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When the engine does turn off on its own, does it idle down and sputter to a stop, or is it rapid like you turned the key off?
Would you be able to send photo’s of the ECU board? I can usually see from photo’s if the Mazda B2600i ECU may be the issue.
Here is a crappy, short clip of a lap from August 14, 2015. Lap…10 or so when our 23 car went from second to first as the 44 car lost a tire.
A caution came out for the 44 car, that re-stacked the field. And the 16 car (black Escort with red lettering/numbers) Intentionally took us out in turn 2 on the restart.
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5nv9Vbdj0_o[/video]
Next race was last night. PHEW, what a mess.
This car did FREAKING AWESOME. We added a bit of weight front and rear to the left side, to get a bit more traction on the inside wheels.
We actually made is into first place at lap 10 (of 15) we had a restart and they bunched all the cars up again. We had a…driver that….we’ve all had issues with. such as people give him axles and wheels/tires so he can finish the race..And he ends up taking people out of the race by intentionally wrecking them…Even people that give him parts to race. “Oh, well that’s Racing” NO..It’s NOT. There is a difference between driving around someone, nudging someone, pushing someone and then blatantly wrecking someone. When you’re outside in a turn, and the driver under him even moves DOWN to let him by..He generally will intentionally come DOWN on top of you to wreck you.
Well he did that to us TWICE last night. He folded a wheel nearly in half, because he came down on us instead of just going past. Sent our car to the pits, we got the wheel changed and her back out within a lap or 2. Well he DOES IT AGAIN on the last lap and she pits before the finish line…So we got a DNF…so less points for not actually finishing the race. plus now we’ve got to put more money in the car…He bent the k-frame, radius arm…and probably more we couldn’t see last night. Plus two wheels and tires.
He could EASILY go around people and give them a second or third place win…Rather than giving t hem a last position and/or a DNF…
I was PISSED…I won’t say what happened in the pits after the race, but I’m STILL raging about him. But you’ve got those kinda drivers in all classes everywhere. He’s young and stupid. He could have let us have a first or second place win and he’d STILL be in first place with points. Now we might get bumped to fourth. He’s won almost every race this year with his cheating ways. His whole car is illegal in our class. He knows he’s not the fastest car out there anymore. We pull away from him in the straights, but our driver, she still needs to work on her turns a bit more, she loses a bit of lead in the turns, but drags people behind her in the straights. So if he can’t beat us, wreck us…I guess.
Anyhow..I’ve got a video I shot on my phone I’ll link here for you guys. but I gotta head out this morning to the junkyards to get parts for my new VW Rabbit pickup project. C ya’ll!
Its been a tough season. Not with this car, but the other cars I work with out at the track. Brand new engines being “Broken in” on race night. Transmissions exploding and having to be changed at the track. Rear ends locking up. Wrecks. We had a really bad one this week on my 83 allstars car where he got bumped out of the curve, over the dirt hill and rolled twice about 30 feet down the hill into the ditch. He hopes to be running next week…So I’m busy every night with that one.
Anyhow. How is the little prelude doing? We are well into third place in points. We are 46 points ahead of 4’th and only 16 points from first place in the season.
We got a second place win…We got a couple third place wins. This past week was a 4’th place finish. The top 4 cars running in our class all lap the remaining runners on the track. Its quite a staggering difference in speed between the top 4 and the rest.
Our car has done so well, a couple people have changed cars to a Prelude. One guy went from finishing last in a Dodge Neon every race to finishing first this past race, by changing to a Honda Prelude, the generation newer than ours. Kinda funny how people will change out to an entirely different car to stay competitive in such a low benefit/return class of racing. But it is flattering that people are choosing a car based off of what we are running.
So I think I have some pics for you guys.
Prelude VS Prelude.
Oh hey! Lookit! That’d be me on the right. Driver in the foreground.
[b]Some pics of the 83 car.
Former Glory[/b]
Wrecked.
Driver on the left.
[b]And some of the other cars I work with.
96 Sportsman
Thats a second place win photo shoot.[/b]
23 Allstars
We’re tied for third in points! Pretty much if we just keep making it out to each race, we should make the podium this year. Thats the nice part about this class. Its so unpredictable. All you have to do it stay in the race and make it to every one and you’ll get enough points to stay in. Engines blow up, people get wrecked off the track. It helps to have a good mechanic to keep the car running every race and make emergency repairs to keep the car in the race if something does happen. :silly:
I fixed second gear. The bracket that holds the shift cables to the transmission case has worked free and was just flopping around. A new bolt and two nuts fixed that. I can’t believe it was shifting at all before!
