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Please do not click on the above two links, I got a warning from my antivirus that it leads to a known website for malicious activity.
Please do not click on the above two links, I got a warning from my antivirus that it leads to a known website for malicious activity.
Please do not click on the above two links, I got a warning from my antivirus that it leads to a known website for malicious activity.
Please do not click on the above two links, I got a warning from my antivirus that it leads to a known website for malicious activity.
Hi Eric, sorry it took so long, just got back from overseas to deal with the problem.
Turns out, we were both right. I checked the PCV valve and the new one had become sludged up as well. The hose had traces of sludge, but it’s all clear now. Anyway, I sprayed a little intake cleaner into the lower intake manifold and put a new valve on. That brought the leak down to a trickle, as opposed to it pissing out. Replaced the seals and all seems good now.
Thanks so much man, you’ve already saved me a couple of thousands with you videos and advice!
Hi Eric, sorry it took so long, just got back from overseas to deal with the problem.
Turns out, we were both right. I checked the PCV valve and the new one had become sludged up as well. The hose had traces of sludge, but it’s all clear now. Anyway, I sprayed a little intake cleaner into the lower intake manifold and put a new valve on. That brought the leak down to a trickle, as opposed to it pissing out. Replaced the seals and all seems good now.
Thanks so much man, you’ve already saved me a couple of thousands with you videos and advice!
Alright, thanks Eric, I will. It may take a while though, exams and stuff coming up, so the car stuff has to be put on hold.
Alright, thanks Eric, I will. It may take a while though, exams and stuff coming up, so the car stuff has to be put on hold.
Hi barneyb, I am unsure how exactly the pcv system in my car works, I was looking it up on my car club’s forum and I’ve only found tests to do to see if anything is blocked.
Alright, so, there’s:
1) A breather hose runs from the top of the valve cover and is attached to the housing that the LPG is pumped to before the intake (I’ve got the older mixer system), right before the throttle body. This is at the back of the engine.
2) A blow-by hose that runs from the front to rear valve cover, also at the back of the engine.
3) Lastly, there’s the PCV hose at the front of the engine, connected to the front bank.
Here is a badly illustrated picture. Note, this is not my engine.
The red arrows are just the general direction the hoses run.
The thing that is confusing me is how the air travels around the engine. I’m thinking (or guessing really) fresh air enters the valve cover via the breather hose at the rear bank, goes through the crankcase, carrying the blow-by up to the front bank where the PCV valve is, and is sent into the lower intake manifold from there. So at low rpms, the vacuum in the intake manifold is high, causing low flow of blow-by gases, and at high rpms, there is pressure in the intake manifold and this causes high flow of blow-by gases. I am assuming that the blow-by hose is for engine loads too high for the PCV valve to handle the volume of blow-by produced, thereby sending it back to the rear bank and out through the breather hose to enter the engine via the throttle body.
If this is correct, I can see now, why there wouldn’t a difference in pressure throughout the engine. But then, that leaves me at square one again. Why does it start leaking only after it has reached “operational temperatures”?
Hi barneyb, I am unsure how exactly the pcv system in my car works, I was looking it up on my car club’s forum and I’ve only found tests to do to see if anything is blocked.
Alright, so, there’s:
1) A breather hose runs from the top of the valve cover and is attached to the housing that the LPG is pumped to before the intake (I’ve got the older mixer system), right before the throttle body. This is at the back of the engine.
2) A blow-by hose that runs from the front to rear valve cover, also at the back of the engine.
3) Lastly, there’s the PCV hose at the front of the engine, connected to the front bank.
Here is a badly illustrated picture. Note, this is not my engine.
The red arrows are just the general direction the hoses run.
The thing that is confusing me is how the air travels around the engine. I’m thinking (or guessing really) fresh air enters the valve cover via the breather hose at the rear bank, goes through the crankcase, carrying the blow-by up to the front bank where the PCV valve is, and is sent into the lower intake manifold from there. So at low rpms, the vacuum in the intake manifold is high, causing low flow of blow-by gases, and at high rpms, there is pressure in the intake manifold and this causes high flow of blow-by gases. I am assuming that the blow-by hose is for engine loads too high for the PCV valve to handle the volume of blow-by produced, thereby sending it back to the rear bank and out through the breather hose to enter the engine via the throttle body.
If this is correct, I can see now, why there wouldn’t a difference in pressure throughout the engine. But then, that leaves me at square one again. Why does it start leaking only after it has reached “operational temperatures”?
Hi Eric, thanks for the comeback. I will try and upload a video of the problem, on the off chance that someone else may have the same problem in future.
Well, basically, shortly after the temp gauge goes up to operating temperatures, oil starts pouring out of the rear bank cam seal. It literally looks like it’s pissing out of that seal, colour and all. It used to come out the front bank’s seal as well, but after changing the faulty PCV, this no longer occurs. Am I right, or at least, on the right track that the issue is not a damaged cam seal, but excess pressure in the rear bank that’s forcing oil through?
I have read the article, thanks man, especially the part on the PCV system. I will go check the hoses for blockages first.
Hi Eric, thanks for the comeback. I will try and upload a video of the problem, on the off chance that someone else may have the same problem in future.
Well, basically, shortly after the temp gauge goes up to operating temperatures, oil starts pouring out of the rear bank cam seal. It literally looks like it’s pissing out of that seal, colour and all. It used to come out the front bank’s seal as well, but after changing the faulty PCV, this no longer occurs. Am I right, or at least, on the right track that the issue is not a damaged cam seal, but excess pressure in the rear bank that’s forcing oil through?
I have read the article, thanks man, especially the part on the PCV system. I will go check the hoses for blockages first.
I’m not familiar with that design, but are you saying that there’s an auto tensioner on there, but it was locked up by the bolt, thus not allowing it to tension the belt automatically? I’m a little confused by what you mean.
From what I know, usually they only offer to fix the repair for free, not give you a refund, nor buy you extra parts for insurance, but if there’s already damage there then they’ll probably change all that for you for free, no harm asking, either way.
I’d suggest that you diagnose exactly where and what the problem is (for the coolant leak), before going back to the mechanic. That’ll give you a big advantage, in that you’ll know what’s going on, and they’ll know that you know what’s happening.
I’m not familiar with that design, but are you saying that there’s an auto tensioner on there, but it was locked up by the bolt, thus not allowing it to tension the belt automatically? I’m a little confused by what you mean.
From what I know, usually they only offer to fix the repair for free, not give you a refund, nor buy you extra parts for insurance, but if there’s already damage there then they’ll probably change all that for you for free, no harm asking, either way.
I’d suggest that you diagnose exactly where and what the problem is (for the coolant leak), before going back to the mechanic. That’ll give you a big advantage, in that you’ll know what’s going on, and they’ll know that you know what’s happening.
I wouldn’t worry about it, unless it’s a high performance thing with real tight specifications. I don’t know what mystry oil is, but with frequent oil changes with flushes, you probably wouldn’t need additives yet. I’ve got 190,000, 119,000 and 110,000 miles on my cars and they all look fine on the inside. I run 10w-50 where 10w-30 is specified and all three have never missed a beat, it really depends on your climate. For example, 5w-XX would be too thin for my climate.
If you’re really worried, go to your car’s club forum and ask the people there, they will probably be able to advise you better, but it should be fine, as some others here have already pointed out.