped them out thinking that the old one had a blockage somewhere. well it did the same thing gage went to 3/4 mark. so we put the old one back in. sent the new one back. (didnt need it) when the car starts up out in the cold it HEATS UP REAL FAST (Outside temp 30 F) like with in 5 minutes its at the 1/4 mark on the gage. the thermostat IS OPENING UP the coolent in the radiator is HOT. BUT Shouldnt the fans come on BEFORE the recommended Spect (i think its 199? correct me if im wrong) but the fans dont stay on for very Long. When you turn the A/C on They come on like they should. We did burp the air outta the system when we put the Rads IN so all of us are stumped. STILL lol
Okay I Have more info. This car was worked on by LAST years Students they were the ones that put in the water pump, thermostat, Fan control, the 3 temp sensors, ectra. when the car was given back to the customer this is when he noticed that the gage on the dash stated to read around the 3/4 mark. we have done an OMHS test on the sensors and they are within spec. what we did today was we ordered a NEW radiator and swapped them out thinking that the old one had a blockage somewhere. well it did the same thing gage went to 3/4 mark. so we put the old one back in. sent the new one back. (didnt need it) when the car starts up out in the cold it HEATS UP REAL FAST (Outside temp 30 F) like with in 5 minutes its at the 1/4 mark on the gage. the thermostat IS OPENING UP the coolent in the radiator is HOT. BUT Shouldnt the fans come on BEFORE the recommended Spect (i think its 199? correct me if im wrong) but the fans dont stay on for very Long. When you turn the A/C on They come on like they should. We did burp the air outta the system when we put the Rads IN so all of us are stumped. STILL lol
[quote]Quoted From moparfan: _x000D_
_x000D_
now that i seen the dash i should of known this one lol i just went threw a 96 about 3 days ago. lol i guess i was thinking it was a older truck. anyways there is one more door right behind the the blower motor. so