[sir]

well ive learned the signal form the speedo to the abs from the abs to the pcm is all different ad if i bypass it it would likely fry the pcm so back to square one. i tore the dash apart the other day looking for a broken wire or corroded connector and i only found one spot with corrosion although not very much and i soldered jump wires with a new connector around the original connector to bypass the corroded pins in the connector. and still after all that work the speedo is still not working correctly it has 0 effect on it. i learned of a self test and did the self test on the cluster and all the needles and lights worked as they should through the test. im lost as to what the issue is im about to buy a gps to stick in the window and tell them to use that for a speedo.

[sir]

ok updates ive found pinouts but not sure what wire to jump into the pcm. there is 2 wires from the rear sensor coming to the abs module a + signal and a – signal. the abs module then sends out a singal speed signal to the pcm but is that signal + or – the wiring diagrams are not telling me this.

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[sir]

if its leaking that fast you should be able to run it and watch where the oils coming from

[sir]

this may or may not be the information you want. 3 years ago i had someone back into my car and crunched in the passenger fender. progressive at the time gave me an 800 dollar check for the damages witch i simply deposited into my bank account then bought a new fender already painted the right color for 100 bucks installed it myself and kept the other 700.

[sir]

does anyone have acces to wiring diagrams for the 1998 dodge ram 1500? im looking for a schismatic for the abs rwal module with pinout of the connector if possible. im trying to figure out what wires would have to be jumped to allow the speed signal to bypass the abs module and go strait to the cluster.

[sir]

update i followed the wires from the rear speed sensor up to this computer module near the brake lines i think it may be an abs module and verified the wires are not broken between the sensor and this module using a volt meter but i do not know what path the wire takes after leaving that module as i cannot locate any kind of pinout of that module anywhere.

[sir]

well the local junkyards dont have any of my car so i turned to ebay. im reading now that if i replace the ecm ill have to have it reflashed will i need to do this considering i would be replacing the ecm with the exact same part numbered ecm? its a 1998 outback and has no security stuff in it.

[sir]

M

yet more updates. i had some help today and learned the switched side of the relays powers are all good i can bypass every relay and get the fans to come on. i also learned the relay in the drivers foot ares is the main fans relay if i jumper this relay through i get my main fan to come on and it also makes the missing power i had in the engine compartment relay be there. i believe my issue lies before the main fan relay inside the car witch im assuming is going right from that relay over to the ecu. how likely is it the ecu could be bad? anyone from the ct area willing to allow me to try their ecu?

[sir]

that diagram looks nothing like the one i have in the haynes repair manual. witch one should i follow? i can say the one in the manual i have makes sense to whats in my car.

this is the diagram i have

[URL=http://s163.photobucket.com/user/estatesbburnin/media/20170510_132333_zpsi364qnso.jpg.html][IMG]http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t290/estatesbburnin/20170510_132333_zpsi364qnso.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[sir]

did some more checks i jumped power into the fan and the fan does spin up. i have been looking at it backwards its the a/c fan that is running and the main fan is not coming on. i found another relay for the main fan above the under dash fuse box and swapped it with its known working friend the rear defroster and still have no main fan running. im pretty sure the relays are all good as they will all turn on the a/c fan. what is the chances the ecu could be bad? the wiring diagram i have shows there controlled by the ecm. im fairly capable of electrical work but not so great at diagnosing it.

[sir]

u can just call me sir in the live show

hey long time watcher of the videos keep up the great work. i have a 1998 outback that has a 1995 legacy engine in it the ej22. im having an issue when sometimes as i come to a stop the engine will stall out it restarts just fine and will do this cold or warm this issue is random.
what could be causing this? 214,000 miles on the engine 264,000 on the body

im also experiencing a shaking steering wheel when i apply the brakes i have changed both front rotors with no affect to the issue can the rear rotors cause a wheel shake as well?

[sir]

i figured id show off the results. im not too happy with the gap issue under the passenger headlight but it was kind of expected as that is the side that took the main hit of the crash. he was very happy with the results. he decided to not recharge the a/c until summer comes but at least the system is sealed back up now and everything is there and working.

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[sir]

hi eric ive been watching your videos for a few years now and ive learned alot i have a 1998 subaru outback i recently purchased with a bad engine and i swapped the engine from my 95 legacy wagon witch had a bad rust issue anyways after the swap everything worked fine but i had a vibration around 10 through 35 mph i thoght it was a transmission issue as it feels like a transmission chatter so before my legacy went to scrap i pulled the transmission driveshaft and rear diff i swapped these parts into my 98 outback and the 1-0 – 35 mph can my cv axles cause this vibration? its still there and the trans i installed did not have any issues before the swap.

[Author]

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