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I asked around other places. Some classic honda enthusiasts quoted about 4000.
The car has been properly maintained but has not needed major engine work. Its a collectable to some. Just a matter of finding those people.
I asked around other places. Some classic honda enthusiasts quoted about 4000.
The car has been properly maintained but has not needed major engine work. Its a collectable to some. Just a matter of finding those people.
I suppose a combo of high engine temps and exhaust soot make EGR a bit trickier to deal with in diesels.
What of egr recirculated from past the cat and particulate filter? That would reduce temps and carbon deposits from the EGR right?
I suppose a combo of high engine temps and exhaust soot make EGR a bit trickier to deal with in diesels.
What of egr recirculated from past the cat and particulate filter? That would reduce temps and carbon deposits from the EGR right?
Thats interesting. Those are diesel engines that run at higher temps though, right? A quick search shows that its a common mod with many diesels.
What I find odd is that the delete mod is claimed to reduce charge temps. Although from what I’ve read is that the EGR will help reduce detonation by reducing the specific heat of the combustion mixture.
So basically by blocking off the EGR you actually increase combustion temps more than the initial exhaust gas would, right?
Thats interesting. Those are diesel engines that run at higher temps though, right? A quick search shows that its a common mod with many diesels.
What I find odd is that the delete mod is claimed to reduce charge temps. Although from what I’ve read is that the EGR will help reduce detonation by reducing the specific heat of the combustion mixture.
So basically by blocking off the EGR you actually increase combustion temps more than the initial exhaust gas would, right?
Yeah. My car almost never throws a CEL unless I purposely unplug something. Although I tend to question how efficient my upstream o2 is…
But I’ll give this a try and see how it goes. Right now I’m getting anywhere from 28 to 31 mpg depending on city:highway ratio. Lets see what happens.
Thanks for your input, Kgevil 😀
Yeah. My car almost never throws a CEL unless I purposely unplug something. Although I tend to question how efficient my upstream o2 is…
But I’ll give this a try and see how it goes. Right now I’m getting anywhere from 28 to 31 mpg depending on city:highway ratio. Lets see what happens.
Thanks for your input, Kgevil 😀
Yeah, this is pretty simple. Its just a pot in series with the valve lift sensor. The ECU would see the EGR valve as more closed than it is and think its opening it less than it really is.
I think the o2 sensors would just see a slightly leaner engine, but still within its stoichiometric range. The EGR is only active during deceleration or light acceleration so I’m not sure if the o2 sensors would influence the AFR that much. Am I right in assuming that?
This will be tried on my 97 Accord. A good experimenting car. In the article he used an Insight, with positive results.
Although, I’m not too sure what to do now that cars are getting smarter than their drivers. 😛
Yeah, this is pretty simple. Its just a pot in series with the valve lift sensor. The ECU would see the EGR valve as more closed than it is and think its opening it less than it really is.
I think the o2 sensors would just see a slightly leaner engine, but still within its stoichiometric range. The EGR is only active during deceleration or light acceleration so I’m not sure if the o2 sensors would influence the AFR that much. Am I right in assuming that?
This will be tried on my 97 Accord. A good experimenting car. In the article he used an Insight, with positive results.
Although, I’m not too sure what to do now that cars are getting smarter than their drivers. 😛
Perhaps its something in the wheel arch or by one of the wheels that is hitting it.
It would make sense that when you brake the front of the car goes lower which would make whatever that is closer to the moving tires as well as hitting a bump would smack it against the tires.
Is everything stock? Recommended tire size? Stock front suspension?
Perhaps its something in the wheel arch or by one of the wheels that is hitting it.
It would make sense that when you brake the front of the car goes lower which would make whatever that is closer to the moving tires as well as hitting a bump would smack it against the tires.
Is everything stock? Recommended tire size? Stock front suspension?