[Alex]

Followup again.

P0420 again, seems to come on once every 3 months. Lol. About 8500 miles since last time the loght came on.

Again, no exhaust leaks. Voltages around 0.65 crusing, drops to below 0.1 on deceleration.
Cat temperature 430 precat, 580 postcat.

Went to a smog inspection. Passed. car is emitting virtually no smog on their sniffer. HC and CO are near zero, far below the average car, and far far below smog limits.

[Alex]

Followup again.

P0420 again, seems to come on once every 3 months. Lol. About 8500 miles since last time the loght came on.

Again, no exhaust leaks. Voltages around 0.65 crusing, drops to below 0.1 on deceleration.
Cat temperature 430 precat, 580 postcat.

Went to a smog inspection. Passed. car is emitting virtually no smog on their sniffer. HC and CO are near zero, far below the average car, and far far below smog limits.

[Alex]

Followup: It’s been almost 3 months since the first time, and I had one recurrence of the p0420 about 2 months ago, also again on a rainstorm day.

I checked again for exhaust leaks, none. Volatges were the same, in the normal range. Checking the cat temperature showed 400F pre cat and 540F post cat.

It’s been 1500+ miles since the second time p0420 came on.

It’s the original cat, 180K miles.

[Alex]

Followup: It’s been almost 3 months since the first time, and I had one recurrence of the p0420 about 2 months ago, also again on a rainstorm day.

I checked again for exhaust leaks, none. Volatges were the same, in the normal range. Checking the cat temperature showed 400F pre cat and 540F post cat.

It’s been 1500+ miles since the second time p0420 came on.

It’s the original cat, 180K miles.

[Alex]

Yeah, I did put a code reader to it – no codes.

Wish I could tell you more, but it’s the neighbors car. And he’s not likely to do anything else for the car until he’s stranded somewhere.

I was wondering if there was a general diagnostic checklist of things folks do to figure out crank, no start. It seemed like we did random useless things to the car (other than refilling the oil) and by luck, it started up.

[Alex]

Yeah, I did put a code reader to it – no codes.

Wish I could tell you more, but it’s the neighbors car. And he’s not likely to do anything else for the car until he’s stranded somewhere.

I was wondering if there was a general diagnostic checklist of things folks do to figure out crank, no start. It seemed like we did random useless things to the car (other than refilling the oil) and by luck, it started up.

[Alex]

Regarding the slider pin lubricant;

I have been using the CRC synthetic brake and caliper grease for a few years now. It says it won’t harm rubber parts on the back of the label. I haven’t had problems, but then, that dosent mean that it’s right.

Wondering if CRC is an appropriate equivalent.

I’ll be switching over to the 3m, just don’t know if I should be making an order tomorrow or if I should just wait till my current CRC bottle runs out,

http://www.amazon.com/CRC-Synthetic-Brake-Caliper-Grease/dp/B003NTNPAW

“contains moly, ptfe, and graphite”
“unlike silicone based greases, it will not damage rubber or plastic components, freeze, melt, or wash out”
“applications: … … Caliper slides, bolts & pins… …”

What do you guys think?

[Alex]

Regarding the slider pin lubricant;

I have been using the CRC synthetic brake and caliper grease for a few years now. It says it won’t harm rubber parts on the back of the label. I haven’t had problems, but then, that dosent mean that it’s right.

Wondering if CRC is an appropriate equivalent.

I’ll be switching over to the 3m, just don’t know if I should be making an order tomorrow or if I should just wait till my current CRC bottle runs out,

http://www.amazon.com/CRC-Synthetic-Brake-Caliper-Grease/dp/B003NTNPAW

“contains moly, ptfe, and graphite”
“unlike silicone based greases, it will not damage rubber or plastic components, freeze, melt, or wash out”
“applications: … … Caliper slides, bolts & pins… …”

What do you guys think?

[Alex]

I’ve got plenty of stuff from HF. My only one rule is: if I buy from them, it’s because I need the tool soon or now. If its junk, then it can get returned easily. None of this “I might use it someday” mentality. All that gets me is a potentially bad tool that is past it’s return policy date when I find out it sucked.

I have my share of bad tools from HF. I’ve got my share of sorta okay tools, and my share of good tools from them.

[Alex]

I’ve got plenty of stuff from HF. My only one rule is: if I buy from them, it’s because I need the tool soon or now. If its junk, then it can get returned easily. None of this “I might use it someday” mentality. All that gets me is a potentially bad tool that is past it’s return policy date when I find out it sucked.

I have my share of bad tools from HF. I’ve got my share of sorta okay tools, and my share of good tools from them.

[Alex]

5 years ago, it was Honda Dual pump fluid which was red in color. 2 or 3 years ago, they switched to dual pump fluid II, which is clear-ish in color.

[Alex]

5 years ago, it was Honda Dual pump fluid which was red in color. 2 or 3 years ago, they switched to dual pump fluid II, which is clear-ish in color.

[Alex]

Both are better, depending on the situation, in places where both work,I prefer 6.

[Alex]

Both are better, depending on the situation, in places where both work,I prefer 6.

[Alex]

Deleted. I was getting to caught up in details.

[Author]

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