Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
If it’s the heater core, is there an easy way to verify it before tearing the whole dash apart and simply replacing it?
In my opinion, it all depends. I would certainly try JB Weld with the caveat that it may not hold. You’re likely in for a new radiator, but if you need it to limp along until ______ (fill in the blank), then it’s certainly worth a try. I can’t think of a downside save for the notion of getting crapola in the system itself. If you patch it right, the likelihood is low. Since you need a new radiator anyway….
Collegeman, I can always count on a speedy and sage reply – thanks for that. It turns out that I have a buddy with a sawzall so when I do the project, I’ll have the right tools.
DaFirnz, great links. The Walker web site is a god send, thanks for that. Now I know the dimensions of the stock pieces. I won’t be using a clamp like you suggested, most likely, I will probably use a section of new exhaust to fit over the two pieces (from cat to muffler) and clamp them. That will depend on what shape the inlet of the muffler is in once I clean it up. But that reply helped a lot. Due to the distance of the parts store, and stock issues at a parts store, I like to get all my materials (and alternates) then start the job. I hate having the car on stands and saying “darn, now I have to go back to the parts store” – especially when I’m working alone. So the Walker site was perfect to stack my odds for a successful repair out of the gates. Thanks man.
jahall05, the rest of the exhaust system seems to be in pretty good shape. Little rust – it’s held up surprisingly well. That said, taking it to a shop is not my first choice, rather, a last resort. I appreciate your help though.
Thanks fellas, I truly appreciate the help.
Thanks for the link College Man. It turns out that the factory ships with either of the two sizes (determined from the link). Not sure which to pick, the one that’s on the door, or the one that’s on the car (plus P series). I’ll be obsessing about that for a while…
Any commentary on the squealing?
Same thing happened to my ’98 Grand Cherokee as happened to Petej – the rattling was caused by a failing catalytic converter. That said, it wasn’t a “rumbling” that I could feel as the OP describes, so… your mileage may vary.
Just a follow up note. The radiator cap was terribly worn. I had replaced that cap and solved the boiling problem – thanks for the tips! That said, apparently, the nice tight seal from the new cap exposed a weakened or weakening lower radiator hose fitting. In essence, the place where the lower hose is attached started sprouting a leak. PITA, but ultimately revealed a problem that needed attention. I replaced the radiator, and this issue is a thing of the past.
Thanks for the help folks.
Eric,
If the radiator cap doesn’t solve it, that’ll be the next step. I am not running into an overheat condition, but I do hear the boiling. Here’s a little data point: yesterday, the car was driven for about 45 minutes on the highway, and brought to me. I let it cool down with the hood open for about 10 minutes. Then, in my impatience, I donned my safety goggles, and put a couple of terry towels over the old radiator cap and removed it. Nothing. No spewing, no steam let out. Nothing as I would have expected. So I’m pretty confident that the cap is the culprit.
That said, I DO watch your videos, and will definitely go through step by step if this doesn’t solve the problem.
Eric, thanks for all you do here. Stay dirty.
Eric always advises that one should use exactly what the manufacturer used (and recommends). He said that a lot of thought goes into engineering and components, and it isn’t based on price. I’ve seen many try to get better mileage or life out of their plugs by switching it up (going from copper to platinum), and there’s likely a school of thought that says it doesn’t matter – for my money, looking under the hood and finding what plugs were specified is cheap insurance.
In other words, go with manufacturer suggested plugs. Mine are suggested to be Champion, and it’s difficult to find the exact plug, but I found a cross reference and put in NGK’s.
Your mileage may vary…
The minute that T-Rex suggested the radiator cap, I had a light bulb moment. I had watched Eric’s (2010??) video on coolant issues recently and he had gone into the explanation of the pressure and boiling point, etc. So what a GOOD CALL!
It’s my daughters car, so I don’t have the convenience to check it, rather, have to rely on her reporting, but I did, in fact put a new radiator cap on. The old one was clearly worn, the lower rubber gasket was so brittle, that when I moved it around, it broke off.
I have to wait a couple of days for her report, but thank you T-Rex for the suggestion, I think this will be the solution. And if not, it reminds me to try and find where there may be a leak in the system.
