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OK, so from what I know now, there is difference between regular and synthetic oil.. Synthetic oils have additives that lower the viscosity, so are better in winter and have reduced amounts of sulphur (which apperantly can form sludge that can damage catalyst?). They often have lower chloride level, so are “better” for the environment and do not wear as much as regular oils. Then again, every oil looses the “cold-start” viscosity very quickly, so you should change oil and filter together twice a year. People who drive short distances and rarely, should you synthetic oils most of the time, in winter 0W or 5W. Otherwise, it doesn’t really matter as long as you change oil frequently. On “all-season” oils, they suck form one point of view. Winter oil should be 0W or 5W form most people, and summer should have higher viscosity for hot weather. Change oil according to season and you should be fine with either regular or synthetic. I would go for synthetic, because I don’t drive a lot.
Basically, synthetic oils are regular oils, without most of the “bad” things in them, that are not needed in the first place. Sure, this would make a huge difference for “heavy duty” engines or aircrafts, but for day-to-day cars, it doesn’t.
Synthetics are more expensive due to being modified more than others. This takes time and someone has to get paid for it, right?
OK, so from what I know now, there is difference between regular and synthetic oil.. Synthetic oils have additives that lower the viscosity, so are better in winter and have reduced amounts of sulphur (which apperantly can form sludge that can damage catalyst?). They often have lower chloride level, so are “better” for the environment and do not wear as much as regular oils. Then again, every oil looses the “cold-start” viscosity very quickly, so you should change oil and filter together twice a year. People who drive short distances and rarely, should you synthetic oils most of the time, in winter 0W or 5W. Otherwise, it doesn’t really matter as long as you change oil frequently. On “all-season” oils, they suck form one point of view. Winter oil should be 0W or 5W form most people, and summer should have higher viscosity for hot weather. Change oil according to season and you should be fine with either regular or synthetic. I would go for synthetic, because I don’t drive a lot.
Basically, synthetic oils are regular oils, without most of the “bad” things in them, that are not needed in the first place. Sure, this would make a huge difference for “heavy duty” engines or aircrafts, but for day-to-day cars, it doesn’t.
Synthetics are more expensive due to being modified more than others. This takes time and someone has to get paid for it, right?
I’ve never seen synthetic oil with 15 viscosity or “mineral” with 5. So how do you compare those two? I’m from UK and basically that is the only “mark” to go by, when standard person goes to buy oil. They will just tell her, “you need a mineral oil”,or synthetic. You can choose brand, like Mobil1 or Castrol, but that’s it.
I’ve never seen synthetic oil with 15 viscosity or “mineral” with 5. So how do you compare those two? I’m from UK and basically that is the only “mark” to go by, when standard person goes to buy oil. They will just tell her, “you need a mineral oil”,or synthetic. You can choose brand, like Mobil1 or Castrol, but that’s it.
In the video, there are 2 oils, both with 5W30, so both are synthetic? That doesn’t make any sense. As far as oils go, my car is supposed to run on synthetic 3W30 in it, but it currently has 10W40 semi synthetic in it. Most of technicians in my country of origin say, that if the car was build for sythetics, you should change it to semi after 5-6 years, even if there are no signs to prove it’s needed. Should it still be changed or left as it is?
Mineral and synth won’t really mix, but semi and full should i guess.
Should the engine be cleaned first, or will the sludge left mix with new oil of different grade? It’s a diesel engine, quite loud if you ask me, especially around 1500-2000 rpm, like half of the engine is idle to that point and turns on in the middle. It’s probably oil or timing chain, but may it be due to loose parts, meaning the oil is too thin or too thick?
Edited, that’s like my second forum ever, don’t really know how to behave
In the video, there are 2 oils, both with 5W30, so both are synthetic? That doesn’t make any sense. As far as oils go, my car is supposed to run on synthetic 3W30 in it, but it currently has 10W40 semi synthetic in it. Most of technicians in my country of origin say, that if the car was build for sythetics, you should change it to semi after 5-6 years, even if there are no signs to prove it’s needed. Should it still be changed or left as it is?
Mineral and synth won’t really mix, but semi and full should i guess.
Should the engine be cleaned first, or will the sludge left mix with new oil of different grade? It’s a diesel engine, quite loud if you ask me, especially around 1500-2000 rpm, like half of the engine is idle to that point and turns on in the middle. It’s probably oil or timing chain, but may it be due to loose parts, meaning the oil is too thin or too thick?
Edited, that’s like my second forum ever, don’t really know how to behave
I would like to know, what do you mean by “regular” oil. From what I was told by people, there are Synthetic oils, Semi-Synthetic oils and Mineral Oils. The go from SYNT- “water like” to Mineral with high density. SYNT oils have like 0W30, 0W40, 5W30 and so on, Semi Synthetics start with 10 and minerals with 15. So what is the “regular”?
I would like to know, what do you mean by “regular” oil. From what I was told by people, there are Synthetic oils, Semi-Synthetic oils and Mineral Oils. The go from SYNT- “water like” to Mineral with high density. SYNT oils have like 0W30, 0W40, 5W30 and so on, Semi Synthetics start with 10 and minerals with 15. So what is the “regular”?
Well I don’t have a torch … 🙂 There is another thing, this bolt is in such state, that I can’t even tell where the head is. I’ll try to “rent a torch” or something.
Well I don’t have a torch … 🙂 There is another thing, this bolt is in such state, that I can’t even tell where the head is. I’ll try to “rent a torch” or something.
It’s often referred to as “Brake Calliper Carrier” in UK, but nevermind that. My best bet will probably be to cut the bolt and try to get the screw out. I’ll buy the braket and calipers anyway, so to get them new and I’ll clean them every 6 months or so, to keep them clean 🙂 This bolt has thread lock on them and was there 10 years straight. I’ts pretty much welded to the rest.
Thanks for the reply.
It’s often referred to as “Brake Calliper Carrier” in UK, but nevermind that. My best bet will probably be to cut the bolt and try to get the screw out. I’ll buy the braket and calipers anyway, so to get them new and I’ll clean them every 6 months or so, to keep them clean 🙂 This bolt has thread lock on them and was there 10 years straight. I’ts pretty much welded to the rest.
Thanks for the reply.
The slide bolts are fine. I did manage to get the caliper up and remove pads, but to get the disc out, you need to take off the other part on which the caliper is sitting on. These bolts are stuck, E20 Torx socket, the slide pins are hex key 7mm. This is repair questions and I;m asking how to damage something … oh well, they will not move.
The slide bolts are fine. I did manage to get the caliper up and remove pads, but to get the disc out, you need to take off the other part on which the caliper is sitting on. These bolts are stuck, E20 Torx socket, the slide pins are hex key 7mm. This is repair questions and I;m asking how to damage something … oh well, they will not move.