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i sprayed the throttle linkage off. I was going to pull off the air intake to spray the throttle plate tomorrow. I was definitely not thinking it was a vacuum leak because it is intermittent. There is a CEL. I checked it the other day for another issue. It states 02 bank 2/2 heater circuit malfunction. That was before this problem arose though. I am going to check it tomorrow to see if a new code set. I will probably check manufacturer codes. Thanks for the video. Definitely a good tip.
I would check fuel system when that happens again.
Thanks…it scans manufacturer codes as well but I only used global….I did find a vacuum hose disconnected. I think that might have been the problem.
Opposite the throttle body at the upper plenum near master cylinder reservoir.
I always replace the belt, waterpump, tensioner, and idler pulley at the same time
Quoted From 619DioFan:
Was wondering why you are planning this job ? do you have a rod knock or other issues that suggest bad bearings ? first off doing this laying on you back is no easy task. once you drop the pan you will need to rotate the crank to get to each of the rod cap bolts then pull the crank. before even putting in new bearings you will need to verify what size bearings ( what I mean is since you will have wear on both the crank journals and mains you will need a bearing size different from oe size ) you need to use plastiguage to determine the correct rod and main bearing sizes. in all honesty if you suspect a worn bottom end I would just pull the motor and do this on an engine stand. have the motor and all pieces cleaned and check at a machine shop. let them tell you what the wear situation is and what bearings you need and then rebuild the bottom end. you will find this way easier in the end.
Oil pump- unless you plan to add a higher capacity oil pan I would ” not ” add a higher volume oil pump as you run the risk of pumping more oil out of the crank case then is returning and that can lead to a number of problems.
+1
I use 10w-30 in california…5w-30 doesn’t offer enough protection.
January 1, 2012 at 11:00 am in reply to: Should replacing Camshaft seals be part of routine timing belt / water pump maintenance #454024Yes….they are keyed…but you don’t want to turn them too much with the belt off or the valves will hit the pistons
yes that could happen and I would replace the wires.
4 door doesn’t matter…looks like a short in wheel cylinder wiring. I would start by pulling off that wheel and checking it out visually.
does your Honda have issues with low oil pressure or oil leaks?
You should start by fixing the code. Insufficient EGR flow. You say you replaced the EGR valve. You should check the vacuum lines going to the valve to see if they are cracked.
are there any codes? you might want to check your knock sensor
ya…its a pain
you shouldn’t get any amperage reading with the battery disconnected. Why are you checking parasitic drain if you know they left the lights on?
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