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it could be a number of things. does it get worse with speed, or a bumpy road?
my guesses are the tensioner (if it has a spring loaded one) if its an adjustable set up check the idler. the the belt off and spin the pulleys feeling for anything out of the ordinary. that’s a good place to start
you can replace your exhaust. but if it doesn’t leak then Id leave it alone. But replacing exhaust isn’t a easy task with out a lift and some heat. But heat is going to be your biggest friend with this repair
it’d be used on a 1990 Jeep wrangler, 1994 and a 1999 Cherokee, 2001 dodge Durango and a 2001 Saturn and a 2003 ford torus if it works
It wouldn’t hurt to replace the strut bearing as a start. after that or before, lift the car and support it on jack stands. you shouldn’t need to do the rear just jack and support the front. then wiggle the tire at 12 and 6 o’clock position, then 3 and 9. There shouldn’t be and play in when you wiggle it
Does it cause any performance issues and does it do only when it’s cold?
Never would hurt to do spark plugs and a general tune up. After that and it still missfires start looking around or do a power balance test. Eric did a good video on how to do that but it’s hard diagnosing problems that periodically show themselves
That makes sense a friend of mine has a 99′ crv. Cap269 knows what he’s talking about
Oops the gif didn’t work. Oh well. There seems to be a change in its behavior but it still remains the same, maybe hopefully ill get a video on here. I really appreciate the info you guys have given me its defiantly made a difference
The gof pretty much shows what’s going on I finally captured what’s wrong
The compression seems different. I believe the spec is 178 but I could be wrong. And for the sensors I’m not quite sure on specs for those too
Now that you’ve checked for fuel and spark. check and see if the injectors are getting electricity. also start checking sensors like the map sensor and ignition system. after all that check for compression. the list of things to check goes on
I took out the egr since its not that hard and I hooked a vaccum pump up to it and it wouldn’t hold a vacuum on the gage. I guess I shouldn’t be doubting my diagnosis since it seems like solid evidence and since this egr is the original with 251000 miles on it. I put a screw on the vacuum line the hooks up to the egr and notices a improvement and took it for a test drive some where and got some hot chocolate and I go back to start it and it was flooded. So I think it’s a issue with both the Evap and egr
so I checked the egr valve and it doesn’t hold any vacuum. and it appears that its stuck open but I don’t know for sure
Ill check the egr for a good measure since ive checked everything else but that. There’s this thing that I have no idea what does but its called a rollover valve but I don’t know if its part of the Evap or not. But the valve is in rather bad shape so it’ll need replacing anyway. Could this be the vaccum leak I hear?
Here’s a example since I couldn’t get mine out with out breaking it
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