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I have the same car. While simple, the cooling system is a bit odd in behavior. Its been fun fixing and messing around with it…
When bleeding the system I rarely have the fans kick on when I think they should. I’m not entirely sure but I think both fans should kick on anyways. I’ve never seen just one turn on.
A good CD5 cooling system should not have them kick on so easily. So to bleed it all I do is fill to the point where I see it come out of the bleeder valve. Close it. Start the car and then fill slowly until I can’t anymore. And then I make sure the reservoir is at the full point. From there the system will bleed itself. You may have a slightly rough idle for a few drives but it will go back to normal. The system bleeds itself.
Your engine should not usually heat up past the middle needle even without the fans. Unless its 90˚ out and you’re in stop and go traffic.
I’ve never had it go above 210˚. But oddly enough after having the coolant freeze on me and then changing the newer but now broken thermostat for an old one I had, the temps have actually dropped quite a bit, even though the thermostat I had before was new.
Anyways…
Heres a link to the FSM
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3nQTmw6qDjBcDBSR09uYTZTYmc/edit?usp=sharingGo to page 1145. That has cooling fan trouble shooting and wiring diagrams. You can also test the resistance of the switch while placing it in water over a stove, much like the thermostat test. Water boils at 212˚F so a little before that is when the switch should activate.
So whats your coolant ratio?
Do you have anything under the hood thats modified?I have the same car. While simple, the cooling system is a bit odd in behavior. Its been fun fixing and messing around with it…
When bleeding the system I rarely have the fans kick on when I think they should. I’m not entirely sure but I think both fans should kick on anyways. I’ve never seen just one turn on.
A good CD5 cooling system should not have them kick on so easily. So to bleed it all I do is fill to the point where I see it come out of the bleeder valve. Close it. Start the car and then fill slowly until I can’t anymore. And then I make sure the reservoir is at the full point. From there the system will bleed itself. You may have a slightly rough idle for a few drives but it will go back to normal. The system bleeds itself.
Your engine should not usually heat up past the middle needle even without the fans. Unless its 90˚ out and you’re in stop and go traffic.
I’ve never had it go above 210˚. But oddly enough after having the coolant freeze on me and then changing the newer but now broken thermostat for an old one I had, the temps have actually dropped quite a bit, even though the thermostat I had before was new.
Anyways…
Heres a link to the FSM
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3nQTmw6qDjBcDBSR09uYTZTYmc/edit?usp=sharingGo to page 1145. That has cooling fan trouble shooting and wiring diagrams. You can also test the resistance of the switch while placing it in water over a stove, much like the thermostat test. Water boils at 212˚F so a little before that is when the switch should activate.
So whats your coolant ratio?
Do you have anything under the hood thats modified?Moisture is fine, that actually means your exhaust and engine are working well. As long as there’s no extensive smoke or vapor.
For the EGR you would have to remove the valve and clean it out with carb cleaner.
The car can also behave better over time too. I’m not sure how long you drove the car so I don’t know the extent of the issue. It could just be that what residual cleaners you used are being burned up by the engine and thats causing a surging. But it should go away soon if that.
The ECU would also be getting used to the engine’s behavior. But any significant abnormalities should soon result in a CEL. Then you’ll definitely have a better idea of what’s happening.
What happens if you rev the engine in park/neutral? Is there stumbling in the exhaust when its not under load?
Moisture is fine, that actually means your exhaust and engine are working well. As long as there’s no extensive smoke or vapor.
For the EGR you would have to remove the valve and clean it out with carb cleaner.
The car can also behave better over time too. I’m not sure how long you drove the car so I don’t know the extent of the issue. It could just be that what residual cleaners you used are being burned up by the engine and thats causing a surging. But it should go away soon if that.
The ECU would also be getting used to the engine’s behavior. But any significant abnormalities should soon result in a CEL. Then you’ll definitely have a better idea of what’s happening.
What happens if you rev the engine in park/neutral? Is there stumbling in the exhaust when its not under load?
That trick sometimes works. I find it can be rather hard to tell if it does. But the vacuum gauge does well to tell.
If the car does it when warm then its the o2 sensor. If you have established it doesn’t happen immediately upon driving from a cold start then you can disconnect the o2 sensor and drive it to see if it continues. The car will run in open loop.
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I’m thinking the EGR could be a strong possibility. Its not usually active at idle but will kick in and cause misfiring and stumbling if there is too much entering the intake. That will cause the engine to run lean.That trick sometimes works. I find it can be rather hard to tell if it does. But the vacuum gauge does well to tell.
