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:cheer: Good news fellow car buffs. Found the cause of the no brake light 3rd light or high brake light not to lite up. Somebody before me owning this car must of had some sort of brake light problem. These Honda Accords are wired in series. So if any of the bulbs on that circuit fail it reports to the dash board heads up to the operator that a brake light is out. Well, I found the circuit that is suppose to provide this power to the high mount light. Right side brake light has an extra circuit that feeds off the brake lights as the left side brake light has an extra circuit to provide a trailer hook up with the standard turn signals running lights and brakes. That right side circuit had been change by somebody in the recent past for what ever reason unknown to me. I ran a jumper from the supply side of the brake switch to the high mount light as the grounds were all found to be intact. The Green wire with a blue trace is suppose to back feed from the Green wire with a yellow trace but that blue trace wire ended up going to no where. That is why I had no brake light on the high mount 3rd brake light but had brake lights on the rear of the car.
To figure this all out I had to pretty much tear apart the whole insides of the car to get to all the wire runs. Well.. now it is time to put it all back together. Problem solved. Thank you everyone for all the post and suggestions along the way on this one.:cheer: Good news fellow car buffs. Found the cause of the no brake light 3rd light or high brake light not to lite up. Somebody before me owning this car must of had some sort of brake light problem. These Honda Accords are wired in series. So if any of the bulbs on that circuit fail it reports to the dash board heads up to the operator that a brake light is out. Well, I found the circuit that is suppose to provide this power to the high mount light. Right side brake light has an extra circuit that feeds off the brake lights as the left side brake light has an extra circuit to provide a trailer hook up with the standard turn signals running lights and brakes. That right side circuit had been change by somebody in the recent past for what ever reason unknown to me. I ran a jumper from the supply side of the brake switch to the high mount light as the grounds were all found to be intact. The Green wire with a blue trace is suppose to back feed from the Green wire with a yellow trace but that blue trace wire ended up going to no where. That is why I had no brake light on the high mount 3rd brake light but had brake lights on the rear of the car.
To figure this all out I had to pretty much tear apart the whole insides of the car to get to all the wire runs. Well.. now it is time to put it all back together. Problem solved. Thank you everyone for all the post and suggestions along the way on this one.No voltage found at the socket. The bulb test good using alligator clips from the battery post to the bulb. So no need for another bulb. The socket is clean and shinny with no indication of any moisture deposits or corrosion. The wiring looks to be in perfect shape. Going to explore that brake light switch perhaps the 3rd light is controlled via that same brake light switch assembly. Still looking.
No voltage found at the socket. The bulb test good using alligator clips from the battery post to the bulb. So no need for another bulb. The socket is clean and shinny with no indication of any moisture deposits or corrosion. The wiring looks to be in perfect shape. Going to explore that brake light switch perhaps the 3rd light is controlled via that same brake light switch assembly. Still looking.
May be some help here. Check out my post on 96 Plymouth Voyager 2.4L no start. Posted about 1+ ago. Anyway,
the long and short of it. Turned out it was my Engine Computer Module was faulty. Replaced it with another
one and it was faulty as well. Replaced it again and that one worked. Weird thing is got no bad codes at all. It was the very last thing that ended up fixing the no start condition. Due to the cost it was the last thing to try. The little red van been running just fine every since. Sirerma.May be some help here. Check out my post on 96 Plymouth Voyager 2.4L no start. Posted about 1+ ago. Anyway,
the long and short of it. Turned out it was my Engine Computer Module was faulty. Replaced it with another
one and it was faulty as well. Replaced it again and that one worked. Weird thing is got no bad codes at all. It was the very last thing that ended up fixing the no start condition. Due to the cost it was the last thing to try. The little red van been running just fine every since. Sirerma.Thank you everyone who offered help and to those who just read the post. UPDATE….NEWS FLASH!!!!!!!!
