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Awesome, I wanted to see if there was anything I could do to save the battery. I was able to get a new one so far so good.
Thanks everyone.Oh wow a tool for every job. I wonder if I have any room. I don’t think the tool works for this type of condenser.
Oh wow, some great information. I wish I knew exactly the amount of oil I should use. I guess I could drain and measure the amount taken out.
Now if the freon moves this oil around how do I go about draining the oil out? I had a Honda dealership convert the system to R134A but not sure if they did a flush or even replaced my dryer…
Now if I install a new compressor and vacuum the system is this oil getting pumped out? confuse a bit?
My goal is to put enough oil to make the system work cold but not over charge it.
Great info thank you for taking the time.
Now, what about oil to the rest of the components? The video indicates flushing and cleaning the evaporator and line.
I will for sure have a professional recharge the system. I will call the dealership to see if a flush was done, I’m thinking yes but I don’t trust mechanics much they never explain what they do, is all a guessing game.I guess having enough oil for the compressor is the most important part since is all moving parts.
Yes A/C works, not the coldest system but it works… I did notice that it’s been stopping blowing cold air after a long period maybe a day or two then the next morning is back on blowing cold air. I did notice a super small oil and dye leak (checked with black light) coming from under the compressor. So not sure what to do next.
The evaporator valve was changed by a Honda dealership.
I most definitively have a super small leak. I was about half a pound low on freon after one month of full charge and use (according to mechanic fancy A/C machine).
I will investigate if the dealership did a flush when converting to R134A or if they put any oil and what type.
So why is the A/C works in the morning, maybe for 40 or 50 miles then I stop the car… then A/C won’t work then park the car over night then it works after after.
Pressure switch?
Low on freon? That’s what I’m thinking.
or something else?Remember is one million degrees here in Phoenix.
The A/C is not super cold, I need to measure its temperature, but it works on and off.
Last time the mechanic checked it was low so I want to rule out is the freon level not the switch.
I love A/C but I hate A/C’s.
Honda dealership mechanic just ensured me that the R12 system oil works find with PAG oil. My A/C system wasn’t flushed or cleaned before conversion to R134. The receiver dryer wasn’t replaced because the system wasn’t open for a long period of time not sure how long is a long time I want to guess 6 months?
Ok so leave both low and high pressure switches out of the equation? 99% is low on freon.
Any possible way to straighten the fins on the condenser to increase air flow? I think my Honda dealership down the road offers to straighten the fins as a repair service.
Thanks everyone for your feedback and comments. The battery wasn’t taking a charge at all… it was still powering stuff but it was slowly choking and struggled on start ups. I will monitor the charge of this new battery to make sure the alternator is charging this new one.
The last thing I need is a bad alternator.
I changed my passenger side with a reman axle, I was getting a leak but no noise, I put an aftermarket seal and everything is working so far. I bet is the axle, post your results. 93 civic LX.
Good good, I was able to pick some Honda cables for $52.87, they price matched to Majestic Honda.
Thanks everyone.Previews owner had no history of replacement, I could have checked the ohms but I went ahead and got me 32722-P01-405 (price matched $53 to Majestic Honda) wires from my Honda Dealership, my old ones were labeled Z-16 LE-E Sumitomo 1992. What can I say I like a good clean spark reason to replace.
I need to clean those cables check them and sell them maybe, I don’t see any cracks.
New cables look great. I like how they are labeled #1, #2, #3, #4 for idiots like me.
May 28, 2012 at 11:00 am in reply to: Hydraulic Clutch Pedal Adjustment after Master Cylinder Removal #447414Ok so I was able to adjust the rod to give me some free play, it had no free play before. This manual made things a bit more confusing with switches adjustments. Thanks for your comments.
I put ZFR5F-11 NGK plugs on a D15B7 engine.
My manual says to use the ZFR6F-11 NGK also for hot climates and high speed driving, not sure if I should replace my current plugs with these hot climate plugs… is hot in Arizona.
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