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Hey there,
Your p0420 code could very well be the converter. These new gm’s seem pretty good when it comes to setting a trouble code fault for the o2 sensors, but with that being said it still is possible for being a downstream o2 fault. Good idea would be to get the vehicle nice and hot and if possible graph the upstream and downstream sensors and see how the down stream “stabilizes.”
As with your p1681 Throttle position and your p0106 MAP code there is a good chance that the throttle body needs replacement. These units are “fly by wire” and have known issues with them. Good place to start with this it to take off the intake tube and visually inspect the throttle plate for build up. I always try to clean these units before replacement because they are kind of spendy. Also there were a few T.S.B. and recall issues for the PCM’s so defiantly research that as well.Good luck!
Hey there,
Your p0420 code could very well be the converter. These new gm’s seem pretty good when it comes to setting a trouble code fault for the o2 sensors, but with that being said it still is possible for being a downstream o2 fault. Good idea would be to get the vehicle nice and hot and if possible graph the upstream and downstream sensors and see how the down stream “stabilizes.”
As with your p1681 Throttle position and your p0106 MAP code there is a good chance that the throttle body needs replacement. These units are “fly by wire” and have known issues with them. Good place to start with this it to take off the intake tube and visually inspect the throttle plate for build up. I always try to clean these units before replacement because they are kind of spendy. Also there were a few T.S.B. and recall issues for the PCM’s so defiantly research that as well.Good luck!
Great job man! Glad I was able to help out a bit. This helps keep my skills up to par lol. Also thanks to Eric for having a wonderful website as well!
Take care.
Great job man! Glad I was able to help out a bit. This helps keep my skills up to par lol. Also thanks to Eric for having a wonderful website as well!
Take care.
Arrow up! What they said, look into the cooling fan operation.(assuming coolant is full) Also I’ve noticed in the field (especially in the hottest summer days!) the cooling fins on the radiator and condenser begin to build up with debris and bugs. This can cause lack of airflow and lead to an overheat condition. Try spraying out the condenser and radiator with water and pay attention to what is coming out underneath the vehicle during this. Also try and get a visual of what it looks like between the two parts. good luck!
Arrow up! What they said, look into the cooling fan operation.(assuming coolant is full) Also I’ve noticed in the field (especially in the hottest summer days!) the cooling fins on the radiator and condenser begin to build up with debris and bugs. This can cause lack of airflow and lead to an overheat condition. Try spraying out the condenser and radiator with water and pay attention to what is coming out underneath the vehicle during this. Also try and get a visual of what it looks like between the two parts. good luck!
Your description is hard to understand but I assume its an extended crank issue? The motor turn over fine, but does not fire until an extended crank cycle is introduced? If this is the issue, in most cases, The fuel system should be a suspect especially with dodge products. They use a return-less fuel system. So the fuel regulator in actually in the tank. Basically the system has no fuel available at the fuel rail so therefore the extended start. There should be a fuel port on the rail you can tap into with a standard gauge. Check pressure readings and see if it will hold after you have “keyed up” the fuel system. Good luck
Your description is hard to understand but I assume its an extended crank issue? The motor turn over fine, but does not fire until an extended crank cycle is introduced? If this is the issue, in most cases, The fuel system should be a suspect especially with dodge products. They use a return-less fuel system. So the fuel regulator in actually in the tank. Basically the system has no fuel available at the fuel rail so therefore the extended start. There should be a fuel port on the rail you can tap into with a standard gauge. Check pressure readings and see if it will hold after you have “keyed up” the fuel system. Good luck
Hey there,
Its really hard to tell you what is wrong but I can give you some direction hopefully. If battery is fully charged and no shorted cells, there is a possibility for excessive resistance in the battery cables. Make sure no ground wires are broken or filled with corrosion. Also these Chrysler products use a thing called an ASD relay (automatic shutdown relay) that could be and issue in that area as well. It really sounds like a battery issue but post what you find and maybe I can keep you going with some help.
Good luck man!
Hey there,
Its really hard to tell you what is wrong but I can give you some direction hopefully. If battery is fully charged and no shorted cells, there is a possibility for excessive resistance in the battery cables. Make sure no ground wires are broken or filled with corrosion. Also these Chrysler products use a thing called an ASD relay (automatic shutdown relay) that could be and issue in that area as well. It really sounds like a battery issue but post what you find and maybe I can keep you going with some help.
Good luck man!
Used scopes can go for a decent price nowadays.. check out ebay for an older vantage being that you don’t work in the field. Also you need to understand scope waveforms which takes time and snap-on does a great job explaining it on the Vantage. The older one is pretty boxy and aren’t usually updated to far into the future but gets the job done. otherwise OTC has a couple 2-channels that look okay.