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Thank you Eric – and thank you all – you guys are the best! Here is my report from today’s efforts:
1. Was only able to get one brakeline replaced because the shop only had one for my truck.
I replaced the passenger side lower end brakeline, the short rubber hose. The job was not without a couple minor snags but I got thru them and will post a video later showing the work with discussion for other newbies like me who might benefit from lessons learned.Guys, I was so relieved when my daughter showed up to pump the brakes for me today – because after bleeding the line, it worked! The first thing I did after bleeding the line was turn the rotor and then ask my daughter to depress the brake pedal and attempt turning the rotor again – something I could not do before replacing the line because the pumped brake would make the caliper seize on the rotor. Well, not this time. The rotor turned after pumping the brake – the stuck caliper is now working correctly!
It is possible and likely that the caliper did not need replacing – hard headed and didn’t listen to you guys and I paid for it. The old brake line was blocked up in the same spots shown in several videos on youtube, where the metal mounting bracket binds in the middle of the hose and toward the end near the caliper where the connection to the metal line/square nut end is – both were blocked or at least I could not get my polyester cord to pass thru those areas.
I will pose a question at the end of my video so I hope you guys will chime in on it. Thx again for your help – greatly appreciated. I had a good feeling when I found the old line blocked up… felt it would work correctly with the new brake line and it did. What joy to test drive the truck – going down the road the truck felt as though it was floating on air… rolling so easily and freely. Instead of seeing the gas needle dropping before my eyes I think it was bumping up toward the FULL direction – the sticking caliper was draining gas while hurting the rotor and break pads. Anyway, the truck is running so much better… fantastic! Cost for brake line and another pint of fluid was $20. Yippeeee!!!!
Thank you Eric – and thank you all – you guys are the best! Here is my report from today’s efforts:
1. Was only able to get one brakeline replaced because the shop only had one for my truck.
I replaced the passenger side lower end brakeline, the short rubber hose. The job was not without a couple minor snags but I got thru them and will post a video later showing the work with discussion for other newbies like me who might benefit from lessons learned.Guys, I was so relieved when my daughter showed up to pump the brakes for me today – because after bleeding the line, it worked! The first thing I did after bleeding the line was turn the rotor and then ask my daughter to depress the brake pedal and attempt turning the rotor again – something I could not do before replacing the line because the pumped brake would make the caliper seize on the rotor. Well, not this time. The rotor turned after pumping the brake – the stuck caliper is now working correctly!
It is possible and likely that the caliper did not need replacing – hard headed and didn’t listen to you guys and I paid for it. The old brake line was blocked up in the same spots shown in several videos on youtube, where the metal mounting bracket binds in the middle of the hose and toward the end near the caliper where the connection to the metal line/square nut end is – both were blocked or at least I could not get my polyester cord to pass thru those areas.
I will pose a question at the end of my video so I hope you guys will chime in on it. Thx again for your help – greatly appreciated. I had a good feeling when I found the old line blocked up… felt it would work correctly with the new brake line and it did. What joy to test drive the truck – going down the road the truck felt as though it was floating on air… rolling so easily and freely. Instead of seeing the gas needle dropping before my eyes I think it was bumping up toward the FULL direction – the sticking caliper was draining gas while hurting the rotor and break pads. Anyway, the truck is running so much better… fantastic! Cost for brake line and another pint of fluid was $20. Yippeeee!!!!
Thank you all for thoughtful and thorough replies. Much appreciated. I know that some of you guys invest a lot of time in the forum helping many people and as a result you begin to become more judgmental when newbies like me come in acting stupid, not doing everything suggested and dragging things out. I second that motion and am sorry to be one of these people. If I could afford all the parts and replacements or even to just take the truck to a shop and let them do the full monty on it, I wouldn’t have been here in the first place. I think most people come here for 2 reasons, because they enjoy doing their own work and want to learn and get help or they are trying to get by with the least money spent, doing what they can for themselves. I am the latter. Unfortunately, I can’t shell out $500 to get the front end brakes redone with new rotors, pads, brake lines and whatever else is deemed necessary. If you cannot pay for this work you are stuck. That is where I am. I sure understand frustration dealing with people that have minimal experience and money to do things right. Not happy being one of them and I apologize to everyone for the trouble, for sure.
