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forgot to mention…never do a flush unless you have major tranny or coolant issues and it is the only method you have left before replacing everything.
forgot to mention…never do a flush unless you have major tranny or coolant issues and it is the only method you have left before replacing everything.
Carbon cleaning helps a lot, does not matter how many miles you have. I have low miles, and I couldn’t pass smog in my chevy tracker. I used Seafoam carbon cleaner and it passed with flying colors. I never recommend fluid flushes. They are easy for shops to upsell because they sound cool and effective. However, they are not and can damage your tranny, cooling, and oil system. Tranny fluid is made to go in one direction. When they do a flush, they flush the fluid backward. This is get debri stuck in little orifices in the valve body. Seen it happen multiple times. I have also seen radiators explode from flushes. Just do a drain and refill. You should never do a flush.
Carbon cleaning helps a lot, does not matter how many miles you have. I have low miles, and I couldn’t pass smog in my chevy tracker. I used Seafoam carbon cleaner and it passed with flying colors. I never recommend fluid flushes. They are easy for shops to upsell because they sound cool and effective. However, they are not and can damage your tranny, cooling, and oil system. Tranny fluid is made to go in one direction. When they do a flush, they flush the fluid backward. This is get debri stuck in little orifices in the valve body. Seen it happen multiple times. I have also seen radiators explode from flushes. Just do a drain and refill. You should never do a flush.
Any codes? This is typically from one of the sensors in the honda distributor going out. The cam, crank, and TDC sensors are in the distributor. If one goes out, the car will typically still run, but poorly. However, I had a 91 civic that had the same exact problem you describe, and I tested it. Turned out to be one sensor in the distributor. If that is the case, you need to replace the distributor.
Any codes? This is typically from one of the sensors in the honda distributor going out. The cam, crank, and TDC sensors are in the distributor. If one goes out, the car will typically still run, but poorly. However, I had a 91 civic that had the same exact problem you describe, and I tested it. Turned out to be one sensor in the distributor. If that is the case, you need to replace the distributor.
if it stays cool on highway driving, it is usually not a thermo issue. Are you losing coolant? Did you check to see if you have air in the system?
if it stays cool on highway driving, it is usually not a thermo issue. Are you losing coolant? Did you check to see if you have air in the system?
does it run okay? If so, clear the codes and see if it comes back.
does it run okay? If so, clear the codes and see if it comes back.
P1133 is bank 1/sensor 1, p1153 is bank 2/sensor 1
P1133 is bank 1/sensor 1, p1153 is bank 2/sensor 1
That is bank 1 sensor 2 or 1/2. The one after the cat on your blazer is bank 1 sensor 3. Both of the sensors closest to the engine have a problem, either bad sensors, vacuum leak, or exhaust leak.
That is bank 1 sensor 2 or 1/2. The one after the cat on your blazer is bank 1 sensor 3. Both of the sensors closest to the engine have a problem, either bad sensors, vacuum leak, or exhaust leak.
If you show 0 amps between battery and cable, then you probably don’t have any parasitic drain. I have seen them read 0 before. What’s the voltage on your battery at 2,000 rpm? 14 volts at idle seems a little high. If you aren’t reading anything on the meter, typically you need to go to a larger figure. Also, you might want to buy an ammeter. You can check parasitic drain without disconnecting any cables.
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