Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Follow up- so I had my car back from the shop a couple weeks ago. Had them go over the crank sensor, which tested fine. No definitive word on the misfiring, other than it isn’t behaving like it’s misfiring. On the scan tool no misfires on the counter
Now a new issue. It’s gotten colder at night in the last couple days (low 40’s) and now the transmission is really hard to shift into 1st, 2nd, and reverse when cold. (5 speed). 1st is the hardest, and it didn’t do this until after all the work was done: new everything behind the flywheel (flywheel that was resurfaced), new trans fluid too. It goes away when it’s warmed up, but for 8 minutes it sucks to drive and I suspect it will only get worse as it gets colder. Before I take the car back for the 4th time, any thoughts?
Thanks
It just completely turns off? No sputtering, chugging? That’s totally weird. A modern car like that will tell you when something is wrong to cause that. like a lean code P0171, or misfire P030x.
It could be a vacuum leak, but if it gets bad enough your car will run like crap all the time, rough idle, etc.
Maybe a problem with the PCM? You’d have other issues though.
A bad crank position sensor. That won’t necessarily throw a CEL, but can cause that issue.
If none of those sound right, take it to a mechanic and have them drive it to get a diagnosis.
A bad wheel bearing makes a distinctive sound that changes with speed. Of the wheel bearings I’ve experienced gone bad, it’s more of a roaring or grinding noise as around 30 mph and up. It c.an get louder a high speeds, or might even get a little quieter. A CV joint that’s gone bad will make noise when turning…clunk, clunk, clunk, you might feel it through the steering wheel if it gets bad. When you get that clunk, replace the whole axle. The CV joint is trashed as soon as the grease is gone. To diagnose the wheel bearing, get the suspect wheel off the ground, keep the tire on, car in neutral, and spin the wheel. It should be more or less quiet. If it makes a grinding noise or whooshing noise, then it’s the bearing. Get a new wheel bearing from the auto parts store or Amazon. Pull the steering knuckle and hub assembly off and take it to the machine shop to have the old bearing pressed out and the new one pressed in. Put it back together and enjoy a quiet ride. Your car might be different, but that’s the general procedure. Hope it helps.
Code is P0420 I think for the catalytic converter. I wouldn’t think it would cause an issue, but it’s done that before repeatedly after clearing the code.
How do I go about testing all of those areas?
Thanks for the reply!
Hey thanks for the video. I ended up tearing into the knuckle and pulled the axle. I took it back to Autozone and got it replaced. It helped the noise, but didn’t completely take it away. I don’t know what it could be. I inspected the axle and hub splines and didn’t see anything unusual, no abnormal wear or anything. Could it be something in the drive train? Some have suggested transmission mounts or carrier bearings for the drive shafts? Any suggestions on where to go from here?
Thanks!
Hi. There’s no traction control. This model Subaru didn’t have VDC.
Thanks.
BTW- LOVE the GNX- Best Buick ever.
Hey thanks for the reply. I had checked all of that out before. The lines are good and the exhaust shields aren’t rattling. We just had the front wheels off a month ago and everything looked good- nothing out of the ordinary. The noise isn’t like there’s something loose. It sounds exactly like the ABS pump is active. is it doing some kind of self test when the car starts rolling?
Thanks.
Thanks for the info! Are these readings normal? I remember watching Eric’s video (and others) on the P0420 on his 90’s Subaru and the Odssey and the sensors shows voltages sometimes well under 1v, like .300mV-900mV. Also, what’s the wide-range voltage? I’ve never seen that before? So far the MIL hasn’t come back on so that’s good because the replacement catalytic converters for this car are sold as a unit and is $1000+ :blink: I have heard that the Subaru cats last a very long time and don’t go bad unless something else causes it. I did do some recording of sensor data and the waveforms looked good when the car was driving at a steady speed around 2000 rpms.
I forgot to say I found the source of the vibrations. It’s the tires. I got new tires and the vibration went away! I also got an alignment.
Thanks!
Sorry I haven’t replied to this post in a while!
Well I did find the source of the leak. It’s leaking right out by the oil filter mount where the block meets the head. I noticed it when i did the oil change. and ran the car. It gets worse with higher rpms. It’s also starting to leak from the valve covers and there’s possibly another leak from somewhere else towards the back. It’s also leaking coolant from the driver side head gasket now and has gotten worse. it’s external, not internal, so I’ve been dealing with it and keeping the radiator topped off every few days. I’ll have it fixed soon-just waiting for income tax check! I got a quote for a hair under $2000 for the timing belt job and fixing the HG’s. They want to resurface the heads, but it’s never overheated before so I am not sure if I want them to do that and save $300. Any suggestions?
Thanks!
Sorry for letting this go. There is and was no check engine light on. Fuses seem OK, everything works besides the odometer and trip. Speedo and tach and temp/fuel gauges all work fine. The ODO is stuck at 145000 on the dot and the trip hasn’t budged even after pushing in the reset plunger. It’s been a while and there’s no change. I am thinking of just leaving it and changing the oil every 5 months (the car isn’t driven much). I did look at the diagram and read through the posts for the link, and it didn’t help much.
If anyone has any other suggestions, feel free to chime in.
Thanks!
Hi! It’s a 1999 Ford Escort ZX2. It has the analog odometer. I tried resetting the trip meter, but it hasn’t moved since I reset it.
Thanks!