Well it seems that the real no start problem was due to a weak fuel pump. Even though it seemed to be functioning and would start up in a cold condition but would not stay running. Replaced the fuel pump with a used one out of a wrecking yard, off the same basic BMW motor anyway type car and installed that pump. The BMW is now running and is able to start up and stay running again. So why did it run on the first place upon the replacement of the fuel pump relay? Hum…not sure. Well we will see if it will stay running with easy start ups over this weekend. Parts is parts. Thanks everyone. 🙂Thank you everyone who offered help and to those who just read the post. UPDATE….NEWS FLASH!!!!!!!!
Well it seems that the real no start problem was due to a weak fuel pump. Even though it seemed to be functioning and would start up in a cold condition but would not stay running. Replaced the fuel pump with a used one out of a wrecking yard, off the same basic BMW motor anyway type car and installed that pump. The BMW is now running and is able to start up and stay running again. So why did it run on the first place upon the replacement of the fuel pump relay? Hum…not sure. Well we will see if it will stay running with easy start ups over this weekend. Parts is parts. Thanks everyone. 🙂With the help of College Man getting the link over for a schematic layout of the BMW 635 relay’s. Was able to locate the fuel pump relay and replaced it. Hey that worked! Well sort of any way. The engine started up and was able to drive it 10 miles no problems up to 89 miles an hour and at lower street based driving and
at various speeds due to stop lights and stop signs, so parked the Car for the rest of the day thinking that was it. Feeling pretty good about it running again. So later that same day after about 7 hours or so went to start it up and again nothing. No Start. What the heck is going on here? Back to the drawing board. Now what? :sick:With the help of College Man getting the link over for a schematic layout of the BMW 635 relay’s. Was able to locate the fuel pump relay and replaced it. Hey that worked! Well sort of any way. The engine started up and was able to drive it 10 miles no problems up to 89 miles an hour and at lower street based driving and
at various speeds due to stop lights and stop signs, so parked the Car for the rest of the day thinking that was it. Feeling pretty good about it running again. So later that same day after about 7 hours or so went to start it up and again nothing. No Start. What the heck is going on here? Back to the drawing board. Now what? :sick:banana: Hey everybody the little mini van is now running! We replaced the computer (P.C.M.) as come to find out the first one I got was not correct for my car so they swapped it for another replacement computer and we are alive again. Back on the road again! Thanks to everyone with all the helpful items to check along the way. It has been a long time in trying everything.
banana: Hey everybody the little mini van is now running! We replaced the computer (P.C.M.) as come to find out the first one I got was not correct for my car so they swapped it for another replacement computer and we are alive again. Back on the road again! Thanks to everyone with all the helpful items to check along the way. It has been a long time in trying everything.
For all of you that said it is not the P.C.M. you were all correct. After I had the dealership diagnosis the condition that quoted me $750.00 for a new P.C.M. I declined and ordered one myself. It arrived already programmed for a plug and play install. Well, still have the exact same issue. Cranks but won’t start and no codes. Now what? Can I get a refund on my professional diagnosis? Will the dealership honor a incorrect diagnosis?
For all of you that said it is not the P.C.M. you were all correct. After I had the dealership diagnosis the condition that quoted me $750.00 for a new P.C.M. I declined and ordered one myself. It arrived already programmed for a plug and play install. Well, still have the exact same issue. Cranks but won’t start and no codes. Now what? Can I get a refund on my professional diagnosis? Will the dealership honor a incorrect diagnosis?
How is the wiring to the Throttle Position Sensor and Air Flow mass meter? I had to replace mine with some good old ones out of a wrecking yard. Saved me a bunch of money and solved my idle issues. You might have damaged those wires while working on the lifter assembly so I would start there and take a closer look make sure nothing got pinched. Two sensors right at the throttle body and they are sensitive. I have found my Jeeps like only Jeep parts so don’t rely on aftermarket replacement parts cause they just don’t work well with Jeeps. Crank position sensor is one that I know for a fact. I really like the Jeeps they are pretty easy to work on and reliable low cost buggies. Still have a couple in the family getting there share of use on our rural property. We do abuse them regularly.
