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To clarify my question and the reason I asked:
Yeah, I’ve only done 2 valve adjustments in my life on Honda 2.4Ls. More as a monkey moving parts around rather than understanding everything. I had been anal retentive about the timing marks, but the #4 cylinder was a pain to be sure of, because the timing marks are 180 degrees opposite of each other – rather than pointing at each other or directly up and down.
So therefore, now knowing this, either:
1) I don’t have to be so exactly precise of making the #4 timing mark exactly 180 degrees opposite. Oh 175 or 185 degrees should be ok ….Or
2) adjust both #1 and #4 at the same time. Since the marks TDC for #1 points at each other, it’s so much easier to know that you’re spot on.
Does this sound right?
To clarify my question and the reason I asked:
Yeah, I’ve only done 2 valve adjustments in my life on Honda 2.4Ls. More as a monkey moving parts around rather than understanding everything. I had been anal retentive about the timing marks, but the #4 cylinder was a pain to be sure of, because the timing marks are 180 degrees opposite of each other – rather than pointing at each other or directly up and down.
So therefore, now knowing this, either:
1) I don’t have to be so exactly precise of making the #4 timing mark exactly 180 degrees opposite. Oh 175 or 185 degrees should be ok ….Or
2) adjust both #1 and #4 at the same time. Since the marks TDC for #1 points at each other, it’s so much easier to know that you’re spot on.
Does this sound right?
Well, to the OP, if you’re breaking a ratchet every 3 years, you should probably get a better ratchet. Snap On is pretty much top of the line, but there are many brands that are just as good.
Well, to the OP, if you’re breaking a ratchet every 3 years, you should probably get a better ratchet. Snap On is pretty much top of the line, but there are many brands that are just as good.
Lol. I ask the question, and ECTG comes out with a video a day later? Awesome!
Yes, my secondary O2 reads out steady at 0.65V when the car is at crusing rpms, it drops to 0 on deceleration.
According to what Honda says, it should be between 0.5 and 0.8 at crusing and less than 0.1 at deceleration.
And if the voltages are ok, apparently it’s not necessary to check the inlet and outlet temperatures.
Therefore, the cat is okay. But then I’m at a loss as to why the p0420 came on. Could a rainy day mess with the sensors?
Lol. I ask the question, and ECTG comes out with a video a day later? Awesome!
Yes, my secondary O2 reads out steady at 0.65V when the car is at crusing rpms, it drops to 0 on deceleration.
According to what Honda says, it should be between 0.5 and 0.8 at crusing and less than 0.1 at deceleration.
And if the voltages are ok, apparently it’s not necessary to check the inlet and outlet temperatures.
Therefore, the cat is okay. But then I’m at a loss as to why the p0420 came on. Could a rainy day mess with the sensors?
Well, thanks for mentioning the heater hoses.
On my 03 Honda CRV, the outlet heater hose, at it’s connection near the back of the engine – the rubber looks swollen and it’s a little wet in the area. I smell no coolant, and my reservoir is still full. Im presuming that the hose will probably burst sometime soon. Hopefully it will wait till this weekend!
So Im going from preventative maintenance, to necessary maintenance here…
Ive never replaced heater hoses before. Any tips?
1) I see ECTG use silicone spray on lots of rubber hoses. Seems like a good idea.
2) Do people prefer to pull off the hoses with a hose plier, or do you cut the tubes? or do you use radiator hose picks?
3) Should I drain the radiator and cooling system or should I just catch the spill from the tubes?
4) Any tips so not to break anything? Seems likethe connecting pipes are metal.
5) Any problem just does heater hoses and waiting on the radiator hoses till the summer or later date?
6) Do some people lubricate the new hoses with grease/silicone before installing? Bad idea?
Any other thoughts and tips?Well, thanks for mentioning the heater hoses.
On my 03 Honda CRV, the outlet heater hose, at it’s connection near the back of the engine – the rubber looks swollen and it’s a little wet in the area. I smell no coolant, and my reservoir is still full. Im presuming that the hose will probably burst sometime soon. Hopefully it will wait till this weekend!
So Im going from preventative maintenance, to necessary maintenance here…
Ive never replaced heater hoses before. Any tips?
1) I see ECTG use silicone spray on lots of rubber hoses. Seems like a good idea.
2) Do people prefer to pull off the hoses with a hose plier, or do you cut the tubes? or do you use radiator hose picks?
3) Should I drain the radiator and cooling system or should I just catch the spill from the tubes?
4) Any tips so not to break anything? Seems likethe connecting pipes are metal.
5) Any problem just does heater hoses and waiting on the radiator hoses till the summer or later date?
6) Do some people lubricate the new hoses with grease/silicone before installing? Bad idea?
Any other thoughts and tips?So with 145k and 175k on my two cars, with the hoses visually looking and feeling okay, am I in the category of:
1) darn lucky they haven’t spilled coolant all over the place.
2) seen many cars go longer without having any problems.
Or
3) who knows? Some hoses are luckier than others.A followup question: do you guys change out the heater hoses and reservoir hoses at the same time?
So with 145k and 175k on my two cars, with the hoses visually looking and feeling okay, am I in the category of:
1) darn lucky they haven’t spilled coolant all over the place.
2) seen many cars go longer without having any problems.
Or
3) who knows? Some hoses are luckier than others.A followup question: do you guys change out the heater hoses and reservoir hoses at the same time?
What do you guys use to see if a hose has started to deteriorate? I’ve looked and squeezed. They always seem fine to me.:/