With this in mind here is what I have determined following the recent suggestions from both here in the ETCG forum and one youtuber who has offered his expertise – I am grateful for all:
1. Non-problem drivers side brake releases – the tire easily rotates b4 and after brake pedal is pumped.
2. Problem passenger side brake line must have an issue – tire rotates with noticeable uneven rotor b4 brake pedal is pumped but is locked after pumping brake pedal. When locked, cracking bleeder valve just enough to let out a drop or two of fluid, the replaced caliper releases and wheel can be turned.So it appears that my caliper replacement may have been wasted money, money I could have used toward getting the rotor turned or toward new rotors and pads for front end.
My next move will be to replace both front end brake lines – the short rubber ends that connect directly to calipers. If that solves the release issue I will be delighted and then when I can afford new rotors and pads for the front end I’ll get them.
Thank you for all the important subtle tips also – like making sure the seat for new rotor is perfectly clean, since I’ll probably end up doing it myself and not being able to test for true. Thank you also for the tip to not use old brake fluid or a half full bottle. I will be sure to use only unopened bottles in the future.
I will report back when I have a new development. Thanks again. You guys are the best!
Thank you all for thoughtful and thorough replies. Much appreciated. I know that some of you guys invest a lot of time in the forum helping many people and as a result you begin to become more judgmental when newbies like me come in acting stupid, not doing everything suggested and dragging things out. I second that motion and am sorry to be one of these people. If I could afford all the parts and replacements or even to just take the truck to a shop and let them do the full monty on it, I wouldn’t have been here in the first place. I think most people come here for 2 reasons, because they enjoy doing their own work and want to learn and get help or they are trying to get by with the least money spent, doing what they can for themselves. I am the latter. Unfortunately, I can’t shell out $500 to get the front end brakes redone with new rotors, pads, brake lines and whatever else is deemed necessary. If you cannot pay for this work you are stuck. That is where I am. I sure understand frustration dealing with people that have minimal experience and money to do things right. Not happy being one of them and I apologize to everyone for the trouble, for sure.
With this in mind here is what I have determined following the recent suggestions from both here in the ETCG forum and one youtuber who has offered his expertise – I am grateful for all:
1. Non-problem drivers side brake releases – the tire easily rotates b4 and after brake pedal is pumped.
2. Problem passenger side brake line must have an issue – tire rotates with noticeable uneven rotor b4 brake pedal is pumped but is locked after pumping brake pedal. When locked, cracking bleeder valve just enough to let out a drop or two of fluid, the replaced caliper releases and wheel can be turned.So it appears that my caliper replacement may have been wasted money, money I could have used toward getting the rotor turned or toward new rotors and pads for front end.
My next move will be to replace both front end brake lines – the short rubber ends that connect directly to calipers. If that solves the release issue I will be delighted and then when I can afford new rotors and pads for the front end I’ll get them.
Thank you for all the important subtle tips also – like making sure the seat for new rotor is perfectly clean, since I’ll probably end up doing it myself and not being able to test for true. Thank you also for the tip to not use old brake fluid or a half full bottle. I will be sure to use only unopened bottles in the future.
I will report back when I have a new development. Thanks again. You guys are the best!
Ok Eric and Comany – some revealing analysis following suggestion from youtuber who watched my video. He suggested I jack the truck up again until the tire clears the ground and attempt to rotate the wheel. He said if it was dragging or hard to rotate the caliper job was poor and/or brake line is an issue.
I jacked the truck up and found the following:
1. The wheel rotated without any sound – no squeak or squeal, no dragging sound
2. It required some effort to turn but I noticed it was easier to turn on one half of the rotor and harder to turn on the other half – so Eric – you were right about the rotor being warped – probably explains the bumping at 40mph
3. I then started the truck and pumped the brake… could not rotate the wheel afterward, caliper not releasing at all.Then I got smart and let the truck down, jacked up the drivers side. The wheel rotated easily and smoothly, with no sounds at all.
My questions are:
1. Do I have to replace the rotor of is there a chance it can be turned down?
2. How can the brakeline be the problem when the bleeder valve squirted brakefluid very easily when I was bleeding the line after the caliper replacement?