If the car does it when warm then its the o2 sensor. If you have established it doesn’t happen immediately upon driving from a cold start then you can disconnect the o2 sensor and drive it to see if it continues. The car will run in open loop.
…
I’m thinking the EGR could be a strong possibility. Its not usually active at idle but will kick in and cause misfiring and stumbling if there is too much entering the intake. That will cause the engine to run lean.Wow, my eyes hurt reading that.
Hook up a scanner and check out the readings. Maybe its the o2 sensor. Seeing as you had to do the head gasket for a reason. I’m guessing if it was coolant related then that damaged the sensor. This is if the car only has the issue once its warmed up.
If its the tps then you can tell by looking at your timing at %throttle at closed throttle.
I don’t know much about suzukis so I cant be too specific.
Wow, my eyes hurt reading that.
Hook up a scanner and check out the readings. Maybe its the o2 sensor. Seeing as you had to do the head gasket for a reason. I’m guessing if it was coolant related then that damaged the sensor. This is if the car only has the issue once its warmed up.
If its the tps then you can tell by looking at your timing at %throttle at closed throttle.
I don’t know much about suzukis so I cant be too specific.
If nissans are consistent with their models:
[i]Taken from
http://forums.nicoclub.com/how-to-read-obd1-trouble-codes-for-1993-1995-j-s-t217489.html%5B/i%5DThis article relates to 1993 till 1995 J30/J30t’s with OBD1.
The ECU is located behind the front passenger kick panel, located in the passenger footwell.
Here are the instructions for reading the LED light located on the ECU. The number of blinks correspond to the trouble codes below.
If a malfunction occurs within the ECU/fuel injection system, a diagnostic trouble code may be stored in the ECU and the ‘‘Check Engine’’ lamp will blink. There is also a lamp built into the ECU which will concurrently blink. To read Code output, proceed as follows:
1. Turn ignition On, but do not start engine.
2. Using a small screwdriver, turn diagnostic mode selector switch, located on side of ECU, fully clockwise.
3. Wait two seconds, then rotate switch to full counterclockwise position.
4. A malfunction code can be read as the long (0.6 second) blink, indicating the first digit of a two digit number and the short (0.3 second) blink, indicating the second digit.Ensure that the diagnostic switch is to the full counterclockwise position whenever the vehicle is in use.
Once you have the numeric code, here is what they mean:
11 Crank Angle Sensor
12 Mass Air Flow Sensor
13 ECT Sensor
14 Vehicle Speed Sensor
16 TCS Signal
21 Ignition Signal Circuit
25 Idle Air Control Valve
22 Fuel Pump Control
31 ECM
32 EGR Function
33 Heated Oxygen Sensor
34 Knock Sensor
35 EGR Temperature Sensor (RH)
41 Intake Air Temperature Sensor
42 Fuel Temp Sensor
43 Throttle Position Sensor
45 Injector Leak
46 Secondary Throttle Sensor
51 Injector Analysis
53 EGR Temperature Sensor (LH)
54 Signal Circuit From A/T Control Unit To ECM
65-71 Single Cylinder Or Multiple Cylinder Misfire
72 Three Way catalyst Function
76 Fuel Injection System Function
77 Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor
82 Crankshaft Position Sensor
84 A/T Diagnosis Communication Line
91 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater
103 Park/Neutral Position Switch
105 EGR & Canister Control SolenoidIf nissans are consistent with their models:
[i]Taken from
http://forums.nicoclub.com/how-to-read-obd1-trouble-codes-for-1993-1995-j-s-t217489.html%5B/i%5DThis article relates to 1993 till 1995 J30/J30t’s with OBD1.
The ECU is located behind the front passenger kick panel, located in the passenger footwell.
Here are the instructions for reading the LED light located on the ECU. The number of blinks correspond to the trouble codes below.
If a malfunction occurs within the ECU/fuel injection system, a diagnostic trouble code may be stored in the ECU and the ‘‘Check Engine’’ lamp will blink. There is also a lamp built into the ECU which will concurrently blink. To read Code output, proceed as follows:
1. Turn ignition On, but do not start engine.
2. Using a small screwdriver, turn diagnostic mode selector switch, located on side of ECU, fully clockwise.
3. Wait two seconds, then rotate switch to full counterclockwise position.
4. A malfunction code can be read as the long (0.6 second) blink, indicating the first digit of a two digit number and the short (0.3 second) blink, indicating the second digit.Ensure that the diagnostic switch is to the full counterclockwise position whenever the vehicle is in use.
