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Being a stubborn DIY’er, I decided to waste some time and investigate further.
[IMG]http://i40.tinypic.com/30rv88j.jpg[/IMG]
There is a pic of the coil that burned up in the clutch beside a good coil. I got a used compressor to pull off the entire clutch set off of for very cheap.
I swapped the clutch set and I got ice cold air for a few minutes the replacement coil was starting to fail the same way, and I shut it down before it burned up as bad as this one.
I am a little confused as to what happened in there to cause this clutch burning. There are no leaks, (verified by a/c mechanic a few weeks ago) and this system has been factory sealed for 13 years, never been serviced. My only guess is that something in the system is causing this. Have you heard of black death and do you think this is a possibility in my A/C system?
I’m just posting to follow up, because knowledge is power for other people trying to diagnose, I realize that I am likely going to have to replace the compressor, dryer, and my condensor is missing fins anyways, so that as well. Along with a flush of some kind.
Being a stubborn DIY’er, I decided to waste some time and investigate further.
[IMG]http://i40.tinypic.com/30rv88j.jpg[/IMG]
There is a pic of the coil that burned up in the clutch beside a good coil. I got a used compressor to pull off the entire clutch set off of for very cheap.
I swapped the clutch set and I got ice cold air for a few minutes the replacement coil was starting to fail the same way, and I shut it down before it burned up as bad as this one.
I am a little confused as to what happened in there to cause this clutch burning. There are no leaks, (verified by a/c mechanic a few weeks ago) and this system has been factory sealed for 13 years, never been serviced. My only guess is that something in the system is causing this. Have you heard of black death and do you think this is a possibility in my A/C system?
I’m just posting to follow up, because knowledge is power for other people trying to diagnose, I realize that I am likely going to have to replace the compressor, dryer, and my condensor is missing fins anyways, so that as well. Along with a flush of some kind.
Honda B and D series are the same. There is a 3/8 inch drive bolt a few inches higher than the drain bolt which you open up and fill from. (Stick the 3/8 breaker bar or ratchet in with no socket) With the car level you fill fluid in with plastic pipe fished down from the engine bay until it starts to drip out of the top bolt hole. Obviously you would do this after you have tightened up
_x000D_
The timing belt was done a month or so before I bought the car. I have the receipt and confirmed the Continental belt installed when I did the valve coverOil change was done when i got the car with 5w30. My owners manual says to use 5w20. My European service manual says 5W30 and doesnt
No problem, Also Try to mark how the bolts line up on the subframe, I didn’t and it messed my alignment up a bit. There is a little bit of wiggle in terms of how the subframe can bolt back in. It set the caster off a bit if I recall correctly. Remember yo
Ok, I pulled the bottom splash sheild cover to take a better look.
After a cold start the noise and wobble is not present at all.
As soon as the engine heats up, the wobble and whine become more apparent, and when the engine is full operating temperature, it is at its worstDoes this new information shed any light?
This may just be a case of crappy Drive by Wire ecu programming. I suspect you just didn’t notice until you got comfortable in your car.
I know 2006+ Civics are like this also, Step on the gas and there is a definite time lag before the computer accepts and implements this driver input.
It really bothers me for some reason when there is no direct cable connection from the gas pedal to the throttle body. I know that higher performance cars don’t have this lag issue.. but it still bothers me.
So, I had the vehicle up on jackstands to pull a tow hitch off it, decided to jack up all four corners off the ground and put it in gear to see what happens. Here is what happened.
3 Tires Spin, Left Front, Both Rears, but the Right Front remains dead still. The one front seems to be spinning faster than the others.
So what is messed up in this system?
I still cant wrap my head around what is going on in these part time 4 wheel drive systems.Thanks guys,
I will change the not so old dual pump fluid out of my Good CR-V and recycle it into the parts car one day when I get a chance. It only takes one bottle, but I wouldn’t even want to dump that much money into this thing, hehe. Will take pics of what the fluid looks like and update this thread.Wow, didn’t expect replies this soon..
These awds are the type that only activate the rear wheels when the front wheels lose grip. No way to switch modes, it does it all on its own.Quoted From dreamer2355:
Did you look in your service manual to see how the vehicle is to be towed?
To be towed on all fours or all four wheels off the ground. Very vauge, no specific reason as to why. This post is not intended to clear up how AWD’s should be towed, rather, to understand why AWD’s need to be towed this way and what gets damaged when the rule isn’t followed.