3. Can I run a wire into the brakeline to test it for blockage?
4. This could be a big question – the replacement caliper bracket was more narrow than the one on my truck that I could not remove – does it matter aka make the caliper pistons displace further etc because I put the new caliper on a wider bracket? Is this a mistake?Eric – I know you cannot answer this question with any certainty since you haven’t looked at the truck yourself but can I drive the truck until I can afford to buy a new rotor and brakeline? Thx very much for all your help. You’re the best!
Ok Eric and Comany – some revealing analysis following suggestion from youtuber who watched my video. He suggested I jack the truck up again until the tire clears the ground and attempt to rotate the wheel. He said if it was dragging or hard to rotate the caliper job was poor and/or brake line is an issue.
I jacked the truck up and found the following:
1. The wheel rotated without any sound – no squeak or squeal, no dragging sound
2. It required some effort to turn but I noticed it was easier to turn on one half of the rotor and harder to turn on the other half – so Eric – you were right about the rotor being warped – probably explains the bumping at 40mph
3. I then started the truck and pumped the brake… could not rotate the wheel afterward, caliper not releasing at all.Then I got smart and let the truck down, jacked up the drivers side. The wheel rotated easily and smoothly, with no sounds at all.
My questions are:
1. Do I have to replace the rotor of is there a chance it can be turned down?
2. How can the brakeline be the problem when the bleeder valve squirted brakefluid very easily when I was bleeding the line after the caliper replacement?
3. Can I run a wire into the brakeline to test it for blockage?
4. This could be a big question – the replacement caliper bracket was more narrow than the one on my truck that I could not remove – does it matter aka make the caliper pistons displace further etc because I put the new caliper on a wider bracket? Is this a mistake?Eric – I know you cannot answer this question with any certainty since you haven’t looked at the truck yourself but can I drive the truck until I can afford to buy a new rotor and brakeline? Thx very much for all your help. You’re the best!
Thx Eric – much appreciate your time and thoughts. Here is the full length video of my failed repair – going public to help others do a better job than my first go around. Let me know what you think of the video Eric – thx again!
Thx Eric – much appreciate your time and thoughts. Here is the full length video of my failed repair – going public to help others do a better job than my first go around. Let me know what you think of the video Eric – thx again!
Well Eric and guys, I may be the newest buffoon. Long story short I replaced the brake caliper today – pads looked ok to me, rotor was scored but not as bad as I had thought. With storms rolling into my area and working outside I had to forego some of the diagnostics (full video later) and put on the new caliper. I did notice the old caliper pins would not come back out after depressing them. They were not stuck hard but would stay in. I did not see rust on them on removal but they were dark colored. I was not able to get the orignal bracket off so I left it and put the new caliper on it.
I found lug nuts barely snug on the wheel to start things off. Caliper Pin nuts were not real tight either. On getting the line bled there was no problem getting fluid thru the line, it came out very easily and squirted me once when I cracked the bleeder valve too quickly. So I don’t think there is any brakeline issue. On test driving the truck about 8 miles, braking along the way, brakes were fine but the 40-45 mile vibration was still evident and worst yet, the wheel was smoking hot on return home – please see short video here. I could feel heat radiating and see smoke. You can hear the wheel clicking and cracking from the heat. What is going on? I value your thoughts.
I drove the truck again about 15 miles to return core and no real issues – no vibration – no smoking when i was back – all wheels felt similar heat when I held back of hand up to openings in the wheels. Wonder if the smoke was from grease getting onto the rotor? Anyway, still not sure I have found the actual problem. I’ll post a full length video of my handiwork for critique and laughs. I value your thoughts Eric – wonder if my wheel bearings are gone or something like that generating heat and vibration? I do not hear any grinding etc.
Well Eric and guys, I may be the newest buffoon. Long story short I replaced the brake caliper today – pads looked ok to me, rotor was scored but not as bad as I had thought. With storms rolling into my area and working outside I had to forego some of the diagnostics (full video later) and put on the new caliper. I did notice the old caliper pins would not come back out after depressing them. They were not stuck hard but would stay in. I did not see rust on them on removal but they were dark colored. I was not able to get the orignal bracket off so I left it and put the new caliper on it.
I found lug nuts barely snug on the wheel to start things off. Caliper Pin nuts were not real tight either. On getting the line bled there was no problem getting fluid thru the line, it came out very easily and squirted me once when I cracked the bleeder valve too quickly. So I don’t think there is any brakeline issue. On test driving the truck about 8 miles, braking along the way, brakes were fine but the 40-45 mile vibration was still evident and worst yet, the wheel was smoking hot on return home – please see short video here. I could feel heat radiating and see smoke. You can hear the wheel clicking and cracking from the heat. What is going on? I value your thoughts.
I drove the truck again about 15 miles to return core and no real issues – no vibration – no smoking when i was back – all wheels felt similar heat when I held back of hand up to openings in the wheels. Wonder if the smoke was from grease getting onto the rotor? Anyway, still not sure I have found the actual problem. I’ll post a full length video of my handiwork for critique and laughs. I value your thoughts Eric – wonder if my wheel bearings are gone or something like that generating heat and vibration? I do not hear any grinding etc.
thx Eric and everyone. i’ll report back and if i have the extra time will try to shoot a video showing my repair and if so, will post the link back here. thx again.
thx Eric and everyone. i’ll report back and if i have the extra time will try to shoot a video showing my repair and if so, will post the link back here. thx again.
I just saw another video on youtube that raises a concern in my situation with the front right brake not releasing. The guy claimed (in comment below a video) that it is not good to force a caliper piston in on an 2004 F-150 because Ford put a back pressure valve in the brake line – forcing the caliper piston in with a clamp etc will “blow the valve” Mechanic who replaced my brake pads in March definitely forced the right caliper piston back in with extreme force required using a large C-clamp – in fact it was so hard to move that he ran out of energy and handed it to me and I was able to get a couple turns on the C-clamp and push the piston in. Is there validity to this claim about a back pressure valve on the brake line and pushing the piston in destroying that valve? I wonder about this in addition to the sticking caliper because I ran my finger tip over the rotor on this side today and it’s heavily scored – this since March when the brake pads were replaced – the rotor wasn’t scored at that time. I’m also concerned that the mechanic might have gotten the brake pads on backwards. I guess I’ll find out about that when I open the thing up and look.
Also – I have done my own brakes before but am not a trained auto mechanic. I think I can handle changing the caliper but am concerned about air getting into the brake line and bleeding the line afterward. I have no handy bottle with tube to keep air from getting into the line.
I just saw another video on youtube that raises a concern in my situation with the front right brake not releasing. The guy claimed (in comment below a video) that it is not good to force a caliper piston in on an 2004 F-150 because Ford put a back pressure valve in the brake line – forcing the caliper piston in with a clamp etc will “blow the valve” Mechanic who replaced my brake pads in March definitely forced the right caliper piston back in with extreme force required using a large C-clamp – in fact it was so hard to move that he ran out of energy and handed it to me and I was able to get a couple turns on the C-clamp and push the piston in. Is there validity to this claim about a back pressure valve on the brake line and pushing the piston in destroying that valve? I wonder about this in addition to the sticking caliper because I ran my finger tip over the rotor on this side today and it’s heavily scored – this since March when the brake pads were replaced – the rotor wasn’t scored at that time. I’m also concerned that the mechanic might have gotten the brake pads on backwards. I guess I’ll find out about that when I open the thing up and look.
Also – I have done my own brakes before but am not a trained auto mechanic. I think I can handle changing the caliper but am concerned about air getting into the brake line and bleeding the line afterward. I have no handy bottle with tube to keep air from getting into the line.
Yes I am planning to replace the rubber part of the brake line – thx v much. I think the big clue in my case is the intermittent aspect – I can take off and drive all around without a problem. Then another time I’m out and the caliper is not releasing – and when it is bad the truck will hop pretty bad when I get over 40mph. Today I had to pull over several times and let cars go around while I crept down the road at 30mph. When I get out at such times to look at the wheel – i hear it clicking like the piston is bumping back in a mm at a time as it starts to cool. If it were a collapsed break line I think the problem would be evident constantly. If a corroded bleeder valve etc, it would be constant. Since it is intermittent I feel confident from Eric’s videos that it is the square o-ring that makes the piston operate… mine must be broken or messing up in some way. I may be wrong but it seems to me that it must be the piston inside the caliper or the gasket.
I do have a question – I am finding replacement calipers for my truck that have 2 smaller pistons instead of one larger piston – I dont remember positively but think my calipers have one piston – is it ok to replace a single piston caliper with a 2 piston caliper? According to the suppliers, the 2 piston calipers are replacements from my truck.