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Update:
Duralast Reman/CV Axle Part # 7078 + Honda seal part # 91206-PL3-A01 = Leaked (installed by mechanic)
Mechanic double checked installation of Honda seal still leaked (part wasn’t damaged)Duralast Reman/CV Axle Part # 7078 + Timken Seal AutoZone part # 4901 (installed by Sir William himself) = NO leaks so far.
Honda dealership did not take my $9.74 seal back, anyone wants it? is in perfect conditions.So far so good. Some days I hate cars it takes too much of my time.
Thanks everyone.
When I installed the new axle the transmission fluid wasn’t drained and my older axle wasn’t leaking either both boots were broken for that reason I decided it was time to replace.
I replaced the new axle then after some driving it started leaking, I had a mechanic replaced the seal with a Honda brand seal was still leaking, so I got a new seal from AutoZone and leak stopped.
I will continue to monitor the leak. Everything good so far.I have the mechanic that installed just the seal double check everything. He mention the CV axle might be the issue, then I asked Honda and they mention some seals don’t work well with aftermarket axles.
I got a Duralast Reman/CV Axle Part Number: 7078 if this means anything to anyone.
Thx for your comments
And yes I can replace the seal without taking the spindle nut, simply removing the castle nut and pin and moving the knuckle out a bit to give me enough room to pop the seal out and replace it.
Great, I had a mechanic adjust the timing : )
I notice I get a bit more power from the engine I think mechanic mention is was a bit off.Thanks Eric.
I can have my dealership check it also.
I was able to find that high idle valve so all I need is a screw driver and 10 minutes.Great, just got your video, there goes $1 towards your bro charity.
I did edit the post about “noise only when clutch was released and neutral” so I’m thinking is a bad input shaft bearings.So let’s say I don’t have history of a timing belt replacement. Is there a way to know for sure if the belt was changed without any mechanic paper record?
Simply checking should do the trick?
Sorry I jumped in with questions.
So lets say I keep the rpm around 2500, how long before I can expect the fan to kick in? I also have the header knob on the heat position and fans tuned off.
I believe I got most if it out, maybe I need to open bleeder valve a bunch of times and repeat and repeat. I was surprise how clean my idle air control valve was. Maybe my idle valve was clean do to the fact that we run 87 octane gasoline over here in Arizona, I’m not sure. Ok sorry of topic.
I wish I can vacuum out the air similar to brakes.
I did a normal drain and refill with one gallon of Prestone Antifreeze / Coolant rediluted 50 / 50. I took the old fluid to a shop for recycling.
I need to drive the reset ECU a bit more to see if my idle can go up a bit. I did clean the Idle control valve and checked for vacuum leaks.
So far so good.I replaced the ECU because it wasn’t shutting off the a/c compressor clutch.
Maybe I get a low idle because of the a/c load. I’ll have AutoZone check the alternator to see how much power I’m getting. Battery should be good.