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Take the caliper piston out and see if it is problem with moisture (rust) or contamination of brake fluid.
Take the spark plugs out and crank it to see if it cranks better. I am suspecting one or more of your intake valves are not opening.
Weak starter motor or problem with starter not catching the ring gear. How is the starter sound? Do you hear any grinding noise?
[quote=”TeenBeach” post=186733]@skim3544 I stated that the engine actually doesn’t crank what-so-ever. When i tried starting the car, you could hear the starter going but with the cams/crankshaft pulley/belt wouldn’t move at all. So i am unable to do a compression test. I took the starter off the car and bench tested it by using jumper cables off another cars battery and it worked just fine.
I just checked the timing and all marks line up perfectly. So im really happy to see that, but i am so confused why the engine wont turn….
Could the starter maybe not be strong enough? Thanks for the help so far guys.[/quote]Only extremely bad oil leak would be leaking from rear main seal. Otherwise all of these should serviceable. Check the valve cover gasket first because it is easiest to check.
Needless to say, you want to install quality fan thermo switch. A faulty fan thermo switch can burn out new fan control module after the installation. You can get into money pit loop of these three items (fan switch, fuse, fan control module) frying each other out. I normally use good name brand aftermarket thermo switch – this should run you least $20.
I remember working on these cars, the manual says to put the car in service position but I was able to do it just by sliding the fan assembly out from the bottom. Fan and fan thermo switches are first to be checked/replaced. I did the same test by jumping the connections using paper clip to test the fans. If you are still having problem after, I would
1) check the fuse (dark brown color?) When fan burns out it is common for these fuse to burn out.
2) replace the fan control module.It is really common for these 3 to burn out at the same time for VW. That is nature of the beast. Bad fan thermo switch (I believe this is connected A/C system) usually burn out the fan control module (this is usually located behind the bumper)
Check with your local library to see if they offers ALLData or Mitchell on demand access. Why pay for anything if you can get for free?
If you are looking for factory service manual, they are both published by Helm, Inc. You maybe able to buy repair CDs directly (it is going to cost you) but almost all modern cars are now online and pay per use.
I would rip out trunk first to see if you can access the reverse side. Otherwise, As Civvy said – I would drop the gas tank. Sucks but sometimes this is what you have to do.
I use any cheap oil sold by 5gal. Unless the car is turbo charged, I would not waste money with synthetic oil.
I would say get a used steering knuckle from U-pull junk yard – try not to bend it this time. I never bent one, but I managed to crack one trying to press out the old ball joint. You can usually pick these up under $40.
I would say cut the power to the fuel pump and crank the engine. Without the fuel the engine will not run, but it will rule out starter problem.
I would do quick compression test to see if any of them are leaking air. That right side cam don’t look right to me, maybe camshaft is bent? twisted? Rare but does happen.I agree with relative4, if you can do timing belt, clutch job isn’t that much difficult. Usually you just support the engine and pull the transmission out while supported with transmission jack. But do your own research on your specific car. There are some cars that just don’t give you necessary room so you would have to pull the engine and transmission out together. The most difficult job is aligning the transmission back in place. Even with clutch alignment tool, you would have to wiggle the transmission to get it to mate with the engine – this can be frustrating experience as most transmission jack don’t give you much control. I usually end up ditching the transmission jack and doing it while supporting the transmission with both hands – but this can quickly tire you out.
After extensive research I finally figured this one out. The lower oil pan is not in the way of removing the timing chain cover, it is simply not strong enough to hold the weight of the engine. Supporting engine by the oil pan is something I do without even thinking about on Japanese imports… but not these Korean cars.
My assumption was incorrect. The upper oil pan, which is made with aluminium is strong enough to support the weight of the engine. Looks like Kia technicians found this out through trial & error. The very first TSB they released, they tell you to just take the engine out of the car for this job.
Yes, factory service manual maybe worth the expense for doing complicated job like this, but I simply don’t have the money. I also don’t believe in getting illegal copies. What I am going to do is hit local library to access Alldata manual for this car. I am pretty sure it would be more detailed than Haynes manual.
thank you