Forum Replies Created
- Replies
Yes I am planning to replace the rubber part of the brake line – thx v much. I think the big clue in my case is the intermittent aspect – I can take off and drive all around without a problem. Then another time I’m out and the caliper is not releasing – and when it is bad the truck will hop pretty bad when I get over 40mph. Today I had to pull over several times and let cars go around while I crept down the road at 30mph. When I get out at such times to look at the wheel – i hear it clicking like the piston is bumping back in a mm at a time as it starts to cool. If it were a collapsed break line I think the problem would be evident constantly. If a corroded bleeder valve etc, it would be constant. Since it is intermittent I feel confident from Eric’s videos that it is the square o-ring that makes the piston operate… mine must be broken or messing up in some way. I may be wrong but it seems to me that it must be the piston inside the caliper or the gasket.
I do have a question – I am finding replacement calipers for my truck that have 2 smaller pistons instead of one larger piston – I dont remember positively but think my calipers have one piston – is it ok to replace a single piston caliper with a 2 piston caliper? According to the suppliers, the 2 piston calipers are replacements from my truck.
Actually, I have not done anything about this issue yet. I the formed line mentioned previously that comes out of the top of valve cover on oil cap side, is very thin diameter like 1/4 inch and is only about 18 inches long. It runs into a bigger rubber hose and so far I have not found a PCV on the line so I am not sure how to proceed to clean the line out. I removed oil cap again and found more cream on it even though I just wiped it off a short time ago. The formed small diameter line enters the valve cover thru a rubber boot – do I just pull it out of that boot? Not sure how to get it off so that I can run carb cleaner thru it to clear it out. Appeciate your help – you videos on youtube are awesome!
Actually, I have not done anything about this issue yet. I the formed line mentioned previously that comes out of the top of valve cover on oil cap side, is very thin diameter like 1/4 inch and is only about 18 inches long. It runs into a bigger rubber hose and so far I have not found a PCV on the line so I am not sure how to proceed to clean the line out. I removed oil cap again and found more cream on it even though I just wiped it off a short time ago. The formed small diameter line enters the valve cover thru a rubber boot – do I just pull it out of that boot? Not sure how to get it off so that I can run carb cleaner thru it to clear it out. Appeciate your help – you videos on youtube are awesome!
should i change the PCV if it is in the line or just remove the whole line and blow it out with carb cleaner? Thanks again.
should i change the PCV if it is in the line or just remove the whole line and blow it out with carb cleaner? Thanks again.
Eric – I worked in research labs almost 40 yrs and received technical journals twice every week. About 5 yrs ago an article appeared in one of them where scientists did a very thorough study comparing synthetic and natural motor oil. Your recent video in youtube is exactly right – synthetic oil is better than natural oil. According to the research, synthetic oil can last up to 15,000 or even more than 20.000 miles before starting to break down, under normal driving conditions, vs the usual 4,000 – 7,000 according to the study for natural oil. No oil company should threaten you since they would be wrong. Keep up the good work and 2 thumbs up!!
Eric – I worked in research labs almost 40 yrs and received technical journals twice every week. About 5 yrs ago an article appeared in one of them where scientists did a very thorough study comparing synthetic and natural motor oil. Your recent video in youtube is exactly right – synthetic oil is better than natural oil. According to the research, synthetic oil can last up to 15,000 or even more than 20.000 miles before starting to break down, under normal driving conditions, vs the usual 4,000 – 7,000 according to the study for natural oil. No oil company should threaten you since they would be wrong. Keep up the good work and 2 thumbs up!!
Can I jump in on similar issue with my Ford F150? Bought new in 2005, leftover 2004, 6 cyl, automatic. Found cream on bottom of oil cap and have been noticing the engine idles rough especially when in gear with brake on at stop lights. I changed spark plugs and it ran better a few days but now is rough idling again. I am wondering if the formed line that enters valve cover in front of oil cap is a vacuum line and if so, could it be plugged with the same white cream I found on oil cap? I will change the oil asap but am wondering if I need to change the line mentioned too if it is a plugged up vacuum line?
Can I jump in on similar issue with my Ford F150? Bought new in 2005, leftover 2004, 6 cyl, automatic. Found cream on bottom of oil cap and have been noticing the engine idles rough especially when in gear with brake on at stop lights. I changed spark plugs and it ran better a few days but now is rough idling again. I am wondering if the formed line that enters valve cover in front of oil cap is a vacuum line and if so, could it be plugged with the same white cream I found on oil cap? I will change the oil asap but am wondering if I need to change the line mentioned too if it is a plugged up vacuum line?