Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
[quote=”barneyb” post=134151]A Subaru engine of this vintage probably needs an engine out refresh. They are known for blowing head gaskets. It should be on the routine maintenance list – every x thousand of miles replace head gaskets. And yes they do sometimes leak oil at the head gasket. More common is for the valve cover to leak.
If you want to know for sure you can raise the car and look. Some of the block to head mating surface is visible. But I’d suggest just going ahead and getting it done.[/quote]
Thanks barneyb. It will get done eventually. It’s 1/3 the value of the car, so not enough to justify getting another car. Now, anyone got a spare $2000 they want to hand over? 😛
[quote=”Koinonia” post=134108]My old ’93 Subaru had a Head Gasket leak on the passenger side, that would leak only when running when cool, before warming up, when it would seal again. Same symptoms as you, same problem, same oil burn rate.
I ended up trading the Subaru in on a new car a few months ago. The issue was at the rear lower corner of the head – it was discolored and definitely wet.
Regarding the vibration in the wheel – Definitely diagnose that issue before replacing parts. Could be suspension related, could be steering, or it could just be out of balance tires, like you said.[/quote]
Thanks for the reply. That’s interesting. I didn’t think the 2.2’s leaked out of the head gaskets. As far s the vibrations, I don’t know if it is suspension related or not. I need to replace the front passenger axel as the boot ruptured about 8000 mi ago and makes noises sometimes when turning. Could that be the issue? The tires are needing to be replaced soon, so when I do that, we will see if it goes away. The mechanic recommended an alignment and new tires, so that will be in the works eventually. It would be nice to get another car (not another Subaru, sadly) but can’t at the moment. I own my car, have no car payment, and don’t want one.
Thanks again!
Thanks for the reply. It said in the diagnostic report that they did just that- cleaned off the bottom of the engine and then checked for leaks. I suspected the front cam or rear cam seals (also common for leaks), but they are good. The oil isn’t going on the manifolds themselves, but it’s blowing back onto the y-pipe that connects the two pipes coming off the headers, right above the front of the transmission. I can see where the oil has burned on the heat shields. That’s why I suspected a rear main seal or oil pan. I didn’t think to look at the head gaskets, but from the sound of it, that’s the issue.
Thanks!
Napa is expensive. Almost as much as the dealership.
I’ve heard of Cardone and they are a decent quality part. Auto part resellers often put their brand on parts (Duralast, for example), but they are really made by a bigger company for them. Rock Auto is able to charge less because they deal in volume and get parts as wholesale or below, but you don’t know for sure what kind of part you’re getting. Could be a one-hung-lo China brand that will break as soon as you unbox it.
You could go either way, the reman dealership part or the new part from the auto parts store. Keep in mind, that some of the ones you get from the auto parts store are remans too. Nothing wrong with remans as long as they are a reputable brand. Like I said before, get the best one you can afford. You get what you pay for with auto parts. A lifetime warranty (at least at my parts store) means you can return it if it breaks or fails after you install it. Cost Less Auto Parts is the place I go first for parts. Decent-quality non-OEM parts and OEM for good prices.
For misfires random cylinders, it means more than one cylinder is misfiring. It could be anything: low fuel pressure (bad fuel pump or clogged fuel filter), bad battery (believe it or not), spark plugs, spark plug wires, vacuum leak(s), jumped timing. You replaced the fuel filter, so you could rule that out. Check it for vacuum leaks around the intake manifold and vacuum lines, anything behind the MAF sensor. Check your spark plugs for wear. Test your battery. Check your timing and spark plug wires. Check your fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Might be a bad fuel pressure regulator, too.
As far as the distributor, get the OEM remanufactured part or one from a reputable manufacturer. It’s tempting to get it from eBay and save a ton of money, but it’s hit-and-miss. There’s a reason they can sell them so cheap! It’s always better to air on the side of caution because it’s a pain to have to return it. If you do, rest assured that eBay’s buyer protection is legendary. Check the refund and return policies for the seller.
Thanks! Sorry for the late reply (holiday rush). The tutorial for the backlight replacement was really great. I will use it when I do the replacement. Do you know what bulb it takes? The tutorial says 158 type? It also said there’s a blue cover for it. Do you need that cover because it said it doesn’t come off the old lamp? The gas smell has gone away. If it comes back, I will look over the evap hoses. Thanks! Merry Christmas!
Thanks! Sorry for the late reply (holiday rush). The tutorial for the backlight replacement was really great. I will use it when I do the replacement. Do you know what bulb it takes? The tutorial says 158 type? It also said there’s a blue cover for it. Do you need that cover because it said it doesn’t come off the old lamp? The gas smell has gone away. If it comes back, I will look over the evap hoses. Thanks! Merry Christmas!
I should have mentioned that it mainly does it in cold weather, like when it gets 40 degrees or less. I don’t notice it during the warmer months here in WA State. I had heard that this wasn’t uncommon to the EJ25 motor due to the configuration of the engine (horizontal cylinders). I just don’t know if it’s something to be concerned about. I’ve had it to a mechanic last year about this same time (August) for a service related to a CEL, and it doesn’t do it when it’s warm, so there was no way for them to hear the sound :unsure:
I should have mentioned that it mainly does it in cold weather, like when it gets 40 degrees or less. I don’t notice it during the warmer months here in WA State. I had heard that this wasn’t uncommon to the EJ25 motor due to the configuration of the engine (horizontal cylinders). I just don’t know if it’s something to be concerned about. I’ve had it to a mechanic last year about this same time (August) for a service related to a CEL, and it doesn’t do it when it’s warm, so there was no way for them to hear the sound :unsure:
Just wanted to give an update.
I put in the Techron in both my cars (the Ford and the Subaru), and noticed a smoother idle in both. The Ford naturally had a slight choppy idle, but it’s smoothed out. I guess it’s working! No noticeable gain in power or fuel economy though.
Just wanted to give an update.
I put in the Techron in both my cars (the Ford and the Subaru), and noticed a smoother idle in both. The Ford naturally had a slight choppy idle, but it’s smoothed out. I guess it’s working! No noticeable gain in power or fuel economy though.
Thanks guys. I got some Techron concentrate. It was buy one get one free at Oreillys. We’ll see how it works!
Thanks again.
Thanks guys. I got some Techron concentrate. It was buy one get one free at Oreillys. We’ll see how it works!
Thanks again.
Ok, so update! (I promised).
I got the car back from the shop Monday. They did a diagnosis, and lo and behold it was a failed PCV hose causing a vacuum leak. I suspected it was either that or a fuel problem, but they smoke tested it and found the leak. They recommended replacing the hose and the valve. I had pleaded and prayed it would be something simple and it was! The parts will cost about $6. I am also going to replace the fuel filter, air filter, and run some fuel system cleaner through it.
I had a question about that too…
Hopefully that will help the DTC so I can pass emissions!
Thanks!
FYI, it passed emissions just fine! Runs a lot better! We did the brakes and a left outer tie rod. The auto parts store (Costless) charged $10 for the replacement, and it had a zerk fitting so it’s serviceable! The original wasn’t. The PCV hose was a bear to fix, had to use off-shelf elbows (both were broken and disintegrating) and modify one of the broken original elbows with a knife and some electrical tape. Otherwise we’d have to order one from Ford (the whole hose assembly) for something like $70. The fuel filter was the original and very dirty. So a happy ending! Thanks for all the help and insights! You guys rock.