Truly, thanks man.
So just a follow up. I bought some NAPA semi-met pads, I know the guy there and he said they have good luck with this particular series of pads as it relates to squealing, and they were about $40. I replaced the pads, and the squealing has ceased. So “YAY” for quality pads.
I had flushed the brake fluid to try and solve a braking distance problem – it didn’t solve it, but the fluid looked like coffee so it needed to be replaced. But while installing the new pads, I discovered that one of the caliper slide pins had seized in the caliper mounting bracket. I had a pipe wrench and a cheater bar trying to work it loose – I gave up on that and bought a new mounting bracket, slide pins, and boots. Now, I can stop on a dime.
I just thought I’d post the progress and close this one out.
Thanks to all who chimed in (and those who read with some level of interest).
Peace.
Great answer! Thank you. I too have been reading about centric lately. You know for my Jeep, you can get a 4-wheel set of rotors and pads for around $120.
There’s a Napa within walking distance of my house. I know what to do now.
Thanks a ton. I will report back on the squealing after the job is done. Problem is, it’s going to be a couple of Saturday’s from now.
I truly appreciate the candid discussion.
Thanks Cap, I appreciate the reply. The vented rotors issue is now clear in my mind, so I’m grateful.
I’m also SO grateful that someone validation the logic about bleeding – that isn’t to say that I take it as support of not bleeding, but at least my thoughts about it aren’t wonky. So thanks for that.
So next, I have to try and de-glaze the rotors, and find some quality brake pads.In consideration of “best practices”, do you have any recommendations for mid-range semi-metallic pad manufacturers?
Well, I flushed the brake system, it was like coffee. Nice fresh, new fluid. That’s done and I feel moderately better. Still have squealing though. Even though I thought for a moment that flushing might improve either the squealing or pedal travel, it didn’t. Thanks for the suggestion peshewa.
So this means, I have to take a Saturday, and do a full service on the brakes, with replacement semi-metallic as ukrkoz suggests. Yes, I will try to remove any glazing on the rotors with some sandpaper and a battery operated drill. It may not be high enough speed, but it’s what I have. So I’ll do that, re-lube pins, and install new pads. I’ll bleed it thoroughly, as I’ve been lazy in the past.
Which brings me to an important point – so…. why are we bleeding the brakes when we replace pads? Did we introduce air somehow into the system? How? I crimp off the brake line, open the bleeder, squeeze the caliper piston, close the bleeder. Where did air get into the system? I mean, I do it as a matter of course, but this one’s been bugging me.
So now to address ukrkoz‘s suggestion of “break in”. This, my friend, seems to be a controversial issue. Below are three different (and there are many more, I assure you) web sites that all recommend different break in procedures.
http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/how-to-bed-in-brake-pads
http://ebcbrakes.com/articles/how-to-bed-in-your-new-brakes-for-streeturban-driving-2/
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=85So who’s right? 300-500 miles for complete break in with no hard stops? Or 30-40 MPH and rapid quick stops? It seems as though, this too, is a religion.
Where or where is the science in all of this? Is it all anecdotal? Do you just say, “this is what I’ve been doing for years and it’s always worked”?? Why are there different recommendations? Who’s right?
And outside of “air in the system” (cuz there ain’t), what should I be looking at to reduce pedal travel? Booster? Some line that should be tightened?
Btw, there was no commentary on finned v. non-finned rotors.
I truly appreciate everyone chiming in. Right now I’m working on what is the science, and what is anecdotal. I admit, I was poor for a couple of years and bought cheap parts that would keep the car running. Things have changed and the squealing of the brake pads is driving me nuts. I should be able to solve this. Eric’s video’s and commentary say “buy good stuff”. But whose? I’ve seen front brake pads for $80. Is that the deal? Is it always how much they cost?
How do you know the bulb is good? Just curious. You could try to put the bulb from the right side in, just to be sure that it too, fails.
That said, in my Jeep, I had an intermittent rear running light / brake lite issue. The brake light worked, and the running light (when the headlights are turned on) wasn’t working. Turned out to be a faulty/worn left rear module where the electrical connections are made between the bulb and the module. I know guy’s that have fixed them, but I bought a new module and solved the problem.