Once you have the numeric code, here is what they mean:
11 Crank Angle Sensor
12 Mass Air Flow Sensor
13 ECT Sensor
14 Vehicle Speed Sensor
16 TCS Signal
21 Ignition Signal Circuit
25 Idle Air Control Valve
22 Fuel Pump Control
31 ECM
32 EGR Function
33 Heated Oxygen Sensor
34 Knock Sensor
35 EGR Temperature Sensor (RH)
41 Intake Air Temperature Sensor
42 Fuel Temp Sensor
43 Throttle Position Sensor
45 Injector Leak
46 Secondary Throttle Sensor
51 Injector Analysis
53 EGR Temperature Sensor (LH)
54 Signal Circuit From A/T Control Unit To ECM
65-71 Single Cylinder Or Multiple Cylinder Misfire
72 Three Way catalyst Function
76 Fuel Injection System Function
77 Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor
82 Crankshaft Position Sensor
84 A/T Diagnosis Communication Line
91 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater
103 Park/Neutral Position Switch
105 EGR & Canister Control SolenoidSo far the situation looks simpler than it did at first. After fighting to get the car jumped because the immobilizer was being cranky I finally got it running to do some tests. I also checked the alternator’s ability to charge the battery under heavy load, it seemed fine.
After trying a few culprit fuses for amp draw with the car off, I just started pulling one at a time. Turns out it was the radio/infotainment fuse. The amps dropped to <.5 after that. What I was told was that in those cars there's an amp under the driver's seat that tends to get wet and cause shorts from corrosion. This is the main suspect. I will have to go back and check it out. The electrical issues can also cause the Gearbox Malfunction Indicator and other problems. After that was pulled the engine even ran better. So as for the blower motor, that wasn't a blown fuse. It also appears that the motors often get corrosion at the connections. This car is just infested with electrical design flaws. Looking around, Saabs seem to constantly have problems. Fun to drive but not to own.
So far the situation looks simpler than it did at first. After fighting to get the car jumped because the immobilizer was being cranky I finally got it running to do some tests. I also checked the alternator’s ability to charge the battery under heavy load, it seemed fine.
After trying a few culprit fuses for amp draw with the car off, I just started pulling one at a time. Turns out it was the radio/infotainment fuse. The amps dropped to <.5 after that. What I was told was that in those cars there's an amp under the driver's seat that tends to get wet and cause shorts from corrosion. This is the main suspect. I will have to go back and check it out. The electrical issues can also cause the Gearbox Malfunction Indicator and other problems. After that was pulled the engine even ran better. So as for the blower motor, that wasn't a blown fuse. It also appears that the motors often get corrosion at the connections. This car is just infested with electrical design flaws. Looking around, Saabs seem to constantly have problems. Fun to drive but not to own.
Thanks for your help. I posted this on a Saab forum and got a great response. OnStar can be disabled by removing the box and connecting a loopback connector to the fiber optic to allow the rest of the connected electrical to work (i.e radio).
When his battery went dead a year ago the mechanic said it was the onstar. He paid them to ‘disable’ it and that was that.
Funny enough he didn’t mention that AAA had jumpstarted his car backwards. I suspect alternator issues now since that has been reported to be a cause of this gearbox indicator light.
On the forum the guy asked me if the front speakers or blower motor had stopped working. And as a matter of fact the blower had stopped working.
So with the gearbox malfunction indicator it seems that Saabs get them a lot. Sometimes they are harmless and other times they mean a new transmission. If the transmission fluid isn’t milky I guess this is all related.
I watched the parasitic draw test video a quite while ago but will be watching it again now that I need it. And I will definitely read those other links.
Thanks
Thanks for your help. I posted this on a Saab forum and got a great response. OnStar can be disabled by removing the box and connecting a loopback connector to the fiber optic to allow the rest of the connected electrical to work (i.e radio).
When his battery went dead a year ago the mechanic said it was the onstar. He paid them to ‘disable’ it and that was that.
Funny enough he didn’t mention that AAA had jumpstarted his car backwards. I suspect alternator issues now since that has been reported to be a cause of this gearbox indicator light.
On the forum the guy asked me if the front speakers or blower motor had stopped working. And as a matter of fact the blower had stopped working.
So with the gearbox malfunction indicator it seems that Saabs get them a lot. Sometimes they are harmless and other times they mean a new transmission. If the transmission fluid isn’t milky I guess this is all related.
I watched the parasitic draw test video a quite while ago but will be watching it again now that I need it. And I will definitely read those other links.
Thanks