I “fixed” the idle. I tweaked the TPS up a little bit, to keep it from going into “idle loop”. Blocked off the fast idle valve and IACV and cracked open the throttle butterfly to get a stable idle.
This week coming up, we are doing bodywork/welding to the front end. We pulled the frame out and over a bit from the wreck a few weeks ago. We’re adding a bit of bracing up front so that if she rubs someone on the track it doesn’t crumple her front end into a ball. It was so weak before, if she nudges someone, her driveline would just flop out on the ground. It would be hilarious, if I wasn’t the mechanic on the crew.
Next race is the 19’th, unless it rains out.
Still no “ECU Issues” So at least that original problem has been entirely fixed.
As much as I love engine swaps, the Carbed G54 mitsu engine used in the ealier B2600’s isn’t worth the work, even swapping to the EFI turbo Mitsu. Starion engine isn’t worth the work (I’ve done it)
The engine mounts/locations are different between his B2600i Mazda G6 engine and B2600 Mitsu. G54 Also the transmissions are different, with different bellhousings / axle flanges / lengths.
The B2600i 2.6 engine is actually surprisingly potent, compared to the 2.2L Carbed, guttless wounder of the B2200. You will thoroughly enjoy the wonderful low – midrange torque of the 2.6i.
The extent of my work on the F2 2.2 carbed and EFI engines in the B2200’s is remove them, throw them in a scrap heap for someone racing little Super4 race cars. I toss in a Kia Sportage 2.0 FE3 EFI engine. Double the HP/torque and double the fuel mileage with a simple bolt-in engine swap. I’ll never waste my time on a F2 2.2 Mazda engine again.
Before I go ahead and have you send me your ECU:
Have you checked the camshaft timing?
Have you made sure your distributor is clocked correctly?
Do you have an “RPM” scale on a digital volt meter? You can test to see if your distributor is outputting the RPM signals for the ECU. (Ne signal and G signal: probe the pink and yellow/blue wires individually to test each *Don’t probe them together*)
Check for power/ground at the ECU:
Connector 1: 22 pin
Connector 2: 26 pin
* Connector 1, pin I – Ignition power (black/white)
* Connector 1, pin A – Hot at all times (blue/red)
* Connector 1, Pin B – Ignition power from Main relay (black/yellow)
* Connector 2, pins A and B – Ground (black)Keep in mind, your problem may not be completely solved with the ECU. I have a suspicion your previous problems of sputtering and lack of power at WOT is due to a weak/failing fuel pump and/or fuel filter. Fuel filters on these pickups are VERY sensitive to dirt and will cause major running problems once they start to clog up. You may also need to clean your MAF sensor (AND clean the MAF sensor wires/connector) and check for major intake leaks in the intake bellows and hoses. Another common area of a huge vacuum leak is that big black box on the back of the intake pipe that is the intake muffler. Its sealed by a loose-fitting o-ring.
I’ve owned quite a few of these trucks…I’m a Mazda “minitruck” enthusiast. THE #1 cause of this problem is a faulty ECU. I know you said you had it repaired…But I still highly suspect it was not repaired correctly/fully and/or tested before it was sent back to you. This is very common to get a “new” or “repaired” ECU that still won’t work. Because by this time EVERY one of these ECU’s has been “repaired” by someone or are defective. These ECU’s have a 100% failure rate of the capacitors. When they fail, they leak electrolyte onto the board and corrode/break the traces underneath components. So if you don’t check continuity for ALL of the affected traces, it will still not function.
I can offer three solutions to you.
* You can send me your ECU and I’ll repair AND TEST it on a working B2600i I have. (Non Profit – I am not selling a service on the forum)
* I can send you a spare ECU for testing purposes and you send it back. (I need to double check to make sure I still have one)
* You can post up close, high resolution pictures and I can identify suspect components/traces for you to inspect and repair.I would not continue any further of replacing/adjusting components until we are SURE the ECU is good. I see too many of these poor trucks in the junkyards being picked apart because they just had a bad ECU that was “replaced/repaired” with another defective one.
Sorry I didn’t update this past week. Its been nuts.
I hooked up a smoke machine to the intake and it was leaking heavily at the intake flange at the head. Once I pulled the intake off, I saw that there were sections of the gasket missing and one small area was folded over on itself on the last install, leaving a gap and a section of doubled-over gasket. No wonder it was leaking.
So a new gasket fixed the crazy high idle.
[b][color=#ff0000]So the race last night:
She placed SECOND. Only her fourth race. She was stoked.[/color][/b]Problems:
(~) 1 * The idle doesn’t adjust itself fast enough. She said the engine shut off on her three times in the race during restarts. Even though I have the idle set at about 1100 rpm. Of course anyone that knows these stupid Honda’s; if you idle it too high it will cut fuel to bring the idle back down, so get that hunting idle problem.So, I’m going to go ahead with what I was going to do anyhow and block off the IACV. So I’ll just crack the throttle place open with the stop screw and adjust the TPS for WOT values and make sure its not going into idle loop any more, so I don’t get the hunting idle. Got all that? Good. :woohoo:
I may also block off the fast idle valve, just to make sure that valve doesn’t suddenly decide to open and screw over my mechanically set idle.
(~) 2 * She said she lost second gear. She said she would put in second and it would be like it was in neutral. She also said it was sticking in third. The shift cables and shift forks feel fine with the engine off. She also said she could only get it into second on restarts, when she was stopped completely. So I’m not sure if she’s talking when she is downshifting from third to second, or trying to go from first to second. I asked her if she was double clutching or trying to rev match and she looked at me like I was a purple rabbit…Okay, so I gotta look into that now. :silly:
We don’t race next week, we’ll have plenty of time to work things out for the next race.
Thanks for the support and help! I need it.
Hey, cool! I found a photo of her car on the track. This is from the second race where she had the front end torn out of it. You can see the black ratchet strap under the front, right wheel in the photo! Its just forward of the wheel and under the radius arm. Heehee!
I agree. Please do the responsible thing and buy HID headlight assemblies for your car. Mercedes made these cars with and without HID’s. You can convert your car to HID the correct way VERY easily by just purchasing HID housings and installing them and re-coding your car.
If you install HID’s into your housings now, not only will it not be any better (actually worse light) than you have now, but your car will throw annoying error codes and error messages about your headlights.
For all of these reasons, I refuse to tell you how to install your HID retrofit kit and urge you to purchase HID headlight assemblies for your car.
Sometimes I’ll use a tiny dab of super glue on my middle or index finger to stick the fastener to just to get the fastener in the hole, or just started. Pull your finger off of the fastener carefully with two other fingers holding the fastener and spin it on.
If you can work a bunch of extensions down into a hole, where a fastener is down inside a recess, you can tear a small corner of a paper towel, cover the head of the fastener and stick the paper/fastener into the socket and lower it down into a recess, the paper keeping the fastener inside the socket while you fish it down into its location.
Thats about the only tips I can think of now.
Check these videos for some general CIS troubleshooting and seeing what sensors to take into account and what should be doing what.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yBwVfpPqSRM
The number 1 cause of hard hot starts in a CIS system is a bad fuel accumulator.
It really helps to have a high pressure fuel pressure tester when doing anything on these systems. If you have a pressure tester, you will pinpoint problems like this in just a few moments Vs. testing / replacing components haphazardly.
Well bee screwing with this thing most of today. No solution yet. Still idles right at 3K and will not go down.
I removed the IAC valve and taped over the ports on the manifold.
I removed some other coolant temp activated air valve opposite of the IAC valve and taped over the ports.
I removed and cleaned and reinstalled the idle adjustment screw with a new o-ring and tightened it all the way down (lowest idle speed).
I checked the EGR valve (which has been capped off) and also disconnected and capped the Vac hose to it.
I have checked and re-checked for vacuum leaks.
I pressure tested the intake system with a leakdown tester and tested with soapy water.
I sprayed carb cleaner around any vacuum hoses or intake gaskets and injector seals with the engine running.Everything that controls idle or affects idle has been removed and capped off.
The throttle plate is closed tight (to where it actually sticks closed for now)It HAS to be a vacuum leak. I suppose the next step is to connect a smoke machine to the intake and really get down to it. If I continue to find no vacuum leaks…I’m stumped. unless the manifold is cracked underneath somewhere. Because this did kinda start suddenly. It started as an irregular idle, sometimes high, but I could still get it to come down. Now its high and stays high.
Uh oh. It showed up in front of my garage this morning. “SURPRISE” ….I gotta get that idle working today apparently.
My morning coffee was interrupted with this sight.
Yeah. It looks really fun. I’m considering trying to run a couple practice laps in this car this year if I can. Just to see if my back/body can take the harshness of the rough dirt track. If I think I can do it, I may enter as a driver next year in the stock 4 class (what this car is running now) with a VW Jetta. (MK3 or MK4) I’m fairly certain I can outdrive a lot of the people out there in the stock 4 and super 4. And I can build a 2.0 VW engine and set up a VW really well, plus I have spares for everything.
Langley raceway has an asphalt track, which would be smoother. But I know my body can’t take a wreck into a solid wall. I’m betting I can barely take a hit into another car or the dirt berm, but I believe this to be a better bet for me.
I’ll keep